Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT – Urban Jürgensen ONE collection
The Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT along with its sibling the Reference 5241 represent the Swiss-Danish brand’s first foray into the sports watch market. However, purists can relax, these contemporary models uphold the venerated company’s reputation for superb attention to detail. The only question is, ‘will demand outstrip supply’?
The phrase ‘supply and demand’ is frequently uttered by economists. Supply, demand and price are inextricably linked. In theory, a price is set when supply and demand are in equilibrium. However, there are some exceptions to this theory.
The annual production of some brands runs into five or six figures, yet they state certain models require would-be wearers to join a lengthy waiting list. In reality this has little to do with production capacity and is simply the marketing department engineering scarcity. Said brands could easily make greater volumes of these watches but deliberately choose not to.
However, the supply of some watches is not restricted merely to inflate demand. For instance, the finest examples of haute horlogerie are imbued with a high level of hand craftsmanship. The requisite skills to make such paragons of fine watchmaking are scarce and training suitable individuals takes several years. These time-served artisans cannot be hurried. They work within the hushed environment of a traditional, well-lit atelier. A culture of patience pervades these dust-free buildings. Thereby, the supply of some luxury watches is restricted by virtue of their protracted creation.
Urban Jürgensen – an exemplar of haute horlogerie
Urban Jürgensen, the high-end Swiss-Danish watch firm is an exemplar of haute horlogerie. The scarcity of its watches is not a cynical attempt to fool the unsuspecting but a genuine indication of its limited production capacity.
This luxury marque has been in existence since 1773 and has become known for its exalted watchmaking. Several of its dress watches feature glorious guilloché or grenage dials. Thermally blued hands uphold watchmaking tradition, while sinuously-contoured cases proffer aesthetic delight. At the heart of each model is an in-house movement or a calibre made by a specialist firm, either way, the level of finishing stands comparison with the best in the industry.
Be under no misapprehension, Urban Jürgensen makes watches for those connoisseurs who shun fickle fashion, preferring a lasting allure.
Urban Jürgensen ONE collection
At Baselworld 2019, Urban Jürgensen unveiled two new sports watches, the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5241, a model I have reviewed previously, and the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT. Despite its lengthy history, this is the first time the firm has made sports watches, taking it into a new market segment.
Image – Urban Jürgensen Reference 5241 with Charcoal Grey dial
At first glance, the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT looks virtually identical to the aforementioned Reference 5241. However, its inventory of functions extends to a 24-hour track, indicating the ‘home time’.
With the release of these two references, Urban Jürgensen has entered the same competitive arena where the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus have historically carved up the spoils. Having already succumbed to the charms of the Reference 5241, I have decided it is about time I looked more closely at the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT.
The dial
The hour and minute hands are partially openworked and feature luminescent fill. On the brand’s classical watches, the hour hand features a polished eye, often including a ring retained merely by its frictional fit. In this instance the eye is again diamond polished but is integral to the whole of the hand. A supremely slender central sweep seconds hand circumnavigates the one-piece solid dial, pointing to the minuterie with laser-like precision.
Facetted mirror-polished hour markers, lined with Super-LumiNova, sit upon a grenage textured track. At 3 o’clock, the date is presented on a white disc via a rectangular-shaped aperture.
‘Maritime wave style grains d’orge guilloche’ adorns the central area of the dial. Its sumptuous texture is rich in character, coquettishly toying with the onlooker’s affections. An integrated cartouche, proclaiming the Maison’s nomen, sits below noon.
However, all roads ultimately lead to the GMT function. The 24-hour track, positioned at 6 o’clock, allows the wearer to view the ‘home time’. This succinct indication proves eminently simple to use. By employing a 24-hour scale, the wearer can easily see whether the prevailing time at home is day or night.
Søren Jenry Petersen, the brand’s President and CEO, was a watch collector prior to working within the watch industry. He is a purist and this is evident when looking at the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT. While this is marketed as a sports watch, Petersen has retained many of the exquisite details found on the brand’s classical watches. For example, the polished canons at the fulcrum of the dial evince a sublime gleam, perfectly illustrating Petersen’s fastidious attention to detail.
The case
The 41mm case is constructed from ‘Medical Grade 1.4441 steel’ which provides superior corrosion resistance to the ubiquitous 316L stainless steel. Urban Jürgensen has endowed the case with a blend of satin brushed and mirror polished surfaces. The bezel has been subject to mirror polishing and is one of the most noticeable case components. Quite simply, it looks gorgeous.
A domed sapphire crystal invites light to flood the ‘Urban Blue’ dial, augmenting readability. Two pushers hug the left-hand flank of the case. They prove tastefully discreet but facilitate ease of use. The upper pusher, adjacent 10 o’clock, allows the wearer to advance the ‘local hour’ without the need to fiddle with the crown. The lower pusher provides the wearer with a user-friendly means of moving the ‘local hour’ backwards. Everything is eminently logical and clearly the consequence of protracted thought.
Surprisingly, the bracelet is one of the highlights of the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT. I use the word ‘surprisingly’ as it seems that with many watches the bracelet is an afterthought, perfunctorily fulfilling a need rather than demonstrating any design expertise. The satin brushed links of the bracelet are punctuated with mirror polished oval interlinks. This juxtaposition of two contrasting finishes proves sublime. The butterfly folding clasp neatly integrates with the rest of the bracelet, avoiding any annoying protrusions.
Fulfilling the requirements of gym-dwellers and other sporty types, the watch has a maximum water resistance of 120 metres.
The movement
The Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT is equipped with the P5 Automatic calibre. The traversing balance bridge is secured with two screws, proffering superior stability to a simple balance cock. This attribute is particularly relevant for a watch with a sporting remit.
The balance has a frequency of 21,600 VpH (3Hz) and the movement contains 34 jewels. Twin barrels collaborate to deliver an impressive 72 hours of autonomous operation. The movement includes a stop seconds facility, allowing the owner to synchronise their watch with a reference clock.
Some sports watches exhibit a utilitarian characteristic. In some instances movements are hidden behind solid casebacks and are devoid of high-end finishing. Urban Jürgensen has been incredibly honest about the execution of the P5 Automatic calibre by equipping the watch with an exhibition caseback. There is no need for secrets as, unsurprisingly, everything is distilled to a pure conclusion.
The openworked oscillating weight is adorned with a gold inlayed UJ shield and a 22-carat solid gold mass is affixed to its periphery. The bridges are embellished with Côtes de Genève motif and prominent blue text. There is a proliferation of thermally blued screws to sate the needs of traditionalists. The jewels and screws sit within gleaming sinks and flawless anglage abounds.
Urban Jürgensen may have elected to enter the world of sports watches, but it has not abandoned the peerless finishing found on its classical models.
Closing remarks
As you will have been able to ascertain by now, I adore the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT. It has a highly legible dial, the GMT function is intuitive to use and the Urban Blue canvas is exquisite.
The case and bracelet confer a matchless ergonomic union with the wearer’s wrist as well as proffering an abundance of eye-appeal. Indeed, I could not resist twisting my arm repeatedly, coaxing the oval duo-shape interlinks into morphing from an apparent black to white and then back to black. This comment may define me as an eccentric soul, something I would not contest, however, it provides just one example of the many pleasures that await the fortunate wearer of this watch.
I derive much delight, taking time out from the hubbub of everyday life, in order to wind a manual movement. However, Urban Jürgensen has clearly recognised that a sports watch has to be equipped with an automatic movement. An active life precludes hand winding. The P5 Automatic calibre is superb and befits the aforementioned dial and case ensemble. It successfully blends functional details, such as the twin barrels, with an abundance of refined finishing.
It is very difficult to predict whether a watch is likely to become ‘an icon’. Nevertheless, I do think the Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT possesses all the necessary qualities to be considered in the same breath as the coveted Royal Oak or the esteemed Nautilus. Indeed, the Reference 5541 GMT brims with sophistication.
At this juncture, some readers, with their appetite sufficiently whet, may wish to acquire their very own Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT. To be honest, I don’t know whether Mr Petersen currently has a long list of prospective owners. However, based on the impressive talents of the Reference 5541 GMT, I suspect that it is only a matter of time before demand outstrips supply.
Further reading
https://www.urbanjurgensen.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Urban Jürgensen Reference 5541 GMT
- Case: Medical Grade 1.4441 steel; diameter 41mm; height 13.8mm (at centre of domed crystal); water resistance 12ATM (120 metres) sapphire crystal to the front and sapphire caseback
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date; GMT – 24-hour home time subdial
- Movement: P5 Automatic calibre; automatic movement; frequency 21,600 VpH (3Hz); 34 jewels; power reserve 72 hours
- Strap: Tapered integrated semi-flexible bracelet in Medical Grade 1.4441 steel with ‘butterfly double synchro – secured folding clasp’.
- Price: CHF 33,500 + VAT (RRP as at 18.8.2019)