Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM 01453 Watch Review
The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech is inspired by the brand’s first prototype divers’ watch, made for the Royal Italian Navy in 1935. However, as Angus Davies explains, this latest model is a far more sophisticated creation, courtesy of its refined dial and noble case as well as its wonderfully engineered movement, the Panerai P.4100 calibre. Once again, Panerai reimagines a utilitarian object and creates a shining example of horological gentility.
Panerai watch
Back in 1894, when John Barbour made his first wax-coated jackets, his objective was to create highly practical garments suited to country living. The pockets were designed to store cartridges and even game. Originally intended as utilitarian wear, Barbour’s product portfolio now encompasses numerous types of garments. The brand has become beloved by legions of fashionistas around the globe, while still commanding loyalty from the same ‘outdoorsy’ types who brought the brand to prominence.
‘Stretching’ a brand to engage with new audiences is not a new concept. The first Land Rover was sketched to paper in 1947, an idea for an all-purpose utilitarian vehicle. The inaugural model was subsequently unveiled at the Amsterdam Motor Show in 1948. Today, the Land Rover badge graces a collection of luxury vehicles and is a regular sight on city streets. At the same time, the company’s products still have the ability to go almost anywhere.
Likewise, since it decided to enter the civilian watch market in 1992, Panerai, the Italian-Swiss watch brand, has reimagined military issue watches of its past to create a collection of timepieces that firmly reside in the luxury watch segment. Indeed, while the utilitarian practicality of former references has been retained, now there is an extraordinary dose of refinement in evidence.
Panerai – materials, sizes and complications
In recent years, the brand has released new expressions of the Luminor and Radiomir families, encompassing different materials, sizes and complications. However, no paternity tests are needed, the brand DNA is clear to see, albeit the Italianate soundtrack has been slightly amplified, augmenting the overall horological performance.
Panerai Radiomir since 1935
Now, the brand has just unveiled a new take on the Radiomir, the Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM 01453.
The history of the Radiomir dates back to 1935. At the time, the company was based in Florence, creating precision instruments for the Royal Italian Navy, including depth gauges, timing mechanisms and mechanical calculators. Panerai was tasked with producing a prototype divers’ watch for military use. Equipped with a modified Rolex movement, it was endowed with a highly luminescent dial, screw-down crown and screw back, making it ideal for subaquatic use.
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM 01453 – dial and case
Despite the passage of time, the ‘simple’ military-issue two-hander, fitted with wire loop strap attachments, is both practical and handsome. The new Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech shares a familial likeness with the 1935 watch but has clearly been to Swiss finishing school.
The white dial is adorned with a nuanced sun-brushed finish, and the case, measuring 45 mm in diameter, is formed of Panerai Goldtech. This latter material is a gold alloy incorporating copper and platinum that evinces a warm reddish hue and promises improved durability.
The dial features a day and date display at 3 o’clock, has a GMT hand, providing the wearer with the means to see the ‘home hour’, and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock that incorporates an am/pm indication for the GMT function. To the rear of the watch, an exhibition caseback grants sight of the automatic movement and the leap-year indicator. Despite the long inventory of functions, the dial remains uncluttered and simple to read.
Panerai P.1400 calibre – a high complication
However, in my opinion, it’s the movement, the P.1400 calibre, which is the star of the show. In contrast to the comparatively ‘simple’ two-hander mechanism of 1935, this latest Panerai is equipped with a perpetual calendar, widely considered a ‘high complication’. Employing a cam, the mechanism can identify those months with 28, 29, 30 and 31 days and advance to the first of the month as appropriate. It can take into account leap years and, assuming both mainsprings remain sufficiently tensioned (the movement has twin barrels), the date will not require manual correction until 2100.
Panerai P.1400 calibre – other refinements
There are two additional refinements to be found on this movement. Firstly, it employs a micro-rotor to energise the mainsprings, mitigating movement thickness and affording unhindered views of the attractively decorated bridges, etc. Secondly, the Panerai P.4100 calibre is fitted with a variable-inertia balance. This form of regulation, when compared with an index-regulated balance is superior. It is less susceptible to positional influence, can be regulated more precisely and should the watch be subjected to a shock, it is less likely to require remedial regulation.
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM 01453 – closing remarks
The Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM 01453 is a wonderfully considered watch. It incorporates much complexity and is endowed with eminently refined touches such as the sun-brushed dial finish and the glorious reddish-gold housing. However, in common with a Barbour wax-jacket or a Land Rover Defender, the brand’s utilitarian origins and the practicality this confers, remain very much in evidence. Indeed, the PAM 01453 may exhibit good deportment and enunciate its words beautifully, but it is still not afraid of getting its hair wet.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech (PAM01453)
- Case: polished Panerai Goldtech, diameter 45 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, perpetual calendar, leap year, 24H GMT, power reserve, seconds reset
- Movement: P.4100 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 55 jewels, power reserve 3 days
- Strap: brown alligator with trapezoidal Panerai Goldtech pin buckle.
- Price: £35,100 (RRP as of 25.10.2024)