Schofield Bronze Beater B4 Japanese edition
The Schofield Bronze Beater B4 Japanese edition is the latest creation from the independent English-based watch brand. Housed in a 44mm, bronze patinated case, this watch celebrates Japan, its people and its traditions. Indeed, the caseback is engraved with a depiction of a Japanese Daruma doll.
In 2013, I met Giles Ellis for the first time and chatted with him about his watch brand, Schofield. At the time, Giles was keen to speak to journalists about his Signalman DLC GMT watch. In itself, this is common practice within the watch industry. However, Giles was different from the usual suit-clad professionals I often meet. He was casually attired and charmingly unguarded. Indeed, when I asked about the case of his watch, he freely disclosed that it was made in Germany. Likewise, he also pointed out the movement was Swiss in origin, a Soprod A10.
Since he founded Schofield in 2011, Giles has conceived several eye-catching horological creations. Indeed, Giles’ attention to detail and eye for design were just two of his attributes that I noted at the time of our first meeting. Today, he has chosen to focus on the ‘Beater’ model and has enjoyed much success with this affordable three-hander. Presented in a 44mm, bronze patinated case, the housing has a charming aged appearance with slight hints of purple. Plump, brushed gold hour and minute hands, featuring a liberal application of lume, sit above a dial executed in indigo blue.
Surprisingly, the pièce de résistance is the caseback which is heavily engraved with a Japanese-themed motif, said to depict a Daruma doll.
In Japan, there are several dolls or ‘ningyos’ which are strongly linked to the nation’s history. Hina dolls, Bunraku puppets, Gosho dolls, Kokeshi dolls, Kimekomi dolls, etc are just some examples of Japanese dolls. The Daruma dolls date back to the 18th century, feature ample proportions, prominent eyes and are meant to be an abstract representation of Bodhidarma, the founder of Zen Buddhism.
Giles states that he has a ‘love of Japan, its people and their traditions’. Having visited Japan myself, I share Giles’ opinion. Moreover, I adore his original, engraved composition to the rear of the watch.
I totally understand Giles’ rationale for honouring Japan, its incredibly friendly citizens and its artisanal prowess. The Schofield Bronze Beater B4 Japanese edition is an impressive watch, especially considering its modest pricing.
The brand’s press release
The Japanese aesthetic has inspired Schofield’s designs from the beginning. Simple, crafted, understated, showing more by showing less, still. What better place to exaggerate these ideas than with a new Bronze Beater model? The dial is the colour of Indigo dyed Boro, a unique patched and repaired workwear cloth. The case is heavily patinated bronze, the Japanese call patination the grease of life and tend not to remove it by polishing. The case back depicts Daruma-San a traditional Japanese doll. The character on his chest means good luck and these dolls are often given as gifts prior to a challenge or task. The case back engraving also shows a Tokyo drain cover design of ginkgo and cherry blossom. The watch strap is Mudcloth, a tough canvas fixed with plant seeds and mud for six months to achieve this rich colour. A watch built from Giles Ellis’ love of Japan, its people and its traditions. The attention to detail in their crafts, he believes, is unmatched by any other culture.
Limited to 29 pieces
Price is £3280 including VAT (UK / free shipping) or £2733 excluding VAT (US, Canada, Europe ROW + shipping)
THE CASE
Great care is taken over the patination process; the wholly machined and finished British made case is deeply patinated and not burnished back to a brighter finish like our Beater B3 model. The resulting oxide coating is thick and stable with an occasional purple bloom.
DIAL
Classic Schofield in the layout, open and uncluttered designed for legibility, hours at cardinal points including a slash-0 at 12. Darts between the numbers and a minute track bordering precisely the stepped level and colour change in the dial. Using Super- LumiNova C3 with a green emission. Most obvious is the luminescent ring around the outer circumference akin to the original Schofield Blacklamp. The new hand set features a play on the original Sign-of-Life hand found on some Beater models, here it is a counter poise only, indicating time is passing but without the need for to the second time-telling. The hands are brushed gold and match the gold ring in the middle of the crown.
STRAP
Traditional Japanese Mudcloth pale face. The base fabric is initially soaked in a natural mordant made from plant seeds which helps fix the dye to the fabric and prevent fading. The mud is then applied by hand to one side of the fabric which is laid out to dry in the sun. At first the mud is grey but the fabric is then stored inside and over time the colour develops into this warm rust brown colour. It takes 6 months in storage to fix the dye after which it is washed and sun dried once again.
THE BOX
Those who purchase Schofields do so for more reasons than the watch alone – Membership to our Buoys Club, the weekly newsletter; the Six Pips, myriad straps and buckles, pens and other watch-related accessories. The Bronze B4 comes in an ash box affectionately known as the Squat Box. A beautifully made, simple treasure trove with an X marks the spot engraved into the lid. The central watch holding block can be removed making it useful. There is no plastic or foam, instead the watch sits within a milled block of cedar. What’s more, we use an ingenious recycled card packaging in line with our concern for the sea.
ABOUT SCHOFIELD
At the outset Schofield Watch Company was not a commercial venture, but a personal endeavour carried out by one man who wanted to design and build a luxury watch to his own style and requirements. The Company evolved as the project grew in scale. Giles’ obsession with detail ensured that the design process encompassed not only the watches but also the accessories, packaging, graphics, websites, photography, and an endless chorus of variables that go into the creation of something that is made with passion and vision. The Company prides itself on the subtle, understated and precise design behind its products. Within this field Giles has given numerous seminars and talks to universities and businesses. Schofield resides next to the River Adur, a stone’s throw from the sea in the bucolic Sussex countryside
Further reading