Ulysse Nardin Classico Small Second Manufacture
Angus Davies gets hands-on with the Ulysse Nardin Classico Small Second Manufacture.
This detailed review of the Ulysse Nardin Classico Small Second Manufacture includes live images, specification and pricing.
As individuals we have a tendency to select goods which we perceive mirror our own personality. Timepieces which are overtly sporty are unlikely to appeal to the ‘couch potato’. Likewise, a brightly coloured timepiece may not appeal to a ‘shrinking violet’. With this in mind, I find the Ulysse Nardin Classico Small Second Manufacture to be a fascinating watch because its personality is complex.
On the face of it, the dial of the Classico Small Second Manufacture is pure. Its white tones and sparing use of detail exude an innocent demeanour. However, with innocence there is a presumption of naivety, a lack of knowledge that leaves the individual vulnerable to exploitation or corruption.
This is where this watch proffers a contradistinction. It has an innocent smile but harnesses much wisdom and know-how. The grand feu enamel dial is chaste and unblemished, yet its creation draws on the expertise of a great maison. Indeed, this expertise extends not only to the unsullied dial but also to the impressive self-winding movement powering the functions of the watch.
The dial
The dial is a disc of refined, flawless loveliness. There are no impurities to spoil the appearance of the display. Everything is blemish-free and imbued with a quotient of permanence, courtesy of the grand feu enamelling.
Donzé Cadrans has a profound expertise in the creation of grand feu enamel dials. While the company creates dials for other watch companies, it belongs to Ulysse Nardin, thus providing an in-house expertise few other firms possess.
Each hour is denoted with black, Roman numerals. Framing the dial is a chemin de fer, again in black and, below noon, the maison’s name and place of origin are declared in black text. All of this detail has a notable longevity, courtesy of the grand feu enamelling and the high temperatures employed.
The Classico Small Second Manufacture utters the time with a soft voice, employing black feuille hands. Similar to a gently spoken word, the wearer dutifully takes notice of the meaning expressed with each hand. While garish hands cause the observer to repel, these hands draw the wearer ever closer.
Located above 6 o’clock, a small seconds display resides on a lower plane. It masterfully plays with depth to grant much eye-appeal. The small seconds hand is lithesome and its tip integrates with a railroad track encircling the display. Nestling within the small seconds display is a date display, presenting black numerals via a circular aperture.
The Ulysse Nardin Classico Small Second Manufacture effortlessly communicates with the wearer with impressive clarity and noteworthy style.
The case
The 40mm stainless steel case rebuffs the recent trend for larger case sizes. The proportions of this modestly sized watch share the same unassuming character as the dial. Indeed, there is nothing boastful or brash about the Classico Small Second Manufacture.
The bezel is highly polished and extends diagonally to the vertical flank of the case-band. The case-band arcs on its vertical flank and features lugs which are virtually straight. While the failure of the lugs to curve sharply may have proved problematic on a larger diameter case, it does not present a problem on this 40mm offering.
In common with the bezel, the case-band, lugs and case-back are also highly polished. However, the gleaming metalwork is not overwhelming and in no way does it mar the understated character of this handsome timepiece.
The crown features the brand’s anchor emblem set in a sea of blue detail. This flurry of ebullience is judiciously applied, augmenting the aesthetic appeal in a tasteful way.
The movement
Glancing at the Caliber UN-320 via the exhibition case-back reveals an oscillating mass adorned with a wave pattern. Each bridge features circular Côtes de Genève motif. Thermally blued screws proliferate and petit perlage is in evidence on the main-plate.
The balance bridge affixes at two points proffering greater stability than a mere balance cock. The balance wheel features screws set in-board, mitigating turbulence and augmenting precision.
The movement contains 39 jewels. The frequency of the balance and the power reserve are not stated by the Manufacture. The movement contains ‘silicium technology’ mitigating the escapement’s susceptibility to magnetism and friction.
Closing remarks
With time some dials will fade and lose their factory-fresh appearance. However, the dial of the Classico Small Second Manufacture will continue to retain its seemingly new aspect. Indeed, grand-feu enamel dials possess a longevity unlike any other.
The softly spoken character of this watch is endearing. It invites the wearer to sip each dial indication, quietly contemplating the meaning of time. If you crave loud statements of wealth or seek much attention then this watch is not for you. However, if you appreciate a pure, unassuming dial vista which imparts information cleanly then this watch may well be a suitable companion. Moreover, despite its simple appearance, there is much complexity and skill behind this watch’s virgin-like eyes. This is a timepiece which personifies all the traits I personally find appealing.
Further information
Technical specification
- Model: Ulysse Nardin Classico Small Second Manufacture
- Ref: 3203-136-2/E0-42
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 40mm; sapphire crystal to front and case-back; water resistant to 3 ATM (30 metres)
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date
- Movement: Caliber UN-320; Self-winding movement; 39 jewels
- Strap: Black leather strap supplied on a steel pin buckle
- Price: CHF 8,800 (RRP as at 19.12.2017)