Reservoir x Telos Only Watch Tiefenmesser Tourbillon Review
The Reservoir x Telos Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon is a collaborative creation masterminded by the Parisian watch brand and its strategic partner, Telos. US-based Meehna Goldsmith looks at this pièce unique created for the biennial charity auction.
Only Watch 2023 – a mouthwatering prospect for horophiles
There’s palpable electricity in the air when the Only Watch auction comes around. You can feel the pulse of horophiles elevate as they eagerly await the unique pieces set to go up on the auction block, raising vital funds for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD). The biennial event, on this occasion, takes place on the 5th of November 2023 at the Palexpo in Geneva. Only Watch showcases over 60 timepieces, demonstrating the participating brands’ imagination and technique.
Reservoir x Telos – a co-created movement
In honour of the event, the independent brand Reservoir has thrown its hat in the ring with the Tiefenmesser (depth gauge) Tourbillon. Co-created with movement constructor extraordinaire Telos, the model marks the first watch in Reservoir’s collection to feature an in-house tourbillon. If you don’t recognise the company name Telos or its wunderkind watchmakers, Franck Orny and Johnny Girardin, then you will definitely be familiar with their work. Some creations include the Harry Winston Opus 14, Montblanc TimeWriter 1 Metamorphosis, Beauregard Dahlia C1, and Corum Bubble 47 Central Tourbillon, among others.
Jumping hours and retrograde minutes
At their core, Reservoir watches are timing instruments reminiscent of the past. They’re functional pieces that reflect the aesthetics of counters, manometers and gauges seen in the automobile, aeronautics and marine industries. Following in the footsteps of the brand’s DNA, the nautically inspired Tiefenmesser Tourbillon features a crisp dial with jumping hours shown at 6 o’clock and retrograde minutes arcing through the remaining 240°. Rather than lacquer, the dial is composed of enamel conferring a vintage and luxurious feel. With another nod to tradition, the minutes hand is coloured blue.
Reservoir x Telos Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon – inspired by a depth gauge
In its construction and layout, the Tiefenmesser Tourbillon references the tool used to measure depth in ships and submarines during the early 20th century. The 43 mm case is made from bronze, while the dial emulates the appearance of a depth gauge. Bronze was and remains an alloy used in the marine world, used for propellors, hulls, nuts, bearings and screws, due to its resistance to corrosion and metal fatigue.
Reservoir x Telos Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon – double barrel
While the dial presides over the top half of the canvas, a large tourbillon anchors the piece at the depths of the display. Completing one revolution every 60 seconds, the diameter of the tourbillon is huge. Although the tourbillon could serve as a seconds display, the design shuns a hand. Instead, it incorporates the brand’s logo, which appropriately gives it a resemblance to a submarine propellor. Driven by a double barrel, the tourbillon beats at a rate of 4 Hz, providing the Tiefenmesser Tourbillon with a prodigious power reserve of 60 hours.
Reservoir x Telos Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon – NAC coating
The dial and tourbillon secure to a handsome anthracite grey plate, providing a nice backdrop that also augments readability. The plate is bead-blasted and then finished with an NAC coating. Even the coating is a thoughtful choice, a detail that fits with the functional nature of the piece. NAC is seamless, durable as well as resistant to petroleum-based chemicals, hydrocarbons and other caustic substances. It’s often used for pipelines, tanks and other expensive equipment in order to heighten longevity.
Reservoir x Telos Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon – Chadburns
Through the non-reflective sapphire crystal caseback, the rear of the movement is revealed. The construction and bead-blasted finish are ‘sophisticated industrial’, in line with the nautical theme. In addition, the rotor, composed of tungsten, is engraved in a style emblematic of the Chadburns Telegraph Company, which was established in 1870 and made nautical instruments. The markings include ‘ahead’, ‘astern’ and ‘stop’, along with five engine speeds. To indicate this is a unique piece for Only Watch, the rim of the caseback is engraved, noting the special affiliation.
Reservoir x Telos Only Watch 2023 Edition Tiefenmesser Tourbillon – closing thoughts
The Tiefenmesser Tourbillon comes with a blue alligator leather strap that’s secured with a stainless steel and bronze butterfly deployant clasp. It also includes a luxury wooden display case to show off the piece. However, with its stylish, bold design and smooth functionality, I’m sure the lucky bidder will want to give the Tiefenmesser Tourbillon lots of wrist time.
Further reading
https://www.reservoir-watch.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Reservoir x Telos Only Watch Tiefenmesser Tourbillon
- Reference: RSV03.TF/136.OW
- Case: bronze, diameter 43 mm, sapphire crystal to front and case-back.
- Functions: jumping hours, retrograde minutes, tourbillon
- Movement: double barrel mechanical movement, self-winding, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 46 jewels, 60-hour power reserve, 437 components.
- Strap: blue alligator leather strap paired with a stainless steel and bronze butterfly clasp
- Price: to be auctioned at Only Watch (5.11.2023 – Geneva)