Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold Watch Review
The dial of the Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold is adorned with various hand guillloché patterns. Angus Davies reviews this timepiece in detail and reveals a level of exacting horological rectitude which leaves him breathless.
This detailed review of the Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold includes live images and specification details.
Invariably, when introduced to a person, it is their face we initially notice. Likewise, on making acquaintance with a watch for the very first time, our eyes are drawn to the dial. There are many beautiful dials available for the delectation of would-be buyers, however the magnitude of the allure can vary enormously.
Recently, I met representatives of Urban Jürgensen, an exalted practitioner of fine watchmaking, and was introduced to the Reference 1140L White Gold for the very first time. The dial immediately ensnared my heart and I vowed that one day we would engage in a moonlight tryst.
There are many factors which can augment the visual enchantment of a watch dial. A well chosen colour, articulate hands and the masterful manipulation of depths and textures can help differentiate the magnificent from the merely ‘good’. Moreover, the arrangement of dial indications should blend logical positioning with aesthetic attractiveness if there is to be any prospect of attaining design greatness.
The dial
The cobalt tones of the dial seductively engage with the eyes. The dial possesses a chameleon-like capacity, varying its blue complexion, depending on the angle in which it is held. Part of this capricious behaviour can be attributed to the guilloché dial which playfully toys with light.
The hand guilloché dial is a product of painstaking artisanal craftsmanship. Only one guillocher will work on the dial to ensure consistent application of fine lines and other uniform patterns. Unusually, in the hi-tech world we all share, technology is set aside, for there is no substitute for the skilful operation of a rose-engine lathe. Each rotation of the silver dial disc is carefully controlled by hand to ensure a consistent cutting depth. Once completed, the dial surface effervesces with life, justifying the protracted means of its creation.
It takes two days to craft the gorgeous blue coloured, silver dial. The main area of the dial is adorned with a grain d’orge motif. The small seconds display features a basketwork pattern, while the hour track is adorned with satiné circulaire. The result is a wonderful tapestry of texture, suffused with numerous peaks and troughs, bestowing an enchanting aesthetic reminiscent of jacquard silk. Even more impressive is that the dial is constructed from one disc, eschewing the simpler approach of soldering-in subdials adorned with alternative patterns.
The solid white gold hands are crafted by hand. The hour hand features a large eye, consisting of a ‘concentrically diamond polished gold ring insert’ held in position by virtue of its precise, frictional fit. The hands eloquently communicate with seemly grace.
The short inventory of indications provides a welcome clarity of purpose. Hours, minutes and small seconds are voiced clearly without any interference from adjacent complications. The outcome is wonderful.
The applied white gold hour indexes overflow with refinement, courtesy of their numerous facets and dignified tips.
The case
The white gold case of the Reference 1140L consists of three parts and measures a restrained 40mm in diameter. The scale and design of the case exhibits a hushed character, flying in the face of the popular phenomenon of ‘bling’ and conspicuous consumption. Undoubtedly, an Urban Jürgensen timepiece is for the discerning wearer.
There is a welcome sense of tradition with each timepiece bearing the Urban Jürgensen name. For example, this case is milled from a solid block of white gold, using a hand turned lathe. There is a delightful absence of haste which permeates the culture of this revered maison. Moreover, despite the high level of handwork, the blemish-free outcome reaffirms the prowess of the company’s time-served craftsmen.
The lugs are exceptional. They begin life as a block of gold, forged into tear-shaped forms. This process necessitates the lugs being subjected to a high pressure of 50 tons. Thereafter, heating and then cooling of the metal is necessary to prevent the gold becoming brittle. This process is repeated several times, pairing tiny amounts of gold from the surface until the desired shape is achieved. Thereafter, the lugs are milled, hand polished and, finally, soldered to the case. I have repeatedly examined the lugs of the Reference 1140L and can attest there are no traces of solder to be seen. Indeed, the seamless union between the lugs and the case is immensely impressive. Moreover, they confer a degree of aesthetic poise which distinguishes the case as special.
Gracing the right hand side of the case is the crown. It proves simple to manipulate but assumes a discreet presence on the caseband. Above the crown, the convex bezel casts interesting shadows that alluringly contrast with the curved sides of the caseband. The curving flanks of the case, which take longer to execute than the straight sides, reinforce the sense of no-compromise construction.
Admiring the dorsal plane of the Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold is yet another pleasure which awaits the wearer. The screwed caseback features 12 edges to assist in opening the timepiece for occasional servicing requirements. A large diameter sapphire crystal bestows a glorious, widescreen view of the hand-wound movement within this exemplar of haute horlogerie.
The black alligator skin strap fitted to the press sample I appraised was beautifully marked and proffered a sumptuous tactile encounter. The strap is paired with a white gold pin buckle, delivered in the brand’s distinctive C-buckle design.
The movement
The ‘Urban Jürgensen Movement P4’ is a hand-wound movement featuring a Swiss lever escapement. The balance has a frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz) and the movement contains 23 jewels. Twin barrels collaborate to deliver an impressive power reserve of 72 hours. However, discussion of figures seems incidental, as the most outstanding aspect of this calibre is the flawless finissage manifest.
The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. Close examination reveals that each line presented is beautifully defined. The bridges are engraved with golden text, heightening the sense of luxury. The jewels sinks are polished to a mirror-like finish. The ratchet wheel is circular grained and sports gleaming teeth. Thermally blued screws are ubiquitous, likely to impart a warm glow to the cheeks of any die-hard purist.
Personally, I adore the balance bridge which features a twin-arm design, allowing sight of the screwed balance in virtually its full entirety. The architecture of the balance bridge evinces a palpable lightness and delicate appearance which is prevalent throughout this watch.
Lastly, I feel compelled to mention the space between the bridges. The gaps are sufficient to allow the wearer to see the circular grained wheels of the gear train. In particular, the centre wheel can be seen floating above perfectly presented perlage, bestowing a lovely sense of mechanical theatre for the delectation of the fortunate wearer.
Closing remarks
The Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold is, yet again, another example of fine watchmaking from this small, independent brand. The company draws on its Danish heritage and Swiss watchmaking prowess to craft timepieces with a distinct and tasteful character all of their own.
The Reference 1140L presents time with crisp decorous dialogue, abstaining from the showy, vulgar behaviour popularised by some Instagram ‘bling’ lovers. Moreover, by adopting this comparatively conservative approach to design, the Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold will retain a lasting eye-appeal.
Indeed, the raison d’être for the costly use of hand craftsmanship and no-compromise components is they provide a peerless level of longevity. After the wearer of this watch has shuffled off their mortal coil, this timepiece will continue to breathe and ably serve a new generation. It is this immortality which I find endearing and flies in the face of the modern notion of ‘lifed products’, deliberately intended to fail at some future, pre-determined point.
However, I have to return to the dial. The deft use of hand and rose-engine lathe has imparted a magnificent diaphanous quality to the dial of the Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold, similar to cobalt-hued jacquard silk. Quite simply, this is a face I will never tire of admiring.
Technical specification
- Model: Urban Jurgensen Reference 1140L White Gold
- Case: 18-carat white gold; diameter 40.00 mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds.
- Movement: Urban Jürgensen Movement P4, hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 23 jewels; power reserve 72 hours.
- Strap: Black alligator strap, presented on an 18-carat white gold pin buckle.