Richard Smith Bespoke
Angus Davies visits Richard Smith Bespoke, the eponymous tailoring firm in Hale, Cheshire. In this enclave of sartorial elegance, Angus looks to procure a shirt for a special occasion and discovers an interesting alternative to Jermyn Street or Savile Row.
The traditional ways of an artisan must never disappear from view or ‘mass manufactured’ will change from a popular choice to the only choice. When I created ESCAPEMENT, one of my objectives was to champion the finest expressions of craftsmanship and the artisans that create perfection on a daily basis. Sadly, some traditions and skills are perilously close to extinction as transient fashions enjoy mass appeal, based purely on mere brand awareness.
As labels are now created which extoll a brand through the imagery of models wearing suits and photographed in wonderful settings, there is a risk that the perception of ‘the best’ is based on the magnitude of marketing budgets, not the obsession for detail as practised by the finest artisans. With fewer young people being attracted to the world of traditional craftsmanship, there is a danger that skills learned over generations could eventually disappear from view.
Thankfully, this is not the case in Cheshire, the home of Richard Smith Bespoke. Owned and operated by Richard Smith, a man who is fanatical about detail and tradition, this establishment masterfully sates the desires of the local cognoscenti. Richard is an enthusiastic exponent of bespoke tailoring and the subtle details that are usually the preserve of Saville Row or Jermyn Street. He produces jackets with functional buttons on the cuffs, silk linings and even a thread behind the buttonhole to retain a boutonniere.
Richard is clearly an accomplished artisan who wishes to be true to the British traditions that are known throughout the world. No marketing hyperbole required, just an artisan at work, tastefully crafting exquisite garments. With many years of experience under his belt, Richard is happy to stamp his own personality on the garments he creates, incorporating small flourishes of detail that augment the pleasure of ownership.
A shirt is needed
An important event on my calendar requires a shirt befitting the moment. Richard makes us both an Espresso and the consultation process begins.
1. Fabric
Firstly, the event is described in detail and notes are jotted down. A brief trip to the rear of the shop and three lengths of Egyptian cotton in various shades of white are brought out for me to appraise. Spoilt for choice, I selected white diagonal twill Dobby 120/2.
2. Collar
I then have to select my preferred type of collar; Windsor, Kent, London and King are just some of the names I recall. The Kent with 2 buttons appealed as it was not as wide as the Windsor and not as narrow as the London.
3. Cuffs
Straight cuff, bevelled cuff, round cuff in either single or double cuff form. Single cuffs could be specified with one buttonhole or two. Decisions, decisions …. I eventually settle on the button bevel with red buttonhole sewing and the ESCAPEMENT monogram in red block lettering. In addition, I selected a red twill cotton 120’s inlay for lining the inside of the cuff.
4. The front of the shirt
I chose a double gusset feature with a red silk ribbon running down the inside of the button gusset.
5. Measuring up
Richard carefully took nine individual body measurements prior to making a pattern.
6. It’s personal
‘ESCAPEMENT’ was to be embroidered on one cuff, a few centimetres above where my watch will reside. A shorter sleeve length on the left arm can be specified to reveal more of a cherished timepiece if desired. A red thread is selected to match one of the three colours of text which form the ESCAPEMENT brand. The same colour thread is repeated for the buttonhole detail on the collar and cuffs. The inside of the collar is trimmed in a white and red diagonal twill cotton 120/2. Red silk ribbon is selected in the same hue as the words ‘FINER THINGS IN LIFE’ which adorn my business cards. A tape measure is wielded around my upper torso, recording the large numbers which alas are accompanied with the words, “The diet starts tomorrow”.
A bespoke shirt
Following a fitting a couple of weeks later, a few subtle tweaks were made. Finally, my bespoke shirt was ready for collection. I was not disappointed. I attended my event as planned, safe in the knowledge that my shirt perfectly fitted my torso and befitted the occasion.
Richard Smith Bespoke contact details
Richard Smith Bespoke Limited
205 Ashley Road
Hale
Altrincham
WA15 9SQ
Tel 0161 928 8200
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