Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm Watch Review
The Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm perpetuates the horological tradition of making ‘shaped watches’ or ‘form watches’. However, it also embraces modernity with its neoteric dial design, Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet and the contemporary decoration found on the self-winding Manufacture movement, the Calibre Initial. Angus Davies looks to the past before exploring this watch, a product for both now and the future.
Image – Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm
Watches and shapes
Throughout history, clocks and pocket watches have tended to indicate time with a circular dial. Moreover, the cases of most pocket watches have typically echoed the shape of the dial. Roundness has been a horological trend for hundreds of years; a shape that is ergonomic and capable of presenting information in an intelligible format.
Image – Pequignet Concorde 36 mm in steel
Surprisingly, the first wristwatch was not round but oblong-shaped. In 1810, Caroline Murat (1782-1839), Queen of Naples and Napoleon’s younger sister, commissioned Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) to make a wristwatch. Delivered two years later, the watch was slender, featured a thermometer and secured to the wrist with a wristlet formed of hair entwined with gold thread. For many years, men continued carrying pocket watches upon their person, hence avant-garde timepieces of the time were the preserve of women. These feminine creations were executed in a variety of forms with some integrated within necklaces, brooches and snuff boxes.
In 1904, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend and aviation pioneer, Alberto Santos-Dumont. Again, contrary to what you might expect, the watch was square with softly rounded corners. During WWI (1914-1918) men started to embrace the notion of wearing a wristwatch, including military-issue trench watches.
Images above – Pequignet Concorde 36 mm in steel
Later, with the advent of Art Deco, ‘shaped watches’ or ‘form watches’ emerged. They celebrated arcs and lines with much creativity and flair and embraced a variety of styles, including barrel, cushion, lozenge, rectangular, tonneau and tortue. The artistry and inventiveness of this era was boundless, with many styles continuing to proffer eye-appeal to this day.
Pequignet Concorde (2023)
In 2023, wishing to mark its 50th anniversary in style, Pequignet unveiled the Concorde, a watch endowed with a round dial housed within a shaped case. On one hand, this marriage of contrasting forms was a departure from the so-called ‘form watches’ of the past as the dial continued to present time upon the customary circular canvas. However, on the other hand, the shaped torso of the Concorde provided a modern take on the form watches popularised during the Art Deco period.
Images above – Pequignet Concorde 36 mm in steel
Originally executed in steel, the French brand, based in the Franche-Comté region, recently unveiled a new version of the Concorde housed in a case formed of Grade 5 titanium. Without further ado, let’s examine the design and composition of this new timepiece, the Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm.
Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm – dial
A problem that afflicts some shaped watches is that legibility can sometimes be sacrificed on the altar of style; however, there are no such issues with the Concorde Titanium 36 mm. By opting for a circular dialscape, the appearance of the hands and hour markers is not distorted or skewed. Indeed, everything appears harmonious and logically arranged.
Image – Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm
The hour and minute hands are openworked save for the tips which feature luminescent treatment. Formed of black treated steel, the hands embrace a contemporary aesthetic and prove eminently legible. A svelte centre seconds hand, again dressed in black, completes the inventory of functions.
Pequignet has equipped the model with a vertically-brushed grey dial. It serves to complement the black treated hands, bestowing tasteful contrast without impairing readability. Each hour is denoted with a fine black index, while the dial epidermis is fringed with a neat minute track.
Image – Pequignet Manufacture
At the base of the dial, the Manufacture reminds the wearer the watch is a product of France, a rarity within the luxury watch sector.
Image – watchmaker at work within the Pequignet Manufacture
Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm – case
As its names implies, the case and bracelet of this watch are formed of titanium; however, this is not Grade 2 titanium, but costlier Grade 5 titanium. This latter metal is an alloy of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium with miniscule traces of iron and oxygen. Unlike Grade 2 titanium, this superior metal can be polished to a high gleam; however, based on its sandblasted appearance, I suspect Pequignet selected Grade 5 titanium for its strength, one of its many attributes. Indeed, it is lightweight, not liable to corrode, non-magnetic and hypoallergenic.
Due to its hardness, making components from Grade 5 titanium is both challenging and expensive. While the cases of some steel watches are stamped, Grade 5 titanium necessitates using CNC machines, an approach that is more protracted and costly.
Image – Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm
Interestingly, the French marque has applied an ‘anti-finger coating’, a feature that will no doubt appeal to fastidious owners troubled by unwanted digit-residue.
Appraising the design of the Concorde Titanium 36 mm, the bezel unites the circular silhouette of the sapphire crystal with a near-square exterior featuring gently sloping sides. The case middle projects from the bezel, creating a stepped look that follows the contours of the bezel. Meanwhile, the matching bracelet is elaborately formed and includes the brand’s obelisk-shaped links.
Image – Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm
At the centre of the caseback, which is secured with six screws and mirrors the design of the bezel, sits a pane of sapphire crystal, granting sight of the self-winding movement within, the Calibre Initial.
Pequignet Calibre Initial
The modernity of the habillage also extends to the execution of the in-house movement. The Morteau-based Manufacture has embraced sandblasting and anthracite ruthenium coating, imbuing the Calibre Initial with a stealthy, neoteric mien. This approach to decoration also extends to the bidirectional oscillating mass that incorporates a series of arcing apertures, affording partial views of the bridges below.
Image – Pequignet Calibre Initial with anthracite ruthenium coating
Both the oscillating mass and the crown are embellished with the fleurs-de-lys emblem, once again reminding the wearer the watch is made in France. Pulling out the crown allows the wearer to stop the central seconds hand, halting the balance. This feature proves particularly useful when synchronising the watch with a reference clock. Simply push the crown home to awaken the balance and the seconds hand will start to rotate.
Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm – closing remarks
The wristwatch has evolved over many years and continues to do so. For decades the watch industry has chosen to make round timepieces because they are ‘safe’, selling in large numbers. However, if you delve into the history books you will discover fascinating wrist-worn horological creations that fuse art with functionality. Some examples have delivered both beauty and practicality, while other stylish creations have been flawed, proving difficult to live with.
Image – Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm
Pequignet has cleverly fused a circular dial with a shaped case, delivering a sublime fusion of elegance and day-to-day wearability. The Concorde Titanium 36 mm respects watchmaking history, while celebrating modernity with muted tones and contemporary materials. Personally, I found the design of the case and bracelet, coupled with the use of lightweight Grade 5 titanium, delivered a wonderfully cossetting wearer experience.
Lastly, while some stylish products can prove to be devoid of intrinsic quality, Pequignet has equipped the Concorde Titanium 36 mm with an in-house movement, skilfully crafted in its own Manufacture. Like most watch companies, Pequignet procures parts from external specialists; however, it states that ‘all its components are sourced within 80 km of the Manufacture, 72% are French’. The Maison is very proud of its ties to the Franche-Comté region and the country it calls home; the same nation where the very first wristwatch was created.
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Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Pequignet Concorde Titanium 36 mm
- Reference: 9045336
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 36 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds
- Movement: Calibre Initial, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 21 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap – Titanium, fine shotblasting finish and anti-finger coating. Interchangeable Pequignet system with Titanium and stainless steel folding clasp
- Price – €4,800 (RRP as of 16.5.2025)