Perrelet Turbine Evo Label Noir Watch Review
The Perrelet Turbine Evo Label Noir is an interesting collaboration between the historical Maison of the 18th century and the Genevan watchmaker and customisation specialist. It unites the legendary Turbine with Label Noir’s mastery of covert hues.
Perrelet Turbine Evo
Perrelet will forever be associated with the self-winding movement, a mechanism invented by the company’s founder, Abraham-Louis Perrelet in 1777. In more recent times, the eponymous firm has engaged with a new generation of watch buyers with its unique Turbine model. Inspired by an oscillating weight, the turbine is composed of 12 blades that freely rotate with subtle wrist motion, delivering a dynamic dial brimming with vitality. An oscillating weight to the rear of the watch energises the mainspring, while the turbine, purely an aesthetic feature, is able to move with great alacrity, free of impediment.
The hands are plump, augmenting readability and the indexes are presented on a static track, partly projecting over the rotating turbine. A sub-level sits beneath the turbine, becoming visible as the blades spin at speed. On some versions of the Turbine, the subdial is brightly coloured or patterned while on models these surfaces are dressed in a variety of stealthy hues.
Label Noir
Now the historic marque has collaborated with Label Noir, an independent Genevan watchmaker, producing a co-branded Turbine model like no other. Label Noir is no stranger to collaborations having previously worked with six other brands including Louis Erard and Maurice Lacroix.
Perrelet Turbine Evo Label Noir limited edition
While Perrelet has shown itself to have an eye for design and a talent for watchmaking, it has clearly recognised that the input of external contributors can sometimes deliver synergistic outcomes. The Genevan specialist company has a penchant for materials and surface treatments. The turbine blades are executed in black ADLC, while the brass subdial has been subjected to an ‘electrocasting’ chemical treatment, imbuing it with a bewitching mottled appearance. This latter surface comes to the fore when the turbine is awakened simply with a subtle movement of the wrist. The central sweep seconds hand is suffused with black tones, a clandestine characteristic the Turbine Evo Label Noir repeats again and again.
ADLC
On this model, the aforementioned plump hands and bold indexes are presented in black Super-LumiNova, readily visible day or night. The hour track is presented in grey, delivering a monochromatic contrast with the numerous black tones. The stainless steel case, measuring 44mm in diameter, is treated with grey ADLC, a design signature of Label Noir. The black strap is leather and incorporates an alligator pattern, echoing the colour of the bezel and crown.
Calibre P-331-MH
While the onlooker’s gaze may be drawn towards the dial and case ensemble, the Perrelet Turbine Evo Label Noir also proffers much mechanical virtue. The in-house automatic calibre P-331-MH features an impressive list of refinements, including rhodium-plated components, satin-brush, colimaçon and perlage. The watch is also a COSC-certified chronometer, independent assurance that it is highly precise.
A limited edition of 50 pieces
The Perrelet Turbine Evo Label Noir perfectly demonstrates the benefits of two independent companies working together and creating something extraordinary. With only 50 pieces planned, the watch is destined to sell out promptly, so laggards be warned!
Further reading
https://www.labelnoirdesign.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Perrelet Turbine Evo Label Noir
- Case: sandblasted stainless steel with grey and black DLC coating, diameter 44mm, water resistance 5ATM (50m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes; central sweep seconds
- Movement: Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours
- Strap: black leather strap with an alligator pattern.
- Price: CHF 4,700 excluding tax (RRP as of 21.11.2022)