TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands
The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands has just been updated. It now looks sharper and even more refined. The Swiss avant-garde brand continues to move increasingly upmarket, manifest with this latest horological creation which is festooned with a cornucopia of refinements.
Avid readers of ESCAPEMENT and other watch related websites may well have noticed that the Design Department of TAG Heuer has been highly productive in recent years. Furthermore, in 2018, Guy Bove joined TAG Heuer as its Creative Director. I have known Guy for around 10 years and I can attest, he is a man who expends much energy looking closely at the minutiae. This self-effacing gentleman would never take sole credit for the many improvements seen on TAG Heuer’s products of late. On the contrary, he would be more inclined to praise the efforts of his team. Nevertheless, there is no question that on his watch, many of TAG Heuer’s recent products surpass the quality of their forebears.
Coinciding with the 160th anniversary of Edouard Heuer establishing his eponymous company, the Carrera chronograph was given a radical update (2020). The Swiss marque moved en-masse to its brilliant Heuer 02 calibre. This in-house calibre, produced at the brand’s specialist facility in Chevenez, has a prodigious power reserve of 80 hours. In addition, the Heuer 02 calibre features a column wheel and vertical coupling, thereby delivering a buttery-smooth pushpiece feel and a stutter-free start to the chronograph seconds hand.
However, in my opinion, it is the habillage (all parts other than the movement) that proved equally as impressive. Subtle improvements included the design of the hands, the profile of the indexes, the interplay between satin brushed and highly polished surfaces. Each improvement may have appeared small, but when viewed as a whole, they elevated the overall sense of luxury.
Earlier this year, the Aquaracer was the subject of an update. Cleverly, the Swiss brand continued with the ‘evolution not revolution’ design philosophy. Those clients who owned an older Aquaracer were not left wanting, feeling their watch suddenly looked out of date, but, on the other hand, there was no escaping the plethora of subtle improvements visible throughout.
Now, TAG Heuer has revisited the Carrera Three Hands. Horophiles will point out that the early examples of the Carrera, released in 1963, were solely chronograph models. Nevertheless, the luxury brand went on to ‘extend’ the collection to include various non-chronograph models, the so-called Carrera Three Hands.
TAG Heuer has sent yet another batch of models to its Swiss finishing school for lessons in deportment, elocution and etiquette. There are a myriad of minuscule changes that make these watches stand out, both from their predecessors and competing watches.
However, while the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands models have been subjected to many changes, they still continue to uphold the model’s reputation for peerless legibility. Back in 1963, when Jack Heuer designed the inaugural Carrera, he made ‘readability’ a prerequisite for all Carrera models, a characteristic which is alive and well with this latest bevy of beauties.
An extensive choice. Numerous changes.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands is offered in four variants, namely, the Carrera Date 39mm, the Carrera Day Date 41mm, the Carrera GMT Date 41mm and, lastly, the Carrera Date 29mm. There is a welcome absence of nonsensical branding, the name of each option says it all.
Would-be buyers are also indulged with an array of numerous colourways, augmenting the available choice still further.
In the coming months, I hope to get ‘hands-on’ with each variant of the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands and view each detail through a macro lens.
Having recently chatted to Guy Bove about the refinements made to these new models, I can report that the list of changes is endless. It would take some time to provide a detailed inventory of updates, however, I have listed below a few examples that convey the Swiss brand’s fastidious attention to detail.
A number of refinements
Formerly the Carrera featured triangular shaped indexes, but with the advent of the new Carrera Three Hands collection, they now assume a more intricate profile. When viewed from above they appear rectangular and seem to be presented on one plane, however, when viewed from the side they resemble an Olympic podium, arranged on three different levels.
A sharp line dissects the upper part of each index conveying a sense of precision. By suffusing the indexes with numerous facets and heights, they engage with light wonderfully, enriching the overall aesthetic.
TAG Heuer has masterfully played with the texture of each dial surface. Some references feature a dial enlivened with a sunray-brush, however, I am personally drawn to the sunray-snailed finish that can be found on the black-hued dials. While snailed counters are common, I have never seen another watch brand execute an entire dial with a series of concentric circles.
Save for the Carrera Day Date 41mm, all of the new references feature a date aperture at 6 o’clock. By placing the date on a north-south axis, the sense of symmetry is heightened, upholding the design philosophy first seen with the latest generation Carrera Chronograph (2020) and Aquaracer models (2021).
When contrasting the former Carrera Day Date 41mm with its replacement, they look very similar. However, focus upon the border framing the day and date display and you will notice the newer model has a finer, silver hued border. It’s a small detail but one that grants a much sharper appearance.
The H-shaped bracelet is an evolution of the chronograph’s bracelet, tailored to suit the Three Hand models. The links are now thinner, readily enveloping the wrist and conferring superior wearer comfort.
Closing remarks
There is no doubt that TAG Heuer has invested much time refining many of the elements found on Carrera Three Hands. Some design details deliver remarkable reciprocity with light, while others proffer superior tactility. Other updates heighten the sense of luxury by tastefully juxtaposing polished and fine-brushed surfaces. Likewise, changes to the lugs and bracelet have culminated in superior levels of wearer comfort.
The Maison’s pursuit of continuous improvement is, once again, clear to see. Quite simply, TAG Heuer ownership just keeps getting better and better.
The brand’s press release (October 2021)
As a symbol of TAG Heuer’s sporty spirit, the TAG Heuer Carrera collection’s purest and most elegant watch model has been updated: the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands. The result is a new collection of 13 pieces whose design reinterprets in a modern style the innate elegance of this timepiece reimagined in four versions: the TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 41 mm, the TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 mm. The TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39 mm and the TAG Heuer Carrera Date 29 mm, all expressing the brand’s undying obsession with readability, since 1963.
TAG Heuer Carrera, a heritage of sportsmanship and elegance
The TAG Heuer Carrera collection has always been the ultimate showcase for the brand’s fascinating motor racing heritage, and is best known for its timeless, sporty and elegant chronographs. Since their introduction more than 60 years ago by visionary Jack Heuer, these timepieces, with their smooth, clean lines and perfect proportions, have become instantly recognisable and elevated to the ranks of horological icon.
Favouring pure and modern design, Jack Heuer’s aim at the time was to create a Heuer Carrera chronograph that was both uncluttered and perfectly harmonious – ideal characteristics for drivers who need to be able to tell the time at a glance in the heat of the action. In 1962, Jack Heuer, CEO of the watchmaker at the time, heard about the famous Carrera Panamericana car race, one of the most dangerous in the world. The Spanish word Carrera, which means road, race, career or course, immediately caught his attention. It would be the perfect name for a new timepiece.
The obsession with readability
“Legend has it that TAG Heuer’s obsession with readability started in 1958 when Jack Heuer dropped from first to third in a Swiss rally he was competing in because he was unable to read the dashboard timer correctly. After that, Jack decided to focus on and improve this specific pain point, and he embraced his love of modern design to create an incredibly legible watch.” explains Nicholas Biebuyck Heritage Director at TAG Heuer. “This is the reason why the Carrera launched in 1963 looks already radically different from any other watches the company had produced before. You can see in the Carrera a focus on the typography and the desire to explore the purest form possible. Its design language is so clear and minimal that there are only three lines of text on the watch dial: Carrera – Heuer – Swiss Made – removing any risk of getting confused or distracted by superfluous decorations.”
In the early 2000’s, the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands version was introduced and since that time, this line has been the embodiment of TAG Heuer’s unwavering quest for perfect readability and clarity, particularly with regards to telling time.
If the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is the sharpest and most legible way of recording time, the Carrera Three Hands is the sharpest and most legible way of telling time and as such, is the natural successor of the dashboard timers which had been produced by Heuer since the 1930’s.
In 2021, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands collection abides by the same master time philosophy and revisits this rich heritage with a touch of modernity and the same passion for creating timepieces with a striking design that ensures perfect readability for drivers, as well as for all owners of this legendary watch. A commitment that has fuelled the company for nearly 100 years.
Frédéric Arnault, TAG Heuer’s CEO, said “Since its first introduction more than two decades ago, the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands has become a centrepiece of our offering, and we are delighted to introduce a new line that ties the watch firmly to its illustrious roots, while projecting bold modernity and refinement. With 4 variations and 13 new timepieces, our clients and collectors will undoubtedly find the TAG Heuer Carrera that uniquely matches their lifestyle while enjoying its signature understated design and unrivalled legibility, features which have made it the lasting success it is.”
TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands: the new generation
The new-generation TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands collection is presented in a wide range of sizes to fit all uses and tastes. The line consists of 13 references within four sub-collections – from a 29 mm to a 41 mm diameter – all of which incorporate and echo the stylistic codes of the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 chronographs launched last year. The result is a refined and modern look inspired by the pure style that first made the TAG Heuer Carrera iconic.
All references will be offered in a stainless-steel case – twelve on a steel bracelet and one on a leather strap – with the choice of black, blue, white or silver dials which feature the new Carrera logo. The steel bracelets are equipped with the brand-new H-shaped links, an innovative design which is even more ergonomic and comfortable on the wrist.
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39 mm and TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 41mm
The TAG Heuer Carrera in the sizes 39 mm and 41 mm have a Calibre 5 automatic movement and are equipped with a new case with refined lugs. The watches have the new H-shaped bracelet for the steel version and a brown alligator leather strap for the leather version.
The dial readability is always a central asset, especially with the bolder hands and refined index integration. The Carrera Date 39 mm is fitted with a date at 6 o’clock, and for the Day Date 41 mm, a thinner date frame has been designed.
TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time Date 41 mm
The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time is equipped with the Caliber 7 automatic movement.
The Twin-Time version has the new H-shaped bracelet. The dial offers bolder hour and minute hands, and a refined Twin-Time hand tip.
The elegant and sporty design is highlighted by a new, refined flange in bicolour, silver and blue, to indicate day and night.
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 29 mm
The TAG Heuer Carrera Date 29 mm, Calibre 9 automatic, has a new case with refined lugs and a new H-shaped bracelet.
For better readability, the dial integrates bolder hands and a new refined index, which reflects the light and is inspired by the Carrera’s origins. The 29mm size line also integrates a date at 6’o clock new refined version with diamond indexes.
The introduction of the TAG Heuer Carrera Three Hands collection marks a new chapter in TAG Heuer’s Carrera history. Pure design, readability, refinement … The new generation of the Carrera Three Hands is a new interpretation of an iconic watch and a worthy representative of the readability obsession of Jack Heuer. An obsessive quest which is deeply anchored in the brand’s DNA.
Further reading
Prices
- TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 41mm – WBN2010.BA0640 / WBN2021.BA0640 / WBN2011.FC6484 – £2400 (RRP as at 7.10.2021)
- TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 41mm – WBN2013.BA0640 – £2600 (RRP as at 7.10.2021)
- TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time Date 41mm – WBN201A.BA0640 – £2650 (RRP as at 7.10.2021)
- TAG Heuer Carrera Date 39mm – WBN2110.BA0639 / WBN2112.BA0639 / WBN2111.BA0639 – £2250 (RRP as at 7.10.2021)
- TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 41mm – WBN2113.BA0639 – £2400 (RRP as at 7.10.2021)
- TAG Heuer Carrera Date 29mm – WBN2410.BA0621 / WBN2411.BA0621 – £1900 (RRP as at 7.10.2021)
- TAG Heuer Carrera Day Date 29mm – WBN2412.BA0621 / WBN2413.BA0621 – £2700 (RRP as at 7.10.2021)