Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake Watch Review
The Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake unites Swiss engineering with the artistic sensibility of an English watchmaker. The resultant watch, ‘co-authored’ by both parties, is rich in detail, superbly engineered and imbued with many attributes. Angus Davies recently visited Villa Sonnenheim in La Chaux-de-Fonds to view the making of this high-end watch.
When creative talents unite
Looking back over the last 50 years, there have been some extraordinary recording artists who have left their mark on history. Often blessed with natural talent, sometimes possessing an ability to write songs, they have honed their voices and mastered their instruments over many years. These musical legends perform to sell-out concerts attended by thousands and their album sales are often measured in millions. However, despite their inordinate musical virtuosity, several of these artists have chosen to collaborate with others. The rationale is simple: when two creative forces unite, the resultant work can deliver something new or better.
Image – Villa Sonnenheim, home of Schwarz Etienne
Schwarz Etienne, the highly accomplished Swiss Manufacture, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, is no stranger to working with others. While the high-end brand has an extensive portfolio of refined timepieces, including the gorgeous 1902 collection, each reference a solo performance, it has also worked with others to deliver seminal hits.
Image – Villa Sonnenheim, home of Schwarz Etienne
Schwarz Etienne x Kari Voutilainen
In 2020, Schwarz Etienne joined forces with the acclaimed Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, reimagining one of the Swiss brand’s existing models. This ‘co-authored’ watch was equipped with the ASE 200.00, an automatic movement made in-house by Schwarz Etienne. It was also endowed with a glorious hand-guilloché dial, crafted at Voutilainen’s atelier. Kari and his team enriched the movement with an array of finishes, including ‘diamond drops and delicate snailing’ on the micro-rotor and ratchet wheel. Additional refinements included hand-bevelled bridges with straight flanks and a mainplate enriched with perlage. The model was eminently beautiful, but, before its release, one question remained: “What do we call it?” The answer proved inspired – “SYNERGY!”
Image – mainplate on CAD system
The word ‘synergy’ comes from the Greek term ‘synergos’, meaning ‘working together’. It refers to the combined effect of two or more elements, people or organisations producing an outcome greater than the sum of their individual components. It is often shown numerically as 2 + 2 = 5. The ROMA SYNERGY by Kari Voutilainen was Schwarz Etienne’s first ‘co-authored’ model and it proved a resounding success.
Image – mainplate produced using CNC machine
Schwarz Etienne x Peter Speake
Now, the Swiss Manufacture has collaborated with the English master watchmaker Peter Speake to ‘co-author’ the next chapter of the SYNERGY story. Most watch obsessives will be familiar with Peter Speake’s work. He has previously collaborated with Harry Winston, MB&F and Maîtres du Temps. In 2022, he established PS Horology, ‘a brand that creates Swiss timepieces shaped by artistic, cultural and historic influences from around the globe’.
Image – Peter Speake
The industry veteran commenced his watchmaking journey at the tender age of 17, attending Hackney College. Thereafter, he relocated to Switzerland, studying at WOSTEP in Neuchâtel. While Peter has worked in his home nation, he has also spent a significant proportion of his career working in Switzerland, where he has formed relationships with component suppliers, industry specialists and fellow watchmakers. It was during a discussion with Florian Brossard, CEO of Schwarz Etienne, that the men explored the idea of working together on a new creation. The resultant watch, the aptly named Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake, is the distillation of each author’s ideas.
Image – Florian Brossard
Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake – dial
Like the ROMA SYNERGY by Kari Voutilainen, the new co-creation is based on an existing Schwarz Etienne model, the 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE. While the topography of the dial and the movement of both watches share much in common, the combined vision of both parties has imbued the latest SYNERGY reference with a distinctive and wholly new appearance.
Image – detailed drawing showing the construction of the dial
The dial is an intricate arrangement of sapphire elements sat atop a metal base. Described as ‘ice white’, the dial exhibits an off-white shade, tastefully sidestepping the starkness of brilliant white to exhibit a subtle, gentle character. By arranging the sapphire elements as layers, Schwarz Etienne and Peter have created a three-dimensional display that masterfully plays with depths, both aiding interpretation and augmenting eye-appeal.
Dial indications
The prevailing time is indicated with lancine-style hour and minute hands, executed in Prussian blue. These hands are facetted with one side polished and the other satin-finished. Schwarz Etienne has chosen to denote the hours using a combination of Arabic numerals, printed on a sapphire element (see later) and blue appliques. A power-reserve indicator resides between 12:30 and 02:30, showing the available energy within the twin barrels. In terms of available power, meaning is imparted with a serpentine hand, a shape that Peter Speake has employed on several occasions throughout his career. This hand arcs over an expanse of azurage and converses with an arcing track.
A blue chemin-de-fer fringes the dial. Marked with crisp white lines, it also features double-digit Arabic numerals at 5-minute intervals with a neat triangle projecting from the track, pointing inwards. Schwarz Etienne has introduced Cayenne orange rectangular markings that punctuate the chemin de fer at the four cardinal points. This soupçon of fire enlivens the vista with a touch of seemly ebullience. The initials ‘PS’ discreetly nestle upon the chemin de fer, sitting adjacent to the serpentine hand.
Image – power reserve indicator with serpentine hand
The small seconds display features a softly spoken epidermis, subtly adorned with azurage. A fine blue stick-type hand collaborates with a smaller chemin de fer, indicating the running seconds.
Image – small seconds display with azurage
Sapphire elements
Many watch brands employ clear sapphire crystal as a means of glazing a timepiece, selecting the material for its hardness. However, the ice white sapphire crystal dial elements are much finer, in some instances measuring a mere 0.35 mm in thickness. Cutting, drilling and polishing this wafer-thin material presents many technical challenges that must be mastered. Thankfully, Schwarz Etienne has vast experience working with sapphire crystal, a competence it has put to good use with the new SYNERGY.
Image – outer sapphire element with hour track and chemin de fer
The dial plate, formed of brass, is dressed in white lacquer and features said small seconds display. A sapphire element, incorporating the hour track, marked with Arabic numerals and a blue chemin de fer, sits upon the dial plate and features a bevelled edge. A further sapphire element, this time thinner, sits inside the hour track on a lower plane. This arrangement of two juxtaposed sapphire elements creates a delightful, stepped profile and the transferred numerals appear to be suspended beneath the sapphire’s surface. The power-reserve indicator is formed of brass and sits adjacent to an ice white arcing track.
Image – track for power-reserve indicator
As stated earlier, Schwarz Etienne has bevelled the edge of the hour track, which heightens the perception of depth, boosting visual interest. Each sapphire element features a matte white coating on its underside while its upper surface remains clear, endowing the material with an opaque appearance.
Prussian blue elements
The Prussian blue lancine-style hour and minute hands and appliques are coated with blue PVD, whereas the Arabic numerals are printed upon the sapphire element below. Both the serpentine hand and the small seconds are also coated with blue PVD.
Continuing the blue theme, the Manufacture’s name is presented in block capitals, executed in three-dimensional form. This would have proved technically challenging to realise due to the high aspect ratio of the characters, but clearly Schwarz Etienne has surmounted any potential problems. Consistent with the hands, Schwarz Etienne has dressed the letters in blue PVD. The company’s name is affixed to the sapphire element below with a series of feet.
Traditionalists may question why the coated blue elements are not ‘thermally blued’ using a flame. The answer lies in the number of blue elements employed. When a watchmaker heats two or three hands on a bed of copper filings within a small pan, in conjunction with a flame, they can achieve a consistent colour. However, to scale this up to imbue all the hands, appliques and the brand’s name in the same shade of blue is near impossible. By using blue PVD, the Manufacture has protected the material from corrosion while ensuring it exhibits a uniform, becoming tone. Close examination of the hands reveals they are polished on one facet and sandblasted on the other side. The resultant contrast contributes to the overall sense of refinement.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake – case
In 2025, when Schwarz Etienne released the 1902 collection, I commented on the impressive execution of each model’s case. Rather than ‘reinvent the wheel’, the Manufacture has sensibly chosen to use the same case. What makes the execution of the case impressive? Allow me to elaborate.
Grade 5 titanium
The case, measuring 39 mm in diameter, is formed of Grade 5 titanium, not to be confused with cheaper Grade 2 titanium. Whereas Grade 2 is virtually pure titanium (98.9% to 99.2% titanium), Grade 5 is an alloy, comprising 90% titanium, 6% aluminium, 4% vanadium and minuscule traces of iron and oxygen. There are two notable benefits of Grade 5 titanium, namely it’s stronger and it can be polished to a high gleam.
Both grades of titanium are light, corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic. Furthermore, unlike steel, a titanium case doesn’t feel cold when pressed against the skin on a chilly morning. Indeed, the material adapts quickly to the wearer’s temperature, conferring superior wearer comfort.
Producing cases in Grade 5 titanium is technically challenging and expensive. Due to its hardness and low ductility, the alloy cannot be stamped; hence, it must be machined using CNC (Computer Numerical Control), a far costlier process. The hardness of the material causes CNC tools to wear out more readily, necessitating more frequent replacements. The additional downtime incurred and the cost of replacement tools are significant. Moreover, when milling Grade 5 titanium, drilling speeds must be reduced to prevent the metal from becoming damaged or even catching fire.
While the creation of Grade 5 titanium cases is complex and expensive, the tangible advantages of the alloy justify the effort.
Case execution
The case is formed of three parts: the bezel, carrure (case middle) and caseback. Schwarz Etienne could have made life a little easier by endowing all surfaces with one finish; however, by this stage, you will have ascertained that the Swiss marque does not subscribe to ‘easy’ when product excellence is ‘up for grabs’.
Looking at the housing, the bezel, the carrure and the exhibition caseback (the steel adjacent to the sapphire) are all polished to a resplendent gleam. In contrast, the upper surface of the lugs is satin-brushed. But then, look again, and you will discover a myriad of subtle details that only become apparent after prolonged examination. For instance, view the watch from the rear and you will discover the leading edges of the lugs are satin-finished. Now, view the side of the case and note the sliver of metal nestling between the top of the carrure and the bezel; once again it’s satin-brushed.
Likewise, the steel section of the caseback features two fine lines of satin brush. Each facet has been designed and finished to play with light, imbuing the various surfaces with a bewitching combination of brilliance and shade. On paper, these details may sound small but with a luxury watch, it is the minutiae that enriches the ownership experience.
Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake – MSE 311.00 calibre
Founded in 1902, Schwarz Etienne is known for its vast expertise in crafting fine watches. It operates from its period Manufacture, Villa Sonnenheim, in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a city with a rich heritage of watchmaking.
Image – watchmaking working beneath a dust-free enclosure
When I recently toured the Manufacture, I witnessed skilled watchmakers working diligently at their benches, beneath dust-free enclosures used to mitigate the risk of airborne contamination.
The above image shows the serial number on the side of the movement
Design
Inspired by vintage pocket watch movements, Schwarz Etienne has endowed the hand-wound MSE 311.00 calibre with six bridges. The resultant appearance is glorious, albeit adopting this approach requires more time and effort.
Image – conception
The movement is equipped with two barrels, arranged in parallel, providing a prodigious power reserve of 120 hours. However, beyond this impressive figure, there is another notable benefit of employing two barrels arranged in parallel. The combined force of the barrels, transmitted through the gear train and ultimately supplying the escapement, will tend to be more linear, aiding rate stability.
Image – detailed drawing showing the construction of the movement
According to Schwarz Etienne, the average daily rate is +8/-1 seconds per day.
Image – Witschi chronoscope for measuring rate variation, amplitude and beat error
Finishing
Schwarz Etienne has endued the MSE 311.00 calibre with an array of high-end finishes. The six bridges are adorned with straight Côtes de Genève, angled at 45°, and feature polished bevels. The jewels and screws don’t sit in regular polished sinks but ‘gouttes’, concave jewel sinks with dished chamfers. The resultant appearance proves highly agreeable and serves, once again, to demonstrate the Manufacture’s fastidious attention to detail.
The ratchet wheels are adorned with ‘diamond drop’, satin-finished, engraved and filled with hand-applied blue lacquer. One ratchet wheel bears the text ‘SYNERGY BY PETER SPEAKE’ while its nearby counterpart plays host to the inscription ‘UNIQUE EDITION OF 88 PIECES’. The brand’s press release explains the rationale for this number – ‘inspired by the number 8, a symbol of luck and prosperity, the Manufacture has chosen to only produce 88 pieces’.
Closing remarks
Having written about watches for the last 15 years, I can state that Villa Sonnenheim is not the largest Manufacture I have visited; however, be under no misapprehension, based on my observations, ‘small is beautiful’. The Maison has a rich history of crafting watches dating back to 1902. It has a remarkable in-house capability, having mastered each stage of production from movement conception to final assembly. And yet the company is still small enough to imbue its products with an artisanal approach. This is manifest in the fine points imparted to dials, cases and movements. Many of the creative decisions have been taken, not because it’s easy, but rather to enrich the ownership experience.
What is interesting about the Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake is that it is not a simple collaboration nor a ‘customisation’ of an existing model. The Swiss marque invited the Englishman to interpret the existing architecture of an existing reference and infuse it with a significant dose of his own character and artistic vision. Schwarz Etienne repeatedly uses the term ‘co-author’ to describe the shared creation of a SYNERGY piece, something that is palpable when the watch is affixed to the wrist.
Despite drawing on an existing model (the 1902 RÉSERVE DE MARCHE), this latest creation has a character all of its own, demonstrating the wisdom of the Manufacture’s ‘co-author’ philosophy. The model contains some DNA from the Swiss Maison and some genes from the English watchmaker, but the shared vision proves harmonious and promises to deliver enduring appeal. I suspect that all 88 pieces will be readily snapped up. Which prompts me to ask, “Who will co-author the next chapter of the SYNERGY story?”
Further reading
https://www.schwarz-etienne.ch
Technical specifications
- Model: Schwarz Etienne 1902 SYNERGY by Peter Speake
- Reference: WCL39RDMPSMSE17TINGABCLA
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 39 mm, height 10.90 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator
- Movement: Calibre MSE 311.00, hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 35 jewels, power reserve 120 hours, 182 components.
- Strap: blue textured strap with black rubber lining with a Grade 5 titanium pin buckle with Schwarz Etienne logo
- Price: CHF 25,500 excluding taxes (RRP as of 24.7.2026)