Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date unites the prestigious Maison’s sporty Overseas model with a speciality of the House, the retrograde display. This is a first time such a combination has been offered, but purists can rest easy, the legendary loveliness of the historic marque is alive and well. US-based Meehna Goldsmith explores this captivating expression of Haute Horlogerie in her own inimitable way.
Retrograde indications
Remember playing tag with your friends as a kid? Whoever was “it” had to catch one of the runners. The resulting touch, or “tag”, passed off the duties to the next person. The original “it” better sprint away fast or else risk getting tagged back himself.
The retrograde date on the Vacheron Constantin Overseas moon phase retrograde date reminds me of this classic children’s game. The “hand” arcs 180 degrees across the top half of the dial in a slow creep to “catch” the last day of the month. Once the goal is accomplished, the hand retreats in the blink of an eye back to the starting position. Just like tag, this retrograde date complication is fun and playful.
What is a retrograde complication?
What exactly is a retrograde complication? Instead of moving through a circular orbit of 360 degrees to complete the marking of a cycle, such as the time, the indicator proceeds forward on the scale, only to jump back to the beginning. Vacheron Constantin notes the first mention of a retrograde date in the mid-18th century in a German astronomical parquet clock, while the Journal Suisse d’horlogerie in 1906 describes a pocket watch from 1791 with a retrograde date and month.
During the roaring ‘20s, Vacheron Constantin showed its creative prowess with the retrograde display, embracing the Art Deco aesthetic. Throughout the 1930s, the retrograde display enjoyed its moment in the spotlight. Then, other styles came into vogue and the retrograde retreated into the background.
The quartz crisis
For those of us old enough to remember, the quartz crisis of the 1970s foretold the doom and demise of the mechanical watch industry. As we all know, a battery-powered movement isn’t even a pale comparison to the artistry and engineering of Haute Horlogerie. In the 1990s, with the Phoenix rising, came the revival of watches that included retrograde functions. Back in 1994, Vacheron Constantin offered its example with the Mercator. More than just retrograde displays, brands were playing with the mechanism, presenting more complicated bi-retrograde and tri-retrograde displays too!
Vacheron Constantin – a history of making retrograde indications
Vacheron Constantin is known for its innovative implementation of the retrograde complication. Look to the Patrimony collection for some enticing examples. Although the brand has incorporated the retrograde mechanism into its other pillars, it never did so in a sports watch. Now, the Overseas collection can make the claim with the Overseas moon phase retrograde date marking the maiden voyage into sportswatch retrograde waters.
Vacheron Constantin 222
The Maison launched its first sports watch in 1977 in the decade the luxury sports watch was born, when Audemars Piguet created the market with the Royal Oak in 1972. The Vacheron Constantin 222 was introduced to celebrate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. With a monobloc case and fitted bracelet, the watch featured a porthole-style bezel held down with screws. Vacheron Constantin retired the 222 in 1985, but the solid design cues would provide inspiration for the Overseas collection which came onto the scene just over a decade later in 1996.
Vacheron Constantin, born in 1996 and updated in 2016
The Overseas collection evolved once again in 2016 while keeping the established emblematic features: six-sided bezel referencing the brand’s Maltese cross symbol, fluted crown, luminescent hour-markers and hands, and polished and satin-brushed finishes. A new translucent blue dial, revised case shape, interchangeable bracelet and in-house movement gave the model a fresh and modern appeal.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas moon phase retrograde date – the display
With the Vacheron Constantin Overseas moon phase retrograde date, the Overseas collection adds yet another dimension. The precision moon phase at 6 o’clock, linked to the date that only requires correction once every 122 years, reflects the arc of the retrograde date in a balanced design that brings all the elements together beautifully. The 18K white gold hour-markers and hours, minutes and date hands, all highlighted with blue Super-LumiNova®, keep the time visible whether in bright or dim conditions. When light bounces off the blue lacquered dial and sweeps across the velvet-finished flange and satin-brushed centre, you can see all the exquisite detail. Conveniently, all functions can be accessed and adjusted via the crown.
Calibre 2460 R31L/2
No less care is taken with the movement. The Overseas moon phase retrograde date gets its power from the self-winding in-house calibre 2460 R31L/2 with a 40-hour power reserve. Seen through the sapphire case back, it contains several flourishes of detail such as a circular-grained mainplate and 22K gold oscillating weight engraved with a stylised compass rose representing the travel and exploration themes inherent within the Overseas models. It also has a soft iron casing ring ensuring anti-magnetic protection and a screwed-down crown for 5 bar water resistance. As with many of Vacheron Constantin’s models, this one also meets the strict requirements of finishing and performance to earn the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal).
Vacheron Constantin Overseas moon phase retrograde date – 41mm case
The Overseas moon phase retrograde date comes in a 41mm stainless steel case that hits the sweet spot for size. The watch is supplied on a steel bracelet with half Maltese cross-shaped polished and satin-brushed links, secured by a folding clasp with push-pieces and a comfort-adjustment system. In addition, with an interchangeable strap system, it can make a quick costume change to a calfskin leather or blue rubber strap. All of these goodies are included in the package.
Vacheron Constantin – masters of the retrograde display
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas moon phase retrograde date offers a new and sophisticated addition to the Overseas line. It’s an implementation rarely, if ever, seen in a sports watch. Once again, the Genevan Maison demonstrates why it’s a specialist in the genre, offering a compelling vision that’s both sophisticated and filled with childlike wonder.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Overseas moon phase retrograde date
- Reference: 4000V/210A-B911
- Case: stainless steel, diameter 41 mm, height 10.48 mm; water resistance 5ATM (50m), sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, retrograde date, precision moon phase, age of the moon
- Movement: Calibre 2460 R31L/2, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 27 jewels, power reserve of approximately 40 hours
- Bracelet: steel bracelet with folding clasp with push-pieces and interchangeable system
- Additional straps: supplied with blue calfskin leather and blue rubber strap
- Price on request