TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection was extended at Watches & Wonders 2023 with the release of a new 39mm steel model endowed with a glassbox sapphire. Equipped with a new movement, the Calibre TH20-00 automatic, it seems the avant-garde brand cannot resist making fabulous watches even better.
Carrera – 60-year anniversary
As I stare down the barrel of 60, I cannot help but feel a sense of trepidation about what life has in store. My hair is now thinner, my face is more lined and my limbs feel just a tad less flexible. However, last week, while attending Watches & Wonders in Geneva, I bumped into a sexagenarian on the TAG Heuer stand. Looking better than ever with its fresh-face, chiselled features and toned torso, the Carrera at 60 seems to have sidestepped the ageing process.
Carrera Panamericana
The Heuer Carrera was named after Carrera Panamericana, the legendary Mexican road race that ran from 1950-1954. Inspired by the evocative word, Jack Heuer registered the name ‘Heuer Carrera’ in 1962. The following year, he conceived the inaugural Carrera, a three-counter model with a tachymeter scale positioned on the tension ring encircling the dial. This latter device was used to hold the crystal in place to prevent ingress of dust or moisture. Jack’s idea was inspired as it freed up dial space, mitigating the risk of clutter and, thereby, augmenting readability. Thereafter, the Carrera became known for its clean looks and lucid dials.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph – the motorsport watch
Over the years, the Heuer Carrera has become a firm favourite among the motorsport fraternity and has often graced the wrists of fearless racing drivers. However, Heuer, subsequently renamed TAG Heuer, has never rested on its laurels, continuously revisiting models and making subtle improvements. Indeed, in 2020, the Swiss avant-garde brand released new variants of the Carrera model in both 42 mm and 44 mm case sizes and, to my eyes, the watch still looks fabulous. With this in mind, I was somewhat surprised last week to discover the firm has released a wholly new version of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, housed in a smaller 39 mm case with unique dial-side glazing.
A new generation Carrera Chronograph
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph comes in two variants, a black dial option (ref CBS2210.FC6534) and a blue faced model (ref CBS2212.FC6535). Beyond the colour of their dials, there are other additional subtle differences, something I’ll return to shortly.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph – glassbox sapphire
Both models are housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, tastefully suffused with a blend of polished and satin-finished surfaces. The dial sits beneath a glassbox sapphire crystal, flooding the display with light. Typically, glassbox sapphire crystals endue a model with a vintage vibe, however, this model looks unequivocally contemporary.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph – tachymeter scale
TAG Heuer has broken with convention, sidestepping the ubiquitous bezel, instead favouring a curvaceous tachymeter and minute track. The inner flange section plays host to the minute track, while the outer edge of the flange provides the wearer with a simple means of calculating the speed of an object over a known distance. The intelligent positioning of these latter features evokes thoughts of Jack Heuer’s ingenious use of the tension ring back in 1963.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph – additional dial details
Beyond the functional benefits of the raised tachymeter/minute track combo, the arrangement imbues the dial with a fascinating dished appearance, contributing to its fabulous three-dimensional aesthetic. The main dial is a separate component and sits below the flange. The silver-toned indexes eschew luminescent fill, are predominantly stepped and straddle the flange and dial. Behind each index, small dots positioned on the flange are treated with Super-LumiNova, proclaiming the hours in restricted light.
However, this new Carrera has retained some of the delightful details found on its siblings. For example, where the sides of the lugs meet the strap, they slope inwards, delivering an eye-catching look that surpasses the merely functional. The hour and minute hands subscribe to the design first seen on the Monaco 1969, sans rouge.
How to upset the beancounters!
I’m sorry to say it, but accountants often stifle innovation. The phrase ‘economies of scale’ is frequently uttered in the boardroom. Thankfully, the beancounters were on holiday when TAG Heuer’s product planners were discussing the specification of this new Carrera Chronograph. Clearly, the creative types did not settle for merely presenting the dial in a different hue. Allow me to elaborate.
Ref CBS2210.FC6534
Sporting a black dial, the ref CBS2210.FC6534 taps into the retro vibe. The hands are lined with old-radium-style lume. Three counters dominate the dialscape, each endowed with smooth tracks, snailed centres and executed in contrasting silver tones.
The location of the date aperture is a departure from the norm, sitting on high, positioned at noon while the black perforated calfskin strap pays tribute to Heuer Carrera models of yesteryear. Indeed, just close your eyes and you can easily imagine a life in the pitlane with your lungs filled with octane-rich air.
Ref CBS2212.FC6535
Shunning the one-size-fits-all approach favoured by the aforesaid beancounters, the blue dial option looks decidedly different. At first glance, you could be forgiven for thinking that the dial is a bi-compax arrangement, however, look again and you will see a small seconds dial positioned above 6 o’clock. It shuns snailing and lacks a raised track. Indeed, it’s a quiet soul, only making its presence known when called upon. Personally speaking, I prefer the blue dial because it is more understated.
Unlike the black dial version, the date aperture is positioned at 6 o’clock, nestling within the flush small seconds dial. The hands are lined with contemporary SLN, a detail repeated with the aforementioned luminescent dots. Lastly, the strap is smooth and devoid of perforations. No smell of oil and no cacophony of high-revving engines. No, the Ref CBS2212.FC6535 is too sophisticated for such surroundings, preferring to sip cocktails, attired in a lounge suit.
The beancounters may be seething, but brand devotees are indulged with a choice of two models, sporting two very different looks.
Calibre TH20-00 Automatic
It seems the highly impressive Caliber Heuer 02 has received elocution lessons. Indeed, now with a new moniker, the Calibre TH20-00 Automatic has graduated from finishing school and is the epitome of refinement. This new movement features bidirectional winding and a new openworked oscillating weight. Furthermore, it proffers ‘…increased efficiency and accuracy, and a higher level of finishing.’
Featuring a column wheel with vertical coupling, the specification of this movement will resonate with purists. Press the capstan-style pusher at 2 o’clock and the index finger is indulged with a silken action. Moreover, actuate the chronograph and observe how the central chronograph seconds hand begins its journey free of hesitation or wobbling. This is a very refined performance by a chronograph with impeccable manners. It also comes with a five-year warranty.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph – closing thoughts
When the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph was initially presented to me at this year’s Watches and Wonders 2023, I confess that I was somewhat surprised. After all, I don’t see anything wrong with the 42mm and 44mm references, released in 2020. However, it would appear this new 39mm reference is an addition to the collection rather than a replacement for other models. Indeed, peruse the brand’s website and you will see all three case sizes in evidence.
This new 39mm glassbox model brings something new to the table. Firstly, its size befits smaller wrists and taps into the prevailing predilection for sub-40mm case dimensions. However, this new model is more than just compact proportions and domed glazing. This new Carrera upholds the Swiss brand’s reputation for continuous improvement.
The dial is wonderfully executed and, to TAG Heuer’s credit, it has shunned the beancounter’s ‘one size fits all’ approach. Hold a loupe to your eye and you will discover different depths, finishing and textures. And yet, despite the complexity of the dial execution, the Carrera’s reputation for peerless readability remains undiminished.
TAG Heuer has ensured everything is pleasing to touch while the new movement is simply sublime. The marque’s attention to detail is impressive, especially on a watch at this price point. This leads me to ask two questions?
Will the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph cannibalize sales of other TAG Heuer models and, in particular, other Carrera references? Almost certainly. In my opinion, it is a step up on what has gone before and is probably the best chronograph on the market for less than €10K.
Lastly, bearing in mind that TAG Heuer has a history of continuously improving its products, repeatedly raising the bar with subtle refinements, it would seem that evolution rewards the patient. The only question is how long can you wait for your Carrera before you succumb to temptation?
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
- Reference: CBS2210.FC6534 (black dial) / CBS2212.FC6535 (blue dial)
- Case: polished steel, diameter 39 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
- Movement: Calibre TH20-00 automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 80 hours
- Strap – (black dial): perforated black calfskin strap. Polished steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons
- Strap – (blue dial): blue calfskin strap. Polished steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons
- Price: £5,600 (RRP as of 7.4.2023)