Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph
Angus Davies gets hands-on with the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph.
This detailed review of the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph includes live pictures, specification and price.
The corrosive properties of seawater, the colossal pressures experienced at great depths and the cruel currents of ocean waters all collaborate to threaten the survival of a wristwatch. It amazes me that divers’ watches actually exist when one considers the hostile environment they are exposed to.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph is one such watch that has been created to deal with the harsh treatment that the ocean metes out. Recently, I had the opportunity to wear a version of this watch, sporting a very natty metal bracelet and, although I only appraised its constitution on dry land, I was able to ascertain its tough credentials.
The dial
The blue dial appears like a metaphor for the sea. This aquatic symbolism is augmented courtesy of a wave-like motif on the dial epidermis. The luminescent hour and minute hands are open-worked near the centre of the dial, allowing sight of the subdials positioned below. Indeed, the obscuring of the subdials is minimal thanks to the intelligent design of the hour and minute hands.
Legibility is key to a diver’s watch, especially when used underwater. The hour and minute hands of the Diver Chronograph unite with the applied hour markers to convey time with a clear tone. There is no vagueness to the time indicated, everything is intelligible.
Three subdials populate the dialscape including a 30-minute chronograph register at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour chronograph register at 6 o’clock and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock. The topography of the dial does not look like a conventional tri-compax layout owing to the silver circlet framing the 30-minute chronograph register. This deviation from the norm confers a delightful dose of individuality, making the Diver Chronograph stand out from the crowd.
A circular date aperture is also positioned at 6 o’clock. It is magnified, making the date numerals appear highly readable.
Completing the diver’s watch specification is a uni-directional bezel, featuring a blue rubberised inlay and 60-minute scale. This is an authentic diver’s watch par excellence.
The case
Measuring 44mm in diameter, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph is a substantial timepiece. While the watch manufacturer does not mention the height of the case in the specification of the watch, it does feel significant. This did nothing to mar my enjoyment of the watch, but did remind me that this is a tough diver’s tool capable of shrugging off the aforementioned aquatic hostilities.
The chronograph push-pieces are the screwed-down variety, revealing a smattering of blue along their profiles when securely locked. The crown nestles between two stout protectors, mitigating the risk of potential impact damage. The case-band invites the wearer to feel its sinuous contours and absorb its sublime structure.
I seldom mention anti-reflective treatment on watches but the quality of the coating on this watch is especially impressive, capably arresting any potential glare and nullifying its impact.
My press loan was equipped with a stainless steel bracelet but a rubber strap option is also available. The 3-rows stainless steel bracelet is far more luxurious than the bracelets I am accustomed to seeing on diver’s watches. The links alternate between polished and satin-finished and brim with style. The folding clasp has a notable solidity to its form and feels incredibly secure when the watch is being worn.
The steel bracelet and tough watch-head exude robustness and the timepiece is substantial in terms of mass. I used my humble kitchen scales to ascertain the weight and found the mass to be approximately 226g. Personally, I appreciate the heft of this watch and feel its weight confers both strength and value. Nevertheless, if the weight is likely to present a problem I would suggest you consider the rubber strap variant.
The movement
Unusually for a diver’s watch, the Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph is fitted with an exhibition case-back, affording views of the self-winding, Caliber UN-150. This may annoy traditionalists who expect a diver’s watch to have a solid case-back. However, I appreciate the pane of sapphire crystal on the dorsal flank of the watch. Indeed, I have always enjoyed viewing a movement as it proffers part of the charm associated with owning a fine watch.
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph features up to date silicium technology. The state of the art material is used for the escapement and hairspring. However, despite the modernity of some components Ulysse Nardin has not turned its back on traditional finishing. The bridges are adorned with circular Côtes de Genève, the mainplate features perlage and blued screws abound.
Closing remarks
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph has a maximum water resistance of 300 metres, making it ideal for use underwater. It possesses impressive legibility, stout construction and a unidirectional bezel, granting the timepiece the necessary prerequisites for use as a diver’s watch. Nevertheless, despite such practical considerations, this watch does not forgo style. The blue rubberised bezel and blue accents on the crown and pushpieces exude aesthetic charm. Moreover, the bracelet is incredibly attractive and mixes satin-finished and highly polished surfaces with stylish aplomb.
I suspect many would-be wearers will only wear the watch on dry land, with perhaps the occasional dip in a heated swimming pool, but this does not matter. The qualities this timepiece possesses for use in the ocean are equally relevant on terra firma. Indeed, excellent readability, matchless wearer comfort, exquisite movement finishing and a notable sturdiness are all qualities which suit every day life, making the Ulysse Nardin Chronograph a highly practical ownership proposition.
Further information
https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/
Technical specifications
• Model: Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph
• Case: Stainless steel; diameter 44mm; sapphire crystal to front and caseback; water resistant to 30 ATM (300 metres).
• Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date; chronograph
• Movement: Caliber UN-150; Self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 VpH (4Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 48 hours.
• Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp
• Price: €11,500 (RRP as at 21.8.2017)
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