TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde
In 2022, a new gem-set watch was unveiled, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. Besides its impressive movement, the watch incorporated the brand’s Diamant d’Avant-Garde technology. Now, the firm has just unveiled two new models again featuring lab-grown diamonds. Angus Davies explores these new models and reflects on the future direction of this forward-looking brand.
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph
Last year, at Watches & Wonders 2022, TAG Heuer released the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. This unique model showcased the avant-garde firm’s extraordinary watchmaking expertise.
Located in the southern region of the dial, the eponymous tourbillon revolves 360° every minute, negating any positional influence and, by default, augmenting the model’s chronometric performance.
However, the widespread wonderment of exhibition-goers was not limited to just the aforesaid gravity-defying mechanism. Indeed, there were several other highlights to distinguish this watch as special.
Column-wheel and vertical coupling
Firstly, it featured a refined fully integrated chronograph endowed with a highly desirable column-wheel and vertical coupling arrangement. It’s also a COSC-certified chronometer.
Carbon hairspring
Secondly, the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph featured a carbon nanotube hairspring.
Several companies have used silicium components for a number of years attracted to the glass-like material’s array of benefits. Silicium is temperature stable, friction-free, not susceptible to corrosion or magnetic influence and is very smooth. Carbon nanotube hairsprings share the same attributes as silicium but also offer additional benefits. For example, they are less fragile. Furthermore, TAG Heuer is able to produce carbon nanotube hairsprings with the collet already attached, making production simpler, mitigating the risk of human error and enhancing overall precision.
Lab-grown diamonds
Besides its many mechanical attributes, the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph also attracted hordes of admirers at Watches & Wonders 2022 for its aesthetic charms, drawn to its resplendent diamond-set dial and case.
The rhodium-plated brass dial was covered with a polycrystalline diamond plate (3.9 ct). The diamond plate was grown as one component using an artificial process (see later). Lab-grown diamonds were also set within the case structure, while the crown, again a lab-grown diamond, completed the shimmering ensemble.
What are lab-grown diamonds?
Lab-grown diamonds share the same physical and chemical properties as natural diamonds found in the ground. TAG Heuer has employed a technique termed ‘Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD)’ to create these brilliant stones. Another approach for making lab-grown diamonds is the HPHT (High Pressure and High Temperature) method.
It is impossible to distinguish lab-grown diamonds from their natural counterparts with the naked eye. For this reason, diamond traders use a spectrometer to ascertain whether a diamond is natural, HPHT grown, CVD grown or merely a synthetic spinel.
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon 44mm
This year at Watches and Wonders 2023, TAG Heuer unveiled two new diamond-set references. The first model, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon 44mm, bears a strong resemblance to the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph of 2022. However, it is presented on a black aluminium bracelet set with 34 ‘avant-garde diamonds’ (1.9ct). The dial is again formed of polycrystalline diamond (4.9ct) and is ‘composed of 12 avant-garde diamond indexes and 3 polycrystalline plates.’
In common with the aforementioned 2022 release, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon 44mm features the same Calibre Heuer 02T Nanograph movement.
The watch will go on sale in September 2023 for CHF 500,000
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde 36mm with pink diamonds
The second model, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde 36mm with pink diamonds again exploits the CVD technique, but in this instance unites white and pink lab-grown diamonds. The use of these latter gems represents a first for the Swiss brand.
While the use of coloured lab-grown diamonds is limited to just this prototype model, the innovative company has stated that the model will be ‘commercialised’. Indeed, the firm has announced plans to produce a limited number of pieces available to order from authorised TAG Heuer stores.
Ascending to new heights?
In recent years, I’ve witnessed first-hand TAG Heuer enhance its products. For instance, the Calibre Heuer 02 is a sublime fully-integrated movement, again featuring a column-wheel and vertical coupling arrangement, that will run autonomously for 80 hours.
The Maison has also revisited its popular Aquaracer, Carrera and Monaco models, expending much effort on the smallest of details. The design is sharper, the cases and bracelets look and feel even better than before and the dials impart information more clearly than ever.
With the release of the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde, the Swiss Maison shows its aspirations are even more ambitious and, based on recent history, I see little reason why the brand won’t continue its ascent to new heights.