Perrelet Turbine Skull Watch Review
The Perrelet Turbine Skull reimagines the age-old ‘Memento Mori’ watch (aka the skull watch), employing the brand’s unique animated dial technology. Angus Davies explores the history of the ‘skull watch’ and the rationale for enjoying life to its fullest, before examining the Swiss Maison’s new and inventive take on the Memento Mori timepiece.
Life’s too short
Life and death are inextricably linked and have dominated human thoughts since time began. A wanted poster bearing the statement, ‘dead or alive’, perfectly illustrates the binary nature of human existence. In youth, when flesh is fresh and limbs are flexible, life seems a plentiful resource; however, with the onset of old age, the Grim Reaper’s silhouette can be seen in the distance, moving ever closer with each passing year. The phrase ‘Memento Mori’, meaning ‘remember you must die’, serves as a reminder that life is precious; after all, eventually we all ‘shuffle off this mortal coil’.
Dia de Los Muertos
In Europe, discussions of mortality seem a tad macabre, but this is not a view shared throughout the world. For example, in Mexico a two-day festival, ‘Dia de Los Muertos’ (the Day of the Dead) is held where the nation’s citizens remember deceased loved ones. On the first day of the festivities, balloons and toys are left on children’s graves, while on the second day, adults are honoured with drinks, food and treasured possessions.
Memento Mori watch
Over the last few years, Memento Mori watches or so-called ‘skull’ watches have become increasingly popular; however, they are not a new phenomenon. The British Science Museum is the custodian of a Memento Mori watch, loaned to it by the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers. Known as the ‘Mary Queen of Scots’ watch, the skull-shaped case is formed of silver and elaborately engraved with religious and mythological scenes, as well as various phrases in Latin. Said to have once belonged to the ill-fated monarch and passed to one of her maids of honour, Mary Seaton, just moments before she was executed, the watch features a dial, accessed by lifting the hinged upper section of the skull.
Carpe diem
Speaking of Latin phrases, the aphorism, ‘carpe diem’, usually translated to ‘seize the day’, wonderfully sums-up the importance of maximising every single precious moment that life presents. Paradoxically, the skull watch celebrates life, reminding its wearer, once again, that time is fleeting, and life should be enjoyed to its fullest.
The skull watch
Once the sentiment underpinning the rationale for skull watches is known, their creation can be appreciated. Nevertheless, for those individuals unfamiliar with the notion of a Memento Mori watch, this form of timepiece may appear sinister or ghoulish. Thankfully, the ingenious minds at Perrelet have conceived a watch that remains inoffensive to non-experts, but with a flick of a wrist, reveals an artistic depiction of a skull, evoking philosophical thoughts about life itself.
Perrelet Turbine concept
Perrelet’s Turbine concept is a unique means of presenting time. Abraham-Louis Perrelet, the brand’s founder is often cited as the inventor of the first self-winding movement. While the Turbine, positioned front of house, does not energise the mainspring (this would inhibit its speed of rotation), the system does doff its hat to Abraham-Louis’s invention.
Comprising 12 anodised aluminium blades, the Turbine sits above a sub-dial. This latter subterranean display is almost hidden from view, save for the tiny glimpses of its surface afforded by the gaps between each blade. Flick the wrist and you will see the turbine burst into life, rotating at dizzying speeds to reveal an increasing amount of the sub-dial below.
Over the years, Perrelet has endowed the sub-dial with an array of colours, motifs and scenes. While the scenes gracing the sub-dial are static, the Turbine plays with the human perception of motion, evoking thoughts of early projectors, termed ‘Zoopraxiscopes’.
Perrelet Turbine Skull dial
On this occasion, the Swiss marque has employed its animated dial concept to create a highly original take on the skull watch. At the centre of the sub-dial is a depiction of a human skull, presented in a silvery hue. Perrelet has replicated each anatomical detail faithfully and depicted the skull in three-dimensional form.
The skull projects from the sub-dial, introducing a delightful play with depths, augmenting the sense of realism. The remaining surfaces of the sub-dial are enlivened with a guilloché motif. Perrelet offers two variants of the Turbine Skull, one with a black sub-dial and a second with a blue sub-dial. The turbine blades are presented in blue or black, matching the selected sub-dial colour.
Upholding Turbine tradition, the hour and minute hands are expansive and lined with white Super-LumiNova, delivering superb readability. The indexes, comprising Arabic numerals for even-numbered hours and batons for odd-numbered values, will be familiar to Turbine-devotees. A red centre seconds hand, complete with openworked counterweight, circumnavigates the dial and rounds out the inventory of functions.
It’s the attention to detail that distinguishes this model as interesting. For example, the indexes are positioned on the flange fringing the display and cantilever over the turbine, accentuating the dial’s multi-layered composition. However, while the Perrelet Turbine Skull is eminently stylish, it still remains highly practical, conferring notable legibility.
Perrelet Turbine Skull case
Measuring 44 mm in diameter, the case of the Turbine Skull is formed of stainless steel. The blue version is presented in naked metal, whereas the black option is dressed in a coat of black PVD. This latter surface treatment imbues the case with a covert vibe. Irrespective of the model selected, the case plays a deferential role to the adjacent display, allowing the turbine and sub-dial combination the opportunity to shine.
While some industry commentators appear fixated on sub-40 mm measurements, readers should focus their attention on how the watch fits the wrist. The Turbine Skull’s lugs do not project far from the dial and ergonomically curve around the wearer’s arm. The result is a watch that feels smaller than its stated diameter would suggest.
By housing the dial and movement within a generously sized case, Perrelet has endowed the watch with a vast, horological vista that affords sufficient room for each dial component to breathe.
The Perrelet Turbine Skull is presented on a colour coordinating calf leather strap, enriched with an alligator pattern, and is paired with a folding clasp. In addition, the watch comes supplied with an additional matching rubber strap, complete with a fastening tool.
Perrelet P-331-MH calibre
To the rear of the case, a pane of sapphire crystal affords sight of the in-house, automatic Perrelet P-331-MH Calibre. Incidentally, the crystal is marked with the XX/99, the unique number assigned to this limited edition (99 pieces in each colour). While the dials of some Perrelet Turbine models could be described as fun, the movements are serious exemplars of watchmaking. Indeed, the Turbine Skull is a COSC-certified chronometer.
Describing itself as the ‘Guarantor of the Swiss watchmaking tradition of precision’, COSC is an independent organisation with testing facilities in Biel/Bienne, Le Locle and Saint-Imier. Billed as ‘the only organisation in Switzerland and the world to achieve chronometer certification on such a scale’, COSC evaluates watches over 15 days for regularity. During this period, the watches are tested at different temperatures and in various positions. To be COSC-certified, the Perrelet Turbine has met the minimum requirements for a balance spring wristwatch (for a movement with ‘a fitting diameter greater than 20 mm or where the fitting surface area is greater than 314 mm²’). For example, the ‘average daily rate’ must be -4 to +6 seconds per day.
Perrelet has also subjected the Turbine Skull to the scrutiny of Laboratoire Dubois and its punishing Chronofiable®️ ageing tests. The purpose of these tests is to accelerate the aging process to ascertain the reliability of the watch. The ageing cycle involves ‘indirect shock, as well as temperature and humidity variations’. The watch is assessed on receipt (functions, rate, amplitude, temperature tests (0° C and 50° C), power reserve and winding rate). After 21 days, simulating 6 months of wear, the watch is once again subjected to the same assessment criteria to ensure it meets the requirements of the Chronofiable®️ certification standard.
Perrelet Turbine Skull – closing remarks
Perrelet has never sought to emulate others, creating watches that stand out from the crowd courtesy of their unique appearance. However, the Swiss marque does not sacrifice practicality, wearability, precision or robustness on the altar of style. Indeed, the firm backs up Turbine ownership with the independent reassurance of COSC and Chronofiable®️ certification.
The notion of a skull watch inevitably polarises opinion. It is fair to say this genre of watch is not for everyone, but on the other hand, it is imbued with a rich history that resonates with many watch aficionados on a philosophical level. The memento mori watch prompts the wearer to consider the meaning of life, its fragility and its transient nature.
Where the Perrelet Turbine Skull stands out from the crowd is that it won’t upset the neighbours with its innocuous appearance, but with a flick of the wrist, its acts as an aide-memoire, urging the wearer to embrace the idea of ‘Carpe Diem’. Quite simply, life’s too short.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Perrelet Turbine Skull
- Reference: A1092/S1
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 44 mm, height 12.65 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours, Chronofiable and COSC-certified
- Strap: blue calf leather strap with alligator pattern with rubber lining and folding buckle in steel. Also supplied with an additional blue rubber strap with fastening tool.
- Price: €4,780 (RRP as of 14.10.2024)
- Limited Edition: 99 pieces
- Model: Perrelet Turbine Skull
- Reference: A1093/S1
- Case: stainless steel with black PVD coating, diameter 44 mm, height 12.65 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds
- Movement: Perrelet in-house calibre P-331-MH, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800vph (4Hz), 25 jewels, power reserve (fully wound) = 42 hours, Chronofiable and COSC-certified
- Strap: black calf leather strap with alligator pattern with rubber lining and folding buckle in steel. Also supplied with an additional black rubber strap with fastening tool.
- Price: €4,980 (RRP as of 14.10.2024)
- Limited Edition: 99 pieces
