Perrelet LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE
The Perrelet LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE masterfully displays various indications. With its notable scale, the model proclaims the date and enunciates the ‘local time’ and ‘home time’ free of ambiguity. Moreover, the timepiece honours the work of Abraham Louis Perrelet with its peripheral oscillating mass presented dial side. Angus Davies gets up close and personal with the Perrelet’s latest masterpiece, a watch that delivers a plethora of attributes for a comparatively modest sum.
The name, Abraham Louis Perrelet, will always be synonymous with self-winding movements. Indeed, the invention of the automatic movement is widely attributed to Monsieur Perrelet (1777).
In 1995, Perrelet released the ‘Double Rotor’. In common with other automatic watches, an oscillating weight, positioned to the rear of the watch, harnessed energy from the motion of the wearer’s wrist, thereby tensioning the mainspring. However, where this watch differed from its counterparts was that it also featured a second rotor positioned front of house. While this oscillating weight was connected to the rotor to the rear, serving a functional role, the sight of the front rotor, positioned dial-side, also proved a captivating spectacle.
It was this latter characteristic that led to the creation of the first Turbine models in 2009. Once again, a dial-side rotor arrested the onlooker’s attention, however, unlike the Double Rotor, it didn’t utilise the kinetic energy of this rotor to energise the mainspring. On the contrary, it was solely an aesthetic feature. The rationale for the turbine’s independence was that if it was connected to the barrel, the rotational speed of the turbine would be impaired, marring the turbine’s near-hypnotic performance.
Since the advent of the first Turbine models of 2009, the Swiss brand has explored numerous styles, often placing various dial details behind the turbine’s blades, positioned on a lower level. Once the turbine is in motion, various hidden details come into view. Over the years, Perrelet has explored its creative side, dressing the lower level with a variety of decorations, including skulls, playing cards and a roulette wheel, to name but a few.
Irrespective of the Perrelet model selected, the oscillating weight has always been a fundamental characteristic of the brand. Quite simply, automatic watches are at the heart of this brand’s DNA. Recently, the luxury marque unveiled two new models, the LAB PERIPHERAL 3 HANDS & DATE and the LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE. A few weeks ago, I grasped the opportunity to affix the latter watch to my wrist and examine its composition at close quarters.
The dial
The Perrelet LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE is offered in three dial variants: silver, black or blue. I was provided with the opportunity to wear the blue dial option. Its combination of blue and silver hues proves particularly harmonious and bestows an abundance of eye appeal. Hereafter, I intend to focus primarily on this version of the watch (Ref. A1101/4), albeit most of my comments relate to all three variants.
The hour and minute hands are lined with luminescent fill, feature blunt tips and are expansive. Indeed, the vastness of the hands aids readability. The hour markers resemble isosceles triangles with truncated tips. Again, the Maison has liberally applied luminescent coating to the upper surface of each hour marker. The hands and hour markers collaborate successfully, imparting meaning clearly. However, these hour markers go the extra mile in that they sit on a blue circlet, adjacent the central area of the dial, and project over a silver-toned ‘trottoir’. This play with contrasts and depths delivers a high quotient of style.
A function of getting older is that my eyesight has deteriorated, hence trying to read some watch indications can prove a challenge. However, reading the big date display on the LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE is not a problem. Unlike a ‘regular’ date display, a big date employs two discs which collaborate to impart the prevailing date in a highly legible form.
The central area of the dial features a series of lines running from north to south. A gleaming bevelled edge surrounds this area, creating an efficient means of delineating the lined section from the neighbouring blue circlet. A snailed, silver subdial, located at 6 o’clock, indicates the ‘home time’, while the dominant hour and minute hands articulate the ‘local time’. On the subdial, a small aperture residing at 10:30 serves as a day/night indicator. Everything is eminently logical and ideally suited to the business traveller who needs to juggle life in two separate places. A central sweep seconds hand completes the inventory of functions and converses with the minute track encircling the main dial area.
As previously mentioned, automatic movements are a key aspect of Perrelet’s DNA. The LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE upholds the brand’s predilection for self-winding movements. The arc-shaped mass is circular grained and adorned with a grooved motif. It sits in a silver-toned channel, termed a trottoir. This oscillating mass occupies approximately 50% of the channel and is designed to energise the spring barrel. Unlike some of this model’s siblings, where the oscillating weight is positioned to the front purely for aesthetic reasons, the rotor on this model is primarily functional. However, the spectacle of the rotor moving back and forth proves fascinating to behold.
The case
Measuring 42mm x 42mm, the cushion shape case sidesteps the ubiquitous round housing. In fact, the profile of the Perrelet LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE is very complex. For example, the faceted lugs project outwards from the case middle and uphold the house style, namely, large with sharp angles. The case is nipped in at the waist, while the case band is adorned with a series of rectangular sections. Adjacent the bezel, the upper section of the case varies in width and is endowed with a faceted edge. Put simply, the intricacy of this model’s case cannot be overstated. Indeed, consistent with many aspects of this watch, its creation is the result of prolonged consideration and complicated manufacturing.
Another feature includes the intricately shaped crown, which is a fusion of round and square forms. Furthermore, the brand’s ‘P’ logo is presented in relief on the crown’s flank.
To the rear of the watch, six screws secure the caseback in position. At the centre of the caseback, a pane of sapphire crystal confers views of the Manufacture Perrelet P-421 caliber. A ring, marked with various text, encircles the movement, declaring the model’s country of origin, reference number and the maximum water resistance of the watch.
Perrelet supplies the watch on a blue calf leather strap, enlivened with crisp, chaste-white stitching. Affixing the timepiece to the wrist and then subsequently removing it proves a user-friendly affair, courtesy of the LAB’s steel folding clasp.
The movement
Located at the heart of the Perrelet LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE is the Manufacture Perrelet P-421 caliber. The Swiss marque belongs to a large group which includes the movement specialist, Soprod. The expertise of both Perrelet and its sibling, Soprod, cannot be overstated, something which is evident when appraising the movement.
At first glance, the Perrelet P-421 caliber resembles a hand-wound movement, seemingly eschewing an oscillating mass. The result is there is nothing impairing the view of the bridges, ratchet wheel and regulating organ. However, as I mentioned earlier, the oscillating mass, or peripheral rotor, is positioned adjacent the minute track to the front of the watch. Thereby, Perrelet has cleared the decks, allowing the wearer to immerse themselves in a world of finely decorated movement components.
The four rhodium plated bridges, positioned to the rear, are embellished with traditional Côtes de Genève motif. Two of these bridges are engraved with golden text. Adjacent the regulating organ, a sea of perlage can be seen gracing the mainplate, while the ratchet wheel is decorated with a sunray pattern.
Finally, the balance has a frequency of 28,800 Vph (4Hz) and the movement features 30 jewels. Assuming the watch is fully wound, it will run autonomously for 42 hours.
Closing remarks
The name Perrelet immediately evokes thoughts of the firm’s Turbine models. The success of these watches should be applauded, however, the Swiss firm does offer a varied portfolio, including the new LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE. While I suspect some horophiles will admire both genres of watch, this latest timepiece will undoubtedly attract new admirers to the brand.
The dial is fascinating with numerous textures, depths, colours and lines all conspiring to seduce the onlooker. The case’s torso is multi-faceted and beautifully honed. Perrelet’s attention to detail proves very impressive. Personally, I am fond of the hour markers and the way they cantilever over the trottoir. Likewise, the sight of the oscillating weight rotating, performing its important role, is yet another exquisite detail.
Moreover, perhaps as a consequence of my age-related myopia, I appreciate the large format hands, the widescreen date and the legible second time zone display. The fact is, with this watch, no bifocals are required as the readability of this display is beyond reproach.
Perrelet has clearly expended time and incurred much expense, crafting the dial, case and sumptuous movement, yet the asking price remains a modest 4,980 CHF (RRP as at 2.12.2021). It seems that Perrelet should not just be thought of purely for its historical ties with the self-winding movement or its flamboyant Turbine models. Indeed, it should also be held in high esteem for the remarkable quality-price ratio the brand seems most adept at delivering.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Perrelet LAB PERIPHERAL DUAL TIME BIG DATE.
- Reference: A1101/4
- Case: Polished stainless steel; dimensions 42mm x 42mm; height 13.51mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes; central sweep seconds; big date; second time zone with day-night indicator at 6 o’clock
- Movement: Perrelet P-421-caliber; self-winding movement; power reserve = 42 hours
- Strap: Blue calf leather strap with white stitching. Presented on a stainless steel folding clasp
- Price: 4,980 CHF (RRP as at 2.12.2021)