Trilobe Nuit Fantastique
At Watches & Wonders 2022, Angus Davies seized the opportunity to hold the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique between forefinger and thumb and appraise it at close quarters. It proved an enjoyable experience after months of Covid-induced lockdown. However, this encounter also provided the opportunity to discover this fascinating independent watch brand and learn more about its journey to date.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Grained Havana
Real people, physical watches
Covid has cast a long shadow over most our of lives. Regrettably, some individuals did not survive its malicious grasp and others continue to suffer from its mean-spirited ways. Certainly, discussions relating to the economic impact of the pandemic and its influence on everyday life pale by comparison. Nevertheless, there is no question covid imposed many restrictions on all of us and removed many freedoms once taken for granted.
Like many of my colleagues, my life became punctuated by virtual meetings on Skype, Teams and Zoom. Thankfully, brands dispatched samples for evaluation and did everything they could to keep bloggers and journalists up to speed, but nothing could ever replace human contact and those informative skin-on-watch moments.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Grained Blue
The rationale for my preamble is that it was only after I attended Watches & Wonders earlier this year that I could fully appreciate the merits of some timepieces and meet the people behind the latest emerging brands. After a long absence from the esoteric world of luxury watches, I was suddenly able to see real people and touch physical watches. Finally, a sense of normality returned.
Touching a Trilobe for the first time
While strolling around the Genevan exhibition in March/April this year, one of the fresh-faced brands that I discovered was Trilobe. Although I had previously heard of the brand prior to my sojourn in Geneva, the annual exhibition finally provided an opportunity to appraise one of the firm’s models between forefinger and thumb. I immediately became an avowed fan.
I recently pondered which Trilobe model to appraise first and the Nuit Fantastique Dune seemed a suitable starting point.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Grained Silver
Trilobe – the early years
Trilobe’s inaugural watch, Les Matinaux, released in 2018, shunned conventional hands in favour of a patented system of rotating discs marked with hours, minutes and seconds. The design seemed a tad idiosyncratic but was eminently simple to read. The following year (2019), the Trilobe Les Matinaux Sunray Grey was preselected for the GPHG Petite Aiguille prize. While success eluded Trilobe on that occasion, it was clearly undeterred, submitting a new variant of Les Matinaux the following year (2020).
Trilobe Les Matinaux Sunray Carmine
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique
In 2021, the firm unveiled a new watch, the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique (Fantastic Night). In common with all Trilobe models, the watch was designed in France and crafted in Switzerland. Moreover, the timepiece perpetuated the brand’s distinctive means of indicating the time.
I can recall seeing an image of the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique at the time of its launch and thinking it looked cleaner than its older sibling, Les Matinaux. True to form, the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique, on this occasion sporting a grained black dial, was pre-selected for the GPHG Petite Aiguille prize.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Grained Black
Trilobe Une Folle Journée
Earlier this year (2022), Trilobe released its third collection, ‘Une Folle Journée’. The watch was displayed at Watches & Wonders 2022. I don’t wish to say too much at this juncture as a colleague is currently writing a detailed feature on this model, but save to say, on seeing it for the first time, I was very tempted to offer my hand in marriage.
Trilobe Nuit Une Folle Journée Black
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique – Novelties 2022
Many journalists and retailers, quite understandably, swarmed around ‘Une Folle Journée’. However, the Maison also released additional versions of the Nuit Fantastique at Genevan fair.
These new watches are offered in two new dial configurations, a unicolour ‘Grained Green’ option and a ‘Grained Dune’ dial composed of sand and silvery hues. Both dials are available in a choice of three case sizes 38.5mm titanium, 40.5mm titanium and 40.5mm 18-carat rose gold, providing six additional references in total. From these six new versions, I was especially drawn to the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune NF01DG (40.5 mm) in titanium and to this end, I have chosen to focus on this particular reference hereafter.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Grained Green
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune NF01DG – two-tone dial
On seeing the Nuit Fantastique for the first time, one is immediately struck by the absence of centrally positioned hour and minute hands. At the top of the dial, Trilobe’s emblem points to a rotating hour track, indicating the prevailing hour. A minute display, positioned in the northwesterly region of the dial, expresses meaning in a clear, discrete format. It is conjoined with a seconds indication, located below. Both the minutes and seconds functions subscribe to the hour display’s rotating method of imparting information.
Trilobe presents the minutes and seconds displays in silver tones, delivering seemly contrast with the adjacent sand-coloured vista. The central area of the seconds display is enriched with Clous de Paris and framed with a chemin de fer, while the seconds are shown on a revolving snailed track. Both the minute and seconds displays are framed with a raised border enriched with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces.
The granular surface of the dial proves fascinating to behold. A small groove separates the revolving hour track from the central area of the dial which remains static at all times.
When appraising the dial, observers should note the different hues, finishes, textures, curves, lines and depths as well as all three moving dial elements. The Nuit Fantastique is blessed with a fascinating face, rich in character and detail, but thankfully makes no concessions when it comes to practicality. Quite simply, the readability of this dial is beyond reproach.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune NF01DG – a Grade 5 titanium case
This particular version of the Nuit Fantastique is priced at €9,800 (RRP as of 20.8.2022), Hardly an inconsequential sum for any watch, however, it proves a keen price for a timepiece housed in Grade 5 titanium.
Unlike Grade 2 titanium, which is sometimes termed ‘commercially pure titanium’, Grade 5 titanium is an alloy composed of 90% titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium. Both forms of titanium proffer outstanding corrosion resistance and are lightweight, non-magnetic and hypoallergenic.
When compared with Grade 2 titanium, Grade 5 titanium is stronger and can be polished to a brilliant gleam. However, Grade 5 titanium has a lower ductility than Grade 2 titanium, hence it is not usually stamped but typically machined using CNC, a much costlier process. The base cost of Grade 5 titanium is greater than commercially pure titanium, which along with the higher production costs usually makes the alloy the preserve of timepieces with five or six-figure pricing. At Watches & Wonders several high-end brands were clearly marketing the lightweight material as an alternative to noble metals such as gold or platinum.
The case of the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune is impressively polished, featuring alternating satin-brushed and mirror-polished surfaces. Interestingly, the specification of the crown is determined by the size of the case. The 38.5mm case comes with a push button crown while the larger 40.5mm case is fitted with a screw-down crown. The titanium models are water-resistant to 50m, while the rose gold options have a maximum water resistance of 30m.
The matter of size is determined by a wearer’s personal taste and physical build. By offering two case sizes, Trilobe should meet the demands of most horophiles.
X-Centric calibre
An exhibition caseback reveals the X-Centric calibre, ‘an automatic movement designed and developed exclusively for Trilobe’. The independent watch brand has entrusted movement specialist, Le Cercle des Horlogers, located on the outskirts of La Chaux-de-Fonds, with the making of this interesting calibre.
Unusually, the X-Centric calibre is fitted with a micro-rotor, a feature that is typically the preserve of only a small number of brands. The challenge lies in harnessing sufficient energy from a small oscillating weight. One benefit of this approach is that the rotor sits flush with neighbouring bridges rather than above it, thereby mitigating the height of the movement. A further benefit is that it allows more of the movement to be seen, a characteristic highly prized by watch aficionados.
The Trilobe X-Centric calibre shuns traditional Côtes de Genève and perlage. Instead, the brass bridges and main plate are dressed in a grained anthracite finish. This understated finish serves as a foil for the silver-toned wheels positioned above. The modernity of the finish extends to the architecture of the movement. For example, the balance wheel is mounted on a straight, neoteric black balance cock, retained with a lone silvery screw.
Trilobe Nuit Fantastique – closing thoughts
Firstly, the dial of the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune converses clearly with the wearer, instantly sharing information without any inhibitions. It is wonderfully detailed, resembling an artistic canvas enriched with a delightful array of subtle nuances.
Secondly, the Grade 5 titanium case is beautifully presented. Trilobe has chosen to use the costly alloy, granting a plethora of benefits. The case is appointed with a tasteful blend of satin-brushed surfaces and mirror-polished surfaces. It looks and feels extraordinary and with two case sizes on offer, the Nuit Fantastique should suit the majority of would-be buyers.
I have visited Le Cercle des Horlogers in the past and recall being very impressed by its expertise. This is manifest with the X-Centric calibre, a contemporary movement that’s clearly imbued with much horological know-how. Moreover, the firm has experience in creating high complications such as tourbillons and minute repeaters, hence it should be able to meet the long-term aspirations of this fascinating watch brand.
Put simply, the Trilobe Nuit Fantastique is a fabulous expression of fine watchmaking and represents excellent value for money. I hope this watch proves successful at this year’s GPHG.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune NF01DG (40.5 mm) in titanium
- Reference: NF01DG (40.5 mm) in titanium
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 40.5 mm, height 9.2mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds subdial displayed by rotating rings and fixed indicators
- Movement: X-Centric calibre; automatic movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 33 jewels; power reserve 48 hours; 230 components
- Strap: leather with a titanium pin buckle
- Price: €9,800 including taxes (RRP as of 20.8.2022)