Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE Watch Review
The Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE is the very antithesis of ‘conspicuous consumption’. Expertly crafted in the brand’s Manufacture, Villa Sonnenheim, it demonstrates the wisdom of subtlety. The nuanced dial masterfully plays with depth, textures and colours to glorious effect. Moreover, the Manufacture movement features a micro-rotor and is packed with a plethora of attributes.
Fine watchmaking – flavour, textures and colours
Many years ago, when life was black and white, I was a teenager with an insatiable appetite for fat and sugar. My mother excused my gluttony, uttering those immortal words, “He’s a growing lad”. Back then, I considered a platter of burgers, fries and couple of meat pies as a good meal. However, with maturity, my view of the world changed and my tastes evolved. Indeed, I now recognise that fine dining is not about volume but subtleties. Haute cuisine, the finest expression of culinary art, draws on the talents of trained professionals. They select the finest ingredients and expertly prepare dishes with due consideration to flavour, textures and colours.
In the world of watches, bulk, ‘bling’ and overt branding seldom constitute excellence. Instead, refinement is expressed with quality components, watchmaking expertise and elegant styling. A few weeks ago, Schwarz Etienne unveiled the 1902 PETITE SECONDE, a new model that exemplifies this considered approach to fine watchmaking.
Schwarz Etienne depuis 1902
The name of the 1902 PETITE SECONDE refers to the year when Paul Arthur Schwarz and his wife Olga Etienne founded the Maison. Based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking, the company was originally known for being a movement specialist, supplying several esteemed watch brands. Later, Schwarz Etienne applied its amassed know-how to making fine timepieces. The excellence of its models, each equipped with a Manufacture movement, has not gone unnoticed. Indeed, many watch obsessives are drawn to the Swiss marque’s elegant timepieces, appreciating their styling and recognising the mechanical virtuosity within.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE dial
A valuable lesson I learnt early in adulthood is that you don’t need to speak loudly to be heard. Indeed, it’s the words you choose and how you employ them that will determine whether your sentiments are understood. Evidently, when designing the 1902 PETITE SECONDE within its home, Villa Sonnenheim, Schwarz Etienne carefully selected each dial component and finish with great care. The result is a dial that communicates with the wearer clearly and with a high quotient of style.
This new model is offered in a choice of three dial colours: silver, slate-grey and ‘gold 4N colour’. Silver-toned lancine-style hour and minute hands collaborate with polished appliques (indexes) to impart meaning. The hands are faceted with one side of each hand evincing a brilliant gleam while the other dwells in the shadows. This enchanting play of light readily changes with just a tiny twist of the wrist.
A small seconds display resides in the southern region of the dial. A lone hand, devoid of unnecessary adornment, expresses meaning free of ambiguity. The central area of the display is snailed and encircled by a grey chemin de fer, fringed with opaline detail. To delineate the small seconds display from neighbouring areas, the indication is recessed and endowed with diamond-shaped edging.
This masterful play with depths, finishes and contrasting hues is not restricted to merely the small seconds display but extends to the entire dial. The central area of the dial is grained, while the adjacent hour track, positioned on a higher plane, is imbued with a softly spoken opaline finish that plays a deferential role to the all-important hour markers. A grey chemin de fer sits on a lower level, framing the horological vista. Once again, Schwarz Etienne demarcates each level of the dial composition with diamond-shaped edging. The maker’s name is presented in relief, just large enough to be legible but without being overbearing.
Appraising the dial of the Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE, it is evident that each element is the product of prolonged consideration. Indeed, the model is a paragon of understated luxury that talks to the world in measured tones.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE case
The case of the 1902 PETITE SECONDE measures 39 mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.90 mm; dimensions that should suit the majority of would-be wearers, irrespective of their gender.
Interestingly, Schwarz Etienne has selected Grade 5 titanium for the housing of this model. This material should not be confused with cheaper Grade 2 titanium. Composed of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium (there are tiny traces of iron and oxygen as well), Grade 5 titanium is very strong, light, not liable to corrosion and hypoallergenic. So far, so good. However, due to its hardness, the alloy is very challenging to machine. Indeed, CNC tools readily wear out when making cases formed of the alloy, often necessitating early replacement. Both the additional costs of new tools and extra downtime are significant. Moreover, to avoid causing heat-damage to the Grade 5 titanium, milling speeds (CNC) must be reduced, increasing production time and, once more, heightening costs. It is for these reasons that several Haute Horlogerie brands now position Grade 5 titanium alongside traditional noble metals such as gold or platinum.
Like the dial of the 1902 PETITE SECONDE, the housing is also enriched with a combination of polished and satin-finished surfaces. The highly polished bezel features gently sloping sides that eventually meet the case middle and satin-finished lugs. The appearance of the bezel is not overbearing and tastefully co-exists with neighbouring elements.
To the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the ASE 300.00 automatic micro-rotor movement. The caseback features sloping sides with the bulkiest part of the housing (above the movement) nuzzling the fleshy part of the wrist. This may sound like a small detail, but it enhances wearer comfort, something that becomes apparent as soon as you affix the watch to your arm. Moreover, the lugs have been designed to cosset the wrist, which along with the lightweight characteristics of Grade 5 titanium, also contribute to the ergonomic relationship between the watch and wearer.
Schwarz Etienne ASE 300.00 automatic micro-rotor movement
Schwarz Etienne is widely known for making fine watch movements, an attribute that is manifest with the ASE 300.00, a calibre featuring a micro-rotor. In the watchsphere, only a few companies make automatic micro-rotor movements. The technical challenge is to generate sufficient inertia from a small mass that’s capable of energising the mainspring(s). The Swiss marque has repeatedly demonstrated its capacity to meet this requirement, releasing several movements incorporating this rare know-how.
There are two distinct advantages for using a micro-rotor. Firstly, where a conventional full-size oscillating weight sits above the bridges, a micro-rotor sits in a recess, flush with the neighbouring bridges, mitigating movement thickness. In this instance, the ASE 300.00 has a thickness of just 5.35 mm. Secondly, with no bulky oscillating mass marring the view, the wearer is able to readily admire the beautifully decorated movement.
The movement features six bridges, all adorned with Côtes de Genève motif. Four of the curvaceous bridges resemble fingers and evoke thoughts of historic movements of yesteryear. Schwarz Etienne could have opted for a cheaper, simpler construction but instead it has chosen to set aside such financial considerations for the delectation of purists. The bridges feature polished angles with concave chamfers that readily converse with light, accentuating their presence. The micro-rotor is adorned with a chevron motif, a subtle reference to the fir-clad scenery surrounding La Chaux-de-Fonds. The ratchet wheel is adorned with sunburst decoration and each tooth is hand-polished as horological etiquette dictates.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE – closing remarks
With knowledge comes discernment, something Schwarz Etienne has recognised with the creation of this beautifully crafted timepiece. The dial, case and movement are the product of considered thought and much expertise. Wherever you look, you witness a beautiful marriage of materials, textures and colours. Each line and every curve contributes to the harmonious aesthetic. Moreover, the look and execution of the 1902 PETITE SECONDE are likely to confer eye-appeal for decades to come.
Schwarz Etienne has created a horological delicacy that has to be sampled to be fully appreciated. Quite simply, it’s a mouthwatering ownership proposition.
Further reading
https://www.schwarz-etienne.ch
Technical specifications
- Model: Schwarz Etienne 1902 PETITE SECONDE
- Reference: WCL39PSAS16TICUARD (silver coloured dial with black alligator strap with black rubber lining)
- Reference: WCL39PSAS58TICUARD (slate grey dial with black leather strap with black rubber lining)
- Reference: WCL39PSAS34TICUARD (gold 4N coloured dial with brown alligator strap with black rubber lining)
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 39 mm, height 10.90 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre ASE 300.00; automatic movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 86 hours, 191 components.
- Strap: colour-coordinating strap paired with a Grade 5 titanium folding buckle with Schwarz Etienne logo
- Price: CHF 18,000 (RRP as of 10.5.2025)