TAG Heuer Carrera Green Dial Special Edition
The TAG Heuer Carrera Green Dial Special Edition shares much in common with the 1964 model, the Heuer Carrera 2447S. On one hand, the modern-day chronograph encompasses some delightful period details. But on the other hand, the dial of this new creation is dressed in ultra-fashionable green hues and incorporates the modern Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic manufacture movement. By cleverly blending old and new details, the watch proves a fascinating composition.
Last year (2020), TAG Heuer was prolific, creating numerous versions of its Carrera model. Some of these references were limited editions, made to celebrate 160 years since the avant-garde Swiss brand was founded. In addition, TAG Heuer also released new versions of the ‘standard’ Carrera, a sporty variant in a 44mm case and a dressier 42mm variant. If the Carrera is your thing, then 2020 was definitely a good year.
The first new Carrera to break cover in 2020 was the Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition. As its name implies, silvery hues were the order of the day. The watch was a sympathetic reinterpretation of the coveted Carrera 2447S of 1964, a model which is highly sought after on the vintage watch scene.
The Carrera – the early years
The early 1960s was a busy period for Heuer. In 1962, while attending a race at Sebring, Florida, Jack Heuer heard of the most dangerous race in the world, the Carrera Panamericana. As soon as Jack returned to Switzerland, he registered the name ‘Heuer Carrera’.
The inaugural Carrera was unveiled in 1963. From the outset, the model was a paragon of legibility. A manufacturer of plastic crystals invented a steel tension ring, it was positioned on the inside of the crystal and designed to enhance water resistance. Jack had the inspired idea of marking the tension ring with crisp strokes spaced at ⅕ of second intervals. This idea kept the dial free of clutter while still imparting information. Later, the tension ring would be marked with a tachymeter scale, but still the main dial area remained eminently clean.
One year after launching the first Heuer Carrera, the Swiss Maison released the Carrera 2447S. This model featured a tri-compax layout, baton-style hour and minute hands and a monochromatic silver dial with tritium luminescent treatment.
Returning to 2020
The Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition looked very similar to the 2447S but with some notable changes. The case fitted to the new model was 39mm, significantly larger than the housing on the 2447S, which measured 36mm in diameter. While the dial on the new model was again a tri-compax design, the counters were repositioned. For example, on the modern-day timepiece, the small seconds indication had moved to 6 o’clock. Arguably the biggest difference of all related to the movements employed within the Carrera 2447S and the Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition. The watch of 1964 was equipped with a Valjoux 72, a hand-wound chronograph, while the modern-day watch featured the sublime Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic manufacture movement.
New and notably on-trend
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Green Dial Special Edition shares much in common with the Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, save for its blue-green dial. On one hand, this latest addition to TAG Heuer’s product portfolio looks to the past and draws on the styling of the 1964 model. However, this model is new and, thanks to the colour of its dial, looks very different from its forebears. Like many brands, TAG Heuer has recognised the public’s growing fascination for green dials. This new green-hued chronograph is bang on-trend.
Just to illustrate the public’s predilection for green dials, review our recent articles and you will note that a high percentage of the watches we have discussed this year encompass verdant green tones. For example, last month TAG Heuer unveiled a limited edition Monaco Green Dial and as I type this feature, the brand’s e-commerce site shows this product is now ‘Out of stock’.
The fact is, green dials are much in demand. Will they remain popular in years to come? Only time will tell (pun intended).
The dial
It is always interesting to read press information and see the terms employed to describe a particular dial shade. TAG Heuer describe the dial as ‘deep blue-green’ and ‘teal’. I love this latter word, it’s far more informative than using the word ‘green’ alone. This dial is a bewitching shade, while its allure is supplemented with the addition of a sunray motif.
In my opinion, the dial colour is modern, bestowing an interesting juxtaposition with the many 60s inspired elements. However, the overall composition remains harmonious and is devilishly handsome.
Rhodium-plated, baton-style hour and minute hands impart meaning. They are liberally coated with modern-day SuperLumiNova and produce a green emission in restricted light. The hours are denoted with silver-toned facetted batons with a neat circlet of luminescent material positioned adjacent.
Three counters populate the dial with a 30-minute chronograph register at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour chronograph register located opposite and a small seconds display positioned at 6 o’clock. While some Carrera models feature a date aperture at 6 o’clock, this model eschews the indication which reinforces the clean appearance of the dial.
The Carrera name, positioned at noon, sits above a period Heuer logo, heightening the model’s links with the Carrera 2447S. A minute track encircles the dialscape, while a box sapphire crystal invites light to flood the dial plane and augments the vintage persona of the watch.
The case
As previously mentioned, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Green Dial Special Edition is housed in a 39mm stainless steel case. This is 3mm wider than the diameter of the 2447S, yet the overall case design is very similar.
Personally speaking, I particularly like the capstan-style pushpieces and the way the inside edge of the lugs slope inwards towards the strap. These may sound small details, but it is the combination of such details which enriches the overall composition.
To the rear of the watch, the caseback is engraved with the words ‘Special Edition’, while a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the self-winding movement within.
The watch is presented on a black alligator leather strap, providing a luxurious means of affixing the watch to the wearer’s wrist.
The movement
Yet again TAG Heuer has equipped a new chronograph with its Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic manufacture movement. The brand headquartered in La Chaux-de-Fonds has steadily moved to this fabulous movement over the last couple of years.
The Calibre Heuer 02 is produced in the brand’s state of the art movement facility in Chevenez. Its specification indulges purists with its column wheel and vertical clutch ensemble. When the stopwatch function is actuated, the central chronograph seconds hand commences its journey without any discernible hesitation. Furthermore, pressing the pushers rewards the wearer with a creamy smoothness that encourages fingers to repeatedly ‘play’, starting, stopping and resetting the chronograph over and over again.
On some modular chronographs, actuating the stopwatch causes the amplitude to drop quite markedly, adversely affecting the precision of the movement. However, given the Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic manufacture movement is fully integrated with a column wheel and vertical clutch it is less susceptible to so-called ‘drag’.
While the Valjoux 72 had a frequency of 18,000 vph (2.5Hz), the balance within the Calibre Heuer 02 has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz), a popular tempo found on many modern watches. The benefit of operating at a high frequency is that the movement will be more precise and provide superior stability (meaning the rate accuracy remains relatively constant).
In this instance, the column wheel is presented in green while the rotor is enlivened with a soupçon of the same hue. The Heuer 02 has a prodigious power reserve of 80 hours. Quite simply, this modern movement is an absolute gem.
Closing remarks
TAG Heuer has looked to the past and drawn inspiration from the Carrera 2447S of 1964. The new Carrera Green Dial Special Edition features old-radium-style luminescent treatment, a tricompax dial layout and baton hands, each similar in appearance to those fitted to the 2447S.
The box glass looks retro but is made of modern-day sapphire crystal making it more practical. The case design appears very similar to the 2447S but is larger, fulfilling the requirements of today’s watch buyer.
While some elements of the watch may feel retro, the gorgeous dial shade is very much of the moment. Moreover, the Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic manufacture movement is modern and draws on the brand’s vast expertise, acquired over 161 years. I have pressed the pushpieces of various chronographs fitted with this movement and have always been suitably impressed. With its many attributes and handsome looks, it will be interesting to see if this model sells out as quickly as the Monaco Green Dial that was unveiled last month.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Green Dial Special Edition
- References: CBK221F.FC6479
Case: Stainless steel; diameter 39 mm; water resistance 10ATM (100m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back. - Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; chronograph
- Movement: Calibre Heuer 02 Manufacture; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 VpH (4Hz); 33 jewels; power reserve = 80 hours
- Strap: Black alligator leather strap featuring a polished stainless-steel folding clasp with two safety push buttons
- Price: £5500 (RRP as at 11.5.2021)
- Limited Edition: 500 pieces