Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemispheres Retrograde Steel Blue
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemispheres Retrograde Steel Blue features a second timezone and a retrograde calendar, while its design is inspired by the ‘golden ratio’. Carl Eady reveals this model’s numerous refined details.
Introduction
Following his horological studies at the Val-de-Travers watchmaking school in La Chaux-de-Fonds Technicum, Michel Parmigiani set up his own watchmaking workshop in 1976. Through his first company, ‘Mesure et Art Du Temps’, he worked tirelessly on the restoration of the finest mechanical clocks, watches and automata from the great Swiss collections, such as the Patek Philippe Museum and the Château des Monts.
While his days were spent in restoration, Michel used his evenings to fashion his own timepieces, a brave decision at the time as many were predicting that the ‘quartz crisis’ was going to consign mechanical watchmaking to the history books. His perseverance and exceptional talent brought him to the attention of many private collectors. Indeed, in 1980, he was commissioned to work on the prestigious collection of the Sandoz Family Foundation. Pierre Landolt, the President of the foundation, was so impressed with Michel’s craftsmanship that he saw fit to invest in ‘Mesure et art du temps’, becoming a majority shareholder. Later, he would go on to help Michel achieve his ultimate dream, to establish his own watch brand.
The House of Parmigiani Fleurier was created in May 1996, and the first watch to bear Michel Parmigiani’s name was the Toric QP Retrograde. It featured a highly decorative bezel with alternating gadroons and knurling, a stunning feature that has since become one of the brand’s signature elements. However, the follow up to the Toric QP Retrograde, the Kalpa Hebdomadaire proved instrumental to the brand’s success.
The rectangular-shaped ‘Kalpa Hebdomadaire’ took many of its design cues from the unique mathematical phenomenon known as the ‘golden ratio’, a term used to describe how components within art, design and even nature are aesthetically presented to be pleasing to the eye. Represented by the Greek letter phi ‘φ’, and often referred to as the ‘golden proportion’, this has always resonated with Michel Parmigiani and has shaped the design philosophy of his brand.
Parmigiani Fleurier has grown exponentially since those early ventures, partly through organic growth but also through some clever acquisitions, such as the case maker, ‘Les Artisans Boîtiers’, the dial manufacturer, ‘Quadrance et Habillage’ and component manufacturers ‘Atokalpa’ and ‘Elwin’. In 2003, Vaucher Manufacture was founded, producing high-end movements.
Now a full-blown manufacture, the brand is virtually self-sufficient when it comes to making its own timepieces. Furthermore, it has become a leading supplier to the luxury watch industry with its five factories producing a myriad of high quality components. Apart from synthetic rubies and sapphire crystals, all the parts for its watches are produced in-house. The straps are manufactured by Hermès, a logical step given the French Maison is a significant shareholder in Vaucher Manufacture.
Today, Parmigiani Fleurier watches fall into three collections. Inspired by the firm’s inaugural piece, the ‘Kalpa’ models are housed in tonneau shaped cases, while the cases of ‘Tonda’ are round. Lastly, the ‘Toric’ collection embodies the brand’s heritage and spirit. The bezels on these models are enriched with the brand’s distinctive combination of gadroons and knurling. Since the inaugural Toric QP launch in 1999, the collection has proved very popular.
In addition to the recognition and adoration of horological purists, the annual ‘Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’ (GPHG) recognised Parmigiani Fleurier’s contribution to the watchworld. In 2017, the brand picked up two awards. Its ‘Tonda Chronor Anniversaire’ won the Chronograph prize, while in the ‘Travel Time’ category, the ‘Toric Hemispheres Retrograde’, housed in a yellow gold case, was also victorious. Since launching this latter model, equipped with a grained white dial, the Swiss marque has capitalised on its popularity, releasing a rose gold variant with a slate-coloured dial and a stainless-steel version with a black dial. In 2021, at Geneva Watch Days, a new stainless-steel edition was launched, endowed with a stunning blue dial, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemispheres Retrograde Steel Blue. In my opinion, this latter watch is elegant and modern, yet showcases an array of traditional watchmaking skills and it is the focal point of this review.
The dial
A wealth of fine details feature on the dial, as one would expect from a Parmigiani Fleurier timepiece. Firstly, the eye is met with a sea of exceptional guilloché, radiating from the centre. Michel’s adherence to the golden ratio is again evident in the ‘Pomme de Pin’ pattern. Turned by hand on a rose engine lathe, it is designed to mimic the opening of the concentric scales of a pinecone, and has graced the majority of Toric dials since the initial Toric QP Retrograde. It provides a luxurious backdrop to the dial’s key features.
A crescent tipped hand sweeps clockwise 240°, smiling at the base of the dial, pointing to the date and then returning to the 1st at the beginning of each month. Closer inspection reveals it is a parabolic curve rather than a circular scale. The subdials are different sizes too, with the larger aperture at the 12 o’clock position indicating the secondary time zone. It includes a day/night indicator recessed into the eastern side of the subdial. At the six o’clock position sits a ‘small seconds’ indicator, with the ‘home time’ day/night indicator sitting at its centre.
Familiar javelin-shaped hands, as seen on all the Toric pieces, point to the hours and minutes, generously lumed and partially skeletonised. They reach out to a silvered rail track gracing the dial circumference, completing a breathtaking display.
The case
With all great watches, irrespective of which angle they are viewed, there is always something to admire. The case of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemispheres Retrograde Steel Blue provides an appropriate benchmark when it comes to design. Each facet, curve and line contributes to the model’s elegant appearance. Every element sits in concert with the overall composition. The signature knurled bezel is hand finished by cold working the steel into decorative shallow grooves. Designed to mimic the capitals on Doric columns, found in Greek architecture, the bezel is stepped and the case band is rounded. In addition, the sapphire crystal is domed.
The highly polished lugs derive inspiration from the ratios of the Fibonacci sequence, so often witnessed throughout the natural world. Because the lugs are relatively short, it allows the strap to drop close to the wrist, ensuring the watch does not appear too imposing, despite its near 43mm case. To the right, two deeply knurled crowns allow for independent setting of the primary and secondary time zones.
An off-centre pane of sapphire crystal, located to the rear of the watch, is asymmetrically positioned, a necessity due to the movement design. The glazing provides sight of the beautifully finished automatic movement within, the Calibre PF317.
Movement
The self-winding movement upholds the elevated standards of Haute Horlogerie. Côtes de Genève, bevelled bridges, perlage and engraved text, filled with gilt, stand testament to the Swiss brand’s no compromise finishing. The Calibre PF317 features a 22-carat solid gold oscillating weight adorned with a Grain d’Orge guilloché. Assuming the watch is fully wound, the movement will run autonomously for 50 hours.
While the finishing and technical details are impressive, it is the functionality that really sets this watch apart from many of its competitors within the travel watch category. By making the secondary timezone complication completely independent from the ‘local time’, the ‘home time’ can be set precisely, even if the ‘offset’ is 30 or 45 minutes. For example, the time in Kolkata is GMT + 5:30. The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemispheres Retrograde Steel Blue is perfectly suited to such situations, differentiating it from regular GMTs.
Strap
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemispheres Retrograde Steel Blue comes presented on a luxurious ‘Indigo Blue’ Hermès alligator strap. The strap is paired with a stainless-steel folding buckle.
Closing thoughts
Once again, Parmigiani Fleurier has shown it has the technical capability, manufacturing know-how and spirit of innovation necessary to produce an alternative to the ubiquitous GMT. However, even for a man of Michel Parmigiani’s considerable talent and experience, this must have been a significant challenge, particularly in developing a calibre with the ability to decouple the secondary time-zone from the central time. Nevertheless, Michel Parmigiani has overcome any potential obstacles and, in so doing, created a fabulous watch.
From the outset, Michel Parmigiani wanted to create watches that would stand the test of time and outlive their owners. The Toric Hemispheres Retrograde, like all of the Maison’s creations, is designed such that it can be restored in 150 years time. This mindset can be attributed to Michel’s background in restoration. Beyond the exceptional build quality, the design language employed ensures each member of the Toric collection will retain its visual allure for generations to come. Indeed, Parmigiani Fleurier masterfully creates timeless designs.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hemispheres Retrograde Steel Blue
- Reference: PFC901-1020001-300182
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 42.8mm; height 11.9mm; water resistance 3ATM (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; retrograde date; day/night; second time zone
- Movement: PF317; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 Vph (4Hz); 28 jewels; power reserve 50 hours; 316 components.
- Strap: Hermès Indigo Blue alligator strap with steel folding clasp
- Price: 22,000 CHF (RRP as at 25.3.2022)