Perrelet Turbine Carbon Black Edition
The Perrelet Turbine Carbon Black Edition encompasses a plethora of inky black tones and embodies an understated, softly spoken character. It is housed in a discreet polycarbonate and carbon fibre case and is fitted with a COSC-certified in-house movement. Angus Davies explains why this watch provides a welcome escape from today’s selfie-obsessed world.
Today’s society seems to record everything on smartphones. Cars, drinks, food, shoes…. the list is endless. It seems nothing is off limits. However, one subject matter eclipses all others; the ‘selfie’.
We now live in a selfie-obsessed world. No self-respecting teenager would dare eat a meal without recording the event on their smartphone. Nothing is spontaneous, the hair is religiously brushed before any snap is taken, the head is always tilted to the optimum angle and everyone knows that performing the perfect pout will always attract a few extra likes on Instawhy.
Thankfully not everyone wishes to reveal their inner celebrity. Some individuals prefer to live beneath the radar, savouring the taste of food rather than fussing over which filter to choose while their bowl of pasta goes cold.
The Perrelet Turbine Carbon Black Edition is deliberately understated. By employing subtle shades of black throughout, this watch doesn’t crave attention or boast to an imagined audience. On the contrary, the new Carbon Black Edition expresses luxury in seemly, measured tones.
Where it all began
Abraham-Louis Perrelet (1729-1826) invented the automatic movement in 1777. The eponymous watch brand has frequently celebrated this invention, fitting the mechanism within numerous models.
In 1995, the Maison created a double rotor calibre, featuring an oscillating mass to the rear of the watch with an additional mass positioned at the centre of the dial. Both rotors harnessed the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist, collectively energising the mainspring.
The Perrelet Turbine (2009)
The Perrelet Turbine was unveiled in 2009. It was contemporary in style and, once again, featured an automatic movement. The rotor to the rear was connected to the barrel, as is the norm with a self-winding movement, while a ‘turbine’, positioned front of house, doffed its hat to the 1995 double rotor calibre.
However, the Turbine differed radically from its forebears or, indeed, anything else on the market. This propellor-like piece of aluminium was not connected to the barrel as this would slow its rotational speed. On this occasion, the turbine was designed to rotate with notable alacrity, twirling with just the merest suggestion of wrist motion. When the turbine was stationary, the small gaps located in between its 12 aluminium blades would reveal soupçons of detail adorning the sub-dial below. However, once the turbine was in flight, the blades seemingly disappeared revealing the sub-dial in its entirety.
Evolution
Over the years, Perrelet has exercised its artistic bent, producing an array of models with the sub-dial dressed in a variety of colours, characters and motifs.
Given the popularity of the 2009 model, the Swiss marque went on to produce the Turbine Chrono (2013), the ‘Turbillon’ (a tourbillon model) and Turbine Pilot (2014). Ultimately, in the spirit of continuous improvement, the Swiss marque revisited the original Turbine and released the aptly named Turbine Evo (2019).
The Turbine Evo featured an updated design, a new in-house movement, the calibre P-331-MH, a new bracelet (where applicable) and COSC certification.
Perrelet Turbine Carbon Black Edition – the dial
This latest Turbine model is equipped with luminescent black hour and minute hands which are generously proportioned, aiding readability. The indexes, comprising Arabic numerals and batons are positioned on an upper track. Once again, the notable scale of the indexes confers ease of read-off.
A slender central sweep seconds hand kisses the minute track dwelling in the outer reaches of the display. Unlike other members of the Perrelet Turbine collection, the Carbon Black Edition eschews colour, employing black tones throughout. This tone-on-tone appearance will inevitably cause some observers to question the rationale for having a turbine. Quite simply, when the blades rotate there is a subtle play with light and a rare ethereal beauty. Indeed, the Carbon Black Edition doesn’t crassly pout, instead its eyes twinkle and its smile is subtle, almost enigmatic.
Perrelet Turbine Carbon Black Edition – the case
Measuring 44mm in diameter, the case is composed of polycarbonate and carbon fibre. This blend of materials proves light and strong. Furthermore, it is resistant to chemical agents and unaffected by changes in temperature. But most of all, it has a unique appearance endowed with subtle tonal variations of black. Not a hint of gleam to be found, just muted shades, coalescing in tasteful concert.
The matte black bezel, along with the matching caseback, are formed of PVD-coated steel. These components contrast with the case middle, delivering a slight variation on the stealthy-toned theme. Perrelet also plays with texture by endowing the case middle with a series of furrows.
To the rear of the watch is an exhibition caseback, affording views of the in-house calibre P-331-MH. Lastly, the inky black colourway extends to the strap which is formed of ‘water-resistant black calfskin’, lined with black rubber. The strap is ‘enlivened with grey topstitching’, a chic detail that enriches the model’s overall appearance.
The in-house calibre P-331-MH
As one of six companies operating within a group, Perrelet has a vast quantity of resources at its disposal. This is manifest with the in-house calibre P-331-MH, a self-winding movement with an impressive array of features.
The open-worked oscillating mass allows the wearer to see the beautifully decorated components below. The automatic device bridge is appointed with perlage, while the mainplate is adorned with colimaçon.
As shown previously, Perrelet has a penchant for continuous improvement. In this instance, the Swiss Maison has revisited the escape wheel teeth, improving the surface finish, thereby mitigating friction and, by default, reducing energy consumption. The pallet lever is now fitted with upgraded rubies, delivering superior performance and reliability.
When an automatic watch is fitted with a bi-directional rotor it employs reversers to ensure the rotational power of the oscillating weight is harvested irrespective of its rotational direction. The P-331-MH features a new lubricating system for the reversers, optimising the performance of the winding system. Lastly, the balance wheel is now fitted with a new double-cone Incabloc® shock absorber system, providing additional protection from impacts.
Independent scrutiny
Perrelet has subjected the Turbine Carbon Black Edition to the scrutiny of two independent bodies, culminating in the award of Chronofiable certification and COSC certification.
Chronofiable certification is provided by Laboratoire Dubuis. Developed in the 1970s, it encompasses a raft of tests intended to simulate the effects of wear on components. For example, the time-setting functions are subject to pull, push and rotational forces in order to determine how they’ll perform over an extended period. Other tests look at the influence of heat, shocks and magnetism. The duration of the tests last 21 days, simulating the effects of wear over six months (8 x the test period).
Lastly, Laboratoire Dubuis concludes its raft of tests with ‘Final functions, rate and amplitude test, plus a temperatures test (0°C, 50°C); power reserve, winding rate (automatic movements).’
COSC test movements over a 15-day period, in five different positions and at three different temperatures. During the evaluation period, the rate accuracy must be between -4 and +6 seconds per day in order for the watch to be certified as a ‘chronometer’ by COSC.
Water-resistance
Perrelet perform a number of tests internally including validating the stated water-resistance of the watch. Enhanced water resistance is yet another improvement found on the new Turbine Carbon Black Edition. Whereas previous Turbine models were water resistant to 50m (5ATM), this latest reference is water resistant to 100m (10ATM).
Closing remarks
The Perrelet Turbine Carbon Black Edition joins an extensive collection of models, each designed to deliver readability, wearer comfort, precision and reliability. Over the years,
the Maison has released a vast array of models, some self-effacing in character, others a tad flamboyant. In my personal opinion, the Carbon Black Edition is the finest expression of Turbine ownership to date.
It does not wear a suit of garish clothes, talk louder than other diners in the restaurant or feel compelled to pose in order to attract attention. On the contrary, the Turbine Carbon Black Edition is a refined form of luxury that’s easy to live with. The use of black tones is delightfully nuanced and tastefully understated. Most of all this watch doesn’t feel the need to boast about its many inner qualities, its talents are obvious.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Perrelet Turbine Carbon Black Edition
- Reference: A4065/1
- Case: Case body in polycarbonate and carbon fibre; bezel in stainless steel with black matte PVD coating; diameter 44mm; height 13.82mm; water resistance 10ATM (100m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes; central sweep seconds
- Movement: Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800vph (4Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours
- Strap: Water-resistant black calf leather with grey stitching and rubber lining.
- Price: €4,750 (RRP as of 5.9.2022)