Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323)
Angus Davies, a self-confessed Paneristi, discusses the new Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323) along with other Navy Seals models. In addition, he reflects on the evolution of the brand over the last 10 years or so, examining some of the company’s recent collaborations and innovative marketing ideas.
Panerai catalogue 2011
Much to my wife’s annoyance, I hoard old watch brochures. Recently, I dusted off a Panerai catalogue from 2011 and thumbed its pages. Appraising the various models featured within, I noted most of them were made of 316L stainless steel or titanium. There were some gold case options and a few interesting references in ceramic and ‘brown Panerai Composite’, but nevertheless, steel and titanium reigned supreme. In terms of style choices, the Luminor and Radiomir were the only options available.
At this juncture, I must point out that I’m a Paneristi, a tag used to describe a devotee of the Italian-Swiss firm. Like my fellow obsessives, I find much to covet within the brand’s hefty catalogues, however, I have to concede that back in 2011, the brand’s offering may have been a tad limited.
Jean-Marc Pontroue, CEO of Panerai
In 2016, the luxury marque released the Luminor Due, initially in just two case sizes, 42mm and 45mm. Two years later, in 2018, Panerai released a 38mm reference, a size more likely to appeal to female buyers, an audience the company had previously overlooked. In the same year, Jean-Marc Pontroue was appointed as CEO of Panerai and the brand began expanding its portfolio of models.
The Submersible, first released in 1998 and originally a member of the Luminor collection, became a stand-alone range in 2019. Over the years, Panerai introduced new colours, sizes, designs, and movements. As the number of Submersible references increased, so did the popularity of the model.
Inevitably, the world’s press started to talk more about the company’s enlarged product range and brand awareness grew. Today, Panerai is no longer a maker of niche products, it’s a global luxury brand.
Innovation
In recent times, the luxury marque has repeatedly shown an innovative streak. Whilst respecting its rich heritage, it has been a pioneer, working with new materials and technologies, some of which were new to the watch industry. Indeed, Panerai has indulged horophiles with a breathtaking choice of cutting-edge case options encompassing Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology, Carbotech™️, eSTEEL™️, Fibratech™️, Goldtech™️ , and Platinumtech™️. Each of these materials has its own distinctive appearance and comes with an array of benefits, thereby, once again, engaging with an ever-increasing audience.
Image – Panerai Submersible GMT Carbotech™️ Navy Seals (PAM01324) – Price $20,800 (RRP as of 12.10.2022)
Experiences
While clearly expending much energy on product development, Panerai hasn’t neglected marketing. In recent times, the firm has forged ties with Brabus, Team Luna Rossa, and it continues to work closely with Mike Horn, the famous explorer and adventurer.
Over the last few years, Panerai has also indulged thrill seekers with its ‘experience’ models. These have provided unparalleled adventures, seldom available to the public, at any price. For example, the recently launched Panerai Submersible Forze Speciali Experience Edition (PAM01238) came with an invitation to join Italian Special Forces troops in a series of exercises. 
Image – Panerai Submersible Navy Seals Experience (PAM01325) – Price $57,500 (RRP as of 12.10.2022)
Now, the high-end watch house has forged a relationship with the US Navy SEALs. Unsurprisingly, the marketing-savvy brand has released three new models to coincide with the launch, namely the Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323), the Submersible GMT Carbotech™️ Navy Seals (PAM01324) and the Submersible Navy Seals Experience (PAM01325). The latter watch, as its name suggests, comes with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity:
‘…the Submersible Navy SEALs Experience Edition is limited to only 20 pieces, with each purchaser receiving access to an adventure that will immerse guests in the history of the Navy SEALs and grant rare, first-hand exposure to the rigorous physical, emotional and mental demands of SEAL training. Outfitted in authentic gear, from camouflage tactical uniforms to the MREs (Meals Ready to Eat) that SEALs eat in the field, participants will travel by helicopter and amphibious vehicles to perform exercises by SEa, Land and Air, culminating in the simulation of a historical raid. The experience concludes with a luncheon at the National UDT – Navy SEAL Museum and a commencement ceremony to honor a shared expedition. Every member of the mission will confront and transcend personal limits under the guidance of some of the world’s most tenacious warriors, along with a Panerai instrument created to withstand the most challenging environments imaginable.’
If the above experience wasn’t enough, Panerai has also partnered with Skygolpe, an Italian artist and ‘visionary creative in the digital sphere who will create NFT artworks to be delivered to clients as part of their purchase of the Submersible Navy SEALs Experience Edition.’
It seems there is no end to Panerai’s marketing creativity.
Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323) – the traditionalist’s choice
Despite the high-tech materials and eye-catching styles of the latest generation Panerai watches, the Italian-Swiss firm has not abandoned its tried and trusted classics.
Take the latest Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323), it is endowed with some new details that are unique to the model. However, it also looks quite similar to the Luminor Submersible 1950 (PAM00243) 1000M, featured on page 75 of the previously mentioned 2011 catalogue, and in my opinion, that’s a good thing.
The new Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323) features a sumptuous degradé dial and incorporates various orange and black accents. Light grey in the centre, the dial assumes a darker appearance near its edge. It’s a smidgen less utilitarian than the aforementioned 2011 model, making it appear a bit more luxurious.
The hour and minute hands are partially openworked and generously lumed. The circular indexes of the past make a repeat performance, but the Arabic numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock have been supplanted with slender batons, granting a cleaner look.
A magnifying lens, positioned above 3 o’clock, was a useful feature on the (PAM00243), especially if you struggled with age-related myopia. The (PAM01323) eschews this detail and the resultant appearance looks neater. Panerai has chosen to depict the date values in orange, a small detail, but lovely nonetheless.
Measuring 44mm in diameter and incorporating the P.900 caliber, this new model has a GMT function and features a cross-hair style small seconds display. It’s also fitted with Panerai’s patented crown protection device, albeit in this instance, it’s made of eSTEEL™️.
The stunning Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323) is a highly practical ownership proposition courtesy of its robust construction, automatic movement, impressive water resistance and eminently legible dial. Moreover, the addition of a GMT function makes it especially useful when on terra firma.
But, beyond all practical considerations, this model also brims with Panerai style. Originally intended for military use, the functional details, such as the crown protection device, were adopted for the firm’s civilian models, culminating in the horological vernacular that will forever remain uniquely Panerai.
Panerai for today and beyond
Today, the brand continues to produce watches that resonate with traditionalists like myself. However, in the last 10 years or so, Panerai has also conceived new, avant-garde models that engage with new audiences. In meeting the requirements of both groups, the brand has enjoyed exponential growth and the popularity of its models currently shows no signs of waning. The future has never looked so bright for Panerai devotees and the so-called Paneristi. Bravo!
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Panerai Submersible GMT Navy Seals (PAM01323)
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 44 mm, water resistance 30ATM (300m), sapphire crystal to the front. Solid case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, GMT
- Movement: P.900 caliber; self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 23 jewels, power reserve 3 days, 171 components
- Strap: Caoutchouc black, STD, 24/22, BA. Trapezoidal brushed steel buckle
- Price: $10,100 (RRP as of 12.10.2022)