Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial Watch Review
Exploring the technical and mathematical nature of timekeeping is a subject best reserved for astronomers and astrologers. But for those individuals who are deeply fascinated by the cosmos and its inherent link to timekeeping, the zodiac signs and constellations of the night sky prove fascinating. The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial watch is a tasteful and poetic fusion of high art and Haute Horlogerie.
Mapping the skies
The practice of observing time and zodiac constellations harks back to ancient civilisations. The Egyptians and the ancient Babylonians, who began uncovering the links between zodiacs and celestial timekeeping, developed some of the earliest calendars in history.
Essentially, the zodiac is a belt-shaped region of the sky that extends across the ecliptic – the path taken by the Sun over the course of a year. In ancient Babylonian times, astronomers divided this belt into 12 equal parts, constituting one of the very earliest celestial coordinate systems. Each section formed a constellation of stars or a ‘sign’, named after the animals or mythological creatures they resembled. The twelve parts of the belt were used to determine the seasons by their alignment with the Sun. It became an important chart for agricultural purposes, giving farmers the insight they needed to plant and harvest their produce at just the right time. Subsequently, these twelve zodiac constellations became defined as the calendar year.
Historically, the study of celestial bodies (astronomy) and the practice of connecting them with human behaviour and personalities (astrology) became intertwined. Ancient cultures used the celestial movements to predict events. Eventually, this astronomical framework became primarily associated with horoscope astrology. In turn, the natural sciences that exist beyond our Earth have inspired many timepieces over the last century. One Maison that perpetuates some of the oldest watchmaking techniques operates from a modern facility in Plan-les-Ouates.
Vacheron Constantin – celestial artistry
Over the years, Vacheron Constantin has given the world of horology several timepieces that celebrate the poetic nature of astrology and recognised the influence of astronomical phenomena on timekeeping. Examples include the 2012 ‘Legend of the Chinese Zodiac’ series, showcasing intricate enamelling techniques that depict the animals of the Chinese zodiac. In 2017, the Maison created the Copernicus Celestial Spheres watch, part of its highly desirable Métiers d’Art series. This latter watch depicted the Earth’s orbit around the Sun, incorporating hand-engraved zodiac signs presented upon a Grand Feu enamel dial. The company has now unveiled the new ‘Tribute to the Celestial’ watches, further additions to its Métiers d’Art collection. Like many of Vacheron Constantin’s high-complication watches, these timepieces reject mediocrity, dramatically infusing narratives into their dials through the artistic crafts of the past.
Vacheron Constantin Metier d’Art Tribute to the Celestial watches – introduction
Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art collection represents an unbroken lineage of artistic expertise and craftsmanship. Each watch is an exemplar of the manufacturer’s profound dedication to preserving traditional horological arts. The dials often combine two or more crafts. Some examples include Grand Feu enamelling, hand-engraving, meticulous gem setting and even miniature hand-painted scenes.
This year, 12 separate canvases display the zodiac constellations, with diamonds serving as the literal stars of the show. Meanwhile, the figurative details for each zodiac sign are created by Vacheron’s master guillocher, using geometric shapes against backdrops of inky blue. These limited-production timepieces combine meticulous gem-setting work with in-house movements, precious metals, hand-applied diamonds and hand-guilloche techniques. Collaboratively, they represent the more expressive face of watchmaking for which Vacheron Constantin is known for.
As divisive as some of Vacheron’s more elaborate watchmaking can be, if I can’t convince you that these Tribute to the Celestial watches are worthy of your love, then I have done them an injustice. To help convey the admiration they deserve, I have two compelling reasons to put forward. One – the subtlety of each guilloché dial. Despite an underlying focus on sharp geometric lines, the zodiac signs are presented on tone-on-tone dials, giving them a stage to shine quietly. Secondly, their versatility. These watches don’t just speak to a few pretentious collectors, but rather anyone who can appreciate artistic excellence in a watch.
Vacheron Constantin Metier d’Art Tribute to the Celestial watches – dials
The new Tribute to the Celestial watches take inspiration from Vacheron Constantin’s Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart Leo Constellation Jewellery (2021). Like the former, these new releases use diamonds to form a cosmic blueprint that Vacheron Constantin etches into a velvet night sky. The stage begins with a dial base, crafted from 18ct 5N gold. Firstly, a skilled artisan outlines the constellation and the zodiac sign before applying a sunburst finish – the three human signs (Gemini, Virgo and Sagittarius) of which feature opaline details. Following this, a steady hand is required to perform the hand guilloché technique, a painstaking process by which triangles are densely packed together, their straight sides flush with one another to form the angles and shapes of each zodiac sign. Each sign requires at least 16 hours to complete.
The map of each constellation, however, peeps through the top layer of the dial via a machining process that reveals the golden hues of the base layer. A varnish protects these finely carved lines before the minute and second tracks are stamped onto the dial. White gold indexes and the brand’s Maltese Cross logo blend harmoniously with the diamonds, which are the last to adorn the dial – each one grain-set from the reverse side for maximum light penetration. Meanwhile, the southern hemisphere of the dial is occupied by a large window that reveals the tourbillon, while the Vacheron Constantin name resides adjacent, located between the 3 and 4 o’clock.
Vacheron Constantin Metier d’Art Tribute to the Celestial watches – case
The 18ct white gold cases of the new Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial watches, 12 pieces in total, hit the sweet spot size wise, measuring a very wearable 39 mm in diameter. And while each dial is the result of a lengthy 8-step process, the work carried out on the case is no less demanding. The setting of 96 baguette-cut sapphires on the bezel, crown, lugs and the deployant clasp requires a total of 27 hours to complete. The intense blue hue of the sapphire gemstones, secured within a channel setting, not only forms a continuous ring of light around the dial but also continues an uninterrupted blue theme across the dial and the strap. The slenderness of the case, just 10.7 mm in depth, is matched by an equally slender movement, the Calibre 2160, which has a thickness of 5.65 mm.
Vacheron Constantin Metier d’Art Tribute to the Celestial watches – movement
The Calibre 2160 is a synthesis of technical and functional beauty. Developed entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin, it benefits from the unimposing structure of a peripheral rotor, affording a superb and uninterrupted view of the movement through the exhibition caseback. Without obscuring the movement, the rotor reveals a view of the intricate gears, hand-bevelled bridges and additional decorative finishes to various parts. With an unhindered view of the tourbillon too, the ‘suspended’ components within the cage are refined to the highest order and irrespective of whether you’re admiring the watch from the front or the back, the views prove glorious. The Calibre 2160 bears the hallmark of the prestigious Poinçon de Genève and is adorned with a plethora of finishes, including perlage, mirror-polishing, Côtes de Genève decoration, circular grained wheels as well as chamfered and polished screws. It also beats to the rhythm of 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 80 hours once fully wound.
Closing thoughts
All too often, gem-set watches are dismissed as ‘bling’, but no such descriptions should be applied to these Vacheron Constantin watches. These 12 limited-production pieces inhabit a different space and deserve the utmost respect for their high quotient of artisanal crafts. In particular, the guilloché figurative drawing on the dials imbue each watch with an interesting alternative to classical guilloché. The resultant dials are daring, showcasing the artisan’s immeasurable dexterity and painstaking attention to detail.
The Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial watches miniaturise the vastness of the cosmos into wearable masterpieces, each one a mesmerising portal into the fragile blue veil of our atmosphere. And with extra special touches like the Maltese Cross-inspired tourbillon and the beautifully finished, ultra-thin movement, the hundreds of hours devoted to crafting these exceptional timepieces certainly won’t go unappreciated by the cognoscenti.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/
Technical specification
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Celestial
- 6007A/000G-H042 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Aries
- 6007A/000G-H043 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Taurus
- 6007A/000G-H044 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Gemini
- 6007A/000G-H045 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Cancer
- 6007A/000G-H046 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Leo
- 6007A/000G-H047 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Virgo
- 6007A/000G-H048 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Libra
- 6007A/000G-H049 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Scorpio
- 6007A/000G-H050 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Sagittarius
- 6007A/000G-H051 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Capricorn
- 6007A/000G-H052 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Aquarius
- 6007A/000G-H053 Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Celestial – Pisces
- Case: 18-carat white gold, diameter 39 mm, height 10.7 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon
- Movement: Calibre 2160, self-winding movement, frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), 30 jewels, 188 components, power reserve approximately 80 hours
- Strap: blue alligator leather with 18ct white gold sapphire-set clasp
- Price: available upon request