Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 Watch Review
The Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 is the third creation by Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Sporting a translucent green Grand Feu dial, the watch is a remarkable expression of Haute Horlogerie. Seemingly simple to the untrained eye, this watch incorporates numerous mechanical refinements and is enriched with peerless finishing. US-based Marcus Henry shares his observations.
Distilled Essence of Watchmaking
There’s something magical about a dynamic duo. Take Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet: each of these exceptional brands carries in its name a fusion of two great minds. Young independent brand Petermann Bédat, founded by Gaël and Florian (respectively), has assumed a heavy mantle by following this tradition, but they’ve proven themselves in every way capable of the task thus far. Petermann Bédat’s previous releases, the Reference 1967, with dead-beat seconds, and Reference 2941, with monopusher chronograph, are beloved by collectors, highly prized for their mechanical charms.
With its latest creation, the gorgeous Reference 1825, Petermann Bédat has returned to the very essence of watchmaking. Inspired by vintage pocket watches and crafted with much finesse, the Reference 1825 sparkles in the light like a precious gem. Indeed, this just might be their best creation to date.
Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 – dial
Like a jewel in its setting, the emerald green dial sits within a magnificent gold frame. On first seeing the Reference 1825, the rich dial hues grab your attention and thereafter its fine subtleties hold it in its tight clasp. As you explore the composition further, rich nuances and fine expressions of craftsmanship seemingly unfold like a blossoming flower.
The complexity and attention to detail are illustrative of the brand’s unwavering quest for excellence. The rich green colour that suffuses the sector dial, reminiscent of a fine Colombian emerald, is achieved using the traditional artisanal technique of ‘Grand feu’ enamel. A translucent green layer of enamel reveals a laser-textured base and various sectors. The brand’s logo, minute and second tracks are printed, while the golden hour markers are polished and applied. Petermann Bédat plays with texture and colour, with faint lines spanning the hour track.
The Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 is classically styled with details that evoke thoughts of vintage pocket watches. For example, the small seconds dial appears to float just a few millimetres above the minutes track at 6 o’clock. Even the tiny rose gold seconds hand has been beautifully shaped and, in common with the lancine-style gold hour and minute hands, features a highly polished centre. Everything has been refined to the nth degree.
The indices denoting the hours take the form of golden rectangles which prove elegantly discreet and eminently legible. At the cardinal points, double-digit Arabic numerals nestle between the rails of the chemin de fer, succinct and unobtrusive. The hour marker at 12 is comparatively bold, yet it sits harmoniously within the overall composition.
Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 – case
A simple watch case that attains purity in its lines and immaculacy in its construction remains rare. Indeed, a case like this puts most others to shame. Featuring a box sapphire glass, the bezel projects marginally outwards before elegantly swooping downwards and protruding slightly beyond the case middle. This intricate arrangement of lines and curves wonderfully coaxes light, imbuing the case with an almost jewel-like appearance.
Every surface is highly polished, adding an additional quotient of sparkle, and yet nothing appears excessive. Upholding fine watchmaking practise, the lugs are discrete components that are soldered to the case. This approach allows the brand to endue the lugs with remarkably crisp, polished edges. The lugs step away from the case, augmenting the sense of elegance.
Measuring 38 mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.15 mm, the dimensions are on point. They will suit the majority of wrists and should remain immune to changing fashions. The lugs sharply curve, flowing downwards, promising to cosset the wrist with an ergonomic hug.
Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 – calibre 233
The Reference 1825 may be less complicated than Petermann Bédat’s other models, but its execution is clearly the product of much thought. Seemingly simple, it is anything but. The Maison has considered every movement component in forensic detail, respecting watchmaking traditions while infusing the calibre 233 with its own, unique personality.
Petermann Bédat states the calibre 233 was ‘imagined, designed and adjusted by the watchmakers themselves’. They have chosen to make the bridges and mainplate from German silver (maillechort), an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc. The material is harder than brass and is not liable to corrode, hence obviating the need for plating. However, it does require special handling by the watchmaker; an absent-minded touch of a bridge with an exposed finger will leave a trace that will eventually develop into an unsightly mark. The hardness of the material also makes it more challenging to polish.
A central bell-shaped steel bridge supports the centre wheel. Its symmetrical appearance confers a becoming harmony, a characteristic that is manifest throughout the movement. The openwoked bell-shaped bridge indulges horological voyeurs with views of the centre wheel. The Maison has endowed each remaining bridge with a gloriously sculpted profile, once again, charmingly interacting with light.
The balance within the calibre 233 has a cadence of 2.5 Hz, a frequency typically found with classical pocket watches. Each aspect of this movement has been carefully considered. Usually, the gear train within most watches is formed of brass. However, the wheels within the calibre 233 are solid gold, a first for the Maison. This approach confers two obvious benefits: it mitigates friction and gold won’t oxidise. It seems Petermann Bédat has done everything to imbue the Reference 1825 with a notable degree of longevity. An additional refinement includes the presence of oversized ruby bearings which reside in polished sinks. Likewise, the screws, with polished slots and chamfered rims, also reside in polished sinks.
Petermann Bédat has equipped the movement with a traditional swan-neck, paying tribute to historical pocket watches of yesteryear. However, the swan-neck serves purely an aesthetic role. The Maison has equipped the calibre 233 with a variable-inertia balance where the rate is adjusted using inertia weights affixed to the balance wheel. When contrasted with an index-regulated balance, the variable-inertia balance can be set more precisely and should the watch be subjected to a minor shock, the rate is less likely to require remedial regulation. Moreover, a variable-inertia balance is less susceptible to positional influence. The independent brand has gone further by placing the inertia weights inboard, endowing the balance wheel with a smooth exterior, thereby mitigating air turbulence that could adversely affect precision.
The calibre 233 also features a Breguet overcoil. This involves upraising the outer coil of the balance spring and reducing its curvature. By endowing the balance spring with a Breguet overcoil, it will develop concentrically, thereby enhancing isochronism.
This beautiful expression of Haute Horlogerie is exquisitely finished. The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève and feature beautiful hand-polished chamfers (anglage), the mainplate is decorated with sun graining and perlage. All steel parts are bevelled, polished and black polished by hand. The gear train wheels are circular grained and incorporate hand-bevelled polished arms. Even the barrel and ratchet wheel have been enriched with snail graining. Everything is refined to the highest standard and the movement is nothing short of stunning.
Closing remarks
It’s nearly impossible to keep up with the endless number of dress watches that constantly appear on news feeds from independents and established brands alike. However, the Petermann Bédat Reference 1825 is rare, cutting through the noise. The beautifully crafted movement puts finishing in its place, accentuating the beauty of its considered architecture rather than being a repository of various finishes. In the same manner, this piece is best appreciated as one beautiful, cohesive whole, sparkling with a jewel-like radiance, with each element working in concert.
Further reading
Technical Specification
- Model: Petermann Bédat ref. 1825
- Case: rose gold, diameter 38 mm, height 10.15 mm without crystal, sapphire box crystal with AR coating, exhibition caseback
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre 233, hand-wound movement, frequency 18,800 vph (4 Hz), 21 jewels, power reserve of 56 hours
- Strap: brown leather strap with rose gold buckle
- Price: CHF 75,000 excluding VAT (RRP as of 12.12.2025)
- Limited by production (2026-2029)