Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin Watch Review
Released in 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin fuses a high complication with feminine styling. Meehna Goldsmith explores this eminently graceful expression of Haute Horlogerie from the esteemed Maison.
The Perpetual Calendar
Vacheron Constantin has given the boys a lot of attention recently, featuring its ultra-thin perpetual calendar complication in both the Overseas and Patrimony models. The perpetual calendar is truly a wonder of micromechanics. If you keep the watch wound, it can accurately note the day, date (and time) until the year 2100. Think about that: it will keep track of the calendar for the next 78 years without a hitch. No need to adjust for different lengths of the months or even leap years!
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin – for ladies
Now the brand turns its attention to the ladies. And it’s none too soon. We also admire and lust after complications. Sure, the men’s renditions are cool (Pretty please, I’d love a time only men’s Overseas!!!), but they aren’t designed with the size and tastes of the typical woman in mind.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin – dial and case
The ultra-thin perpetual calendar makes its debut for ladies with the titular Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin offered in either white gold, with a blue-grey tinted mother-of-pearl dial, or pink gold, with a white mother-of-pearl dial. Both versions are housed in a 36.5 mm case, measuring just 8.43mm in height. Driving the action is the calibre 1120 QP (Quantième Perpétuel), an ultra-slim movement measuring just 3.6 mm thick. All Vacheron movements retain the Geneva Seal (Poinçon de Genève), which means that the watch has to be manufactured in the city or the Canton of Geneva.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin – the exquisitely finished calibre 1120 QP
Most importantly, the movement also features the required exemplary finishing, including a circular-grained mainplate, hand-bevelled bridges with a Côtes de Genève motif, and a ratchet and crown wheel that have been polished to remove signs of machining etc. Through the sapphire caseback, you can see this artistry along with the 22K gold open-worked rotor in the shape of the Manufacture’s Maltese cross logo as well as the Geneva Seal motif.
With a perpetual calendar, there’s a lot of information packed into a small movement. Now, the trick is to organise it on a small dial into months, day of the week, date and leap year. Oh, you’ve also got to make all that legible. If you can’t decode the info, what’s the point of a perpetual calendar?
Fortunately, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin lands a perfect dismount in the legibility department. Dauphine-style hands move round the chemin de fer and baton-style indexes. Against the elegant mother-of-pearl dials, circular indicators between 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock allow you to quickly know the precise time and date with nary a squint. In addition, there’s still room for a moonphase at 6 o’clock to capture the position of the Earth’s natural satellite. Since the dial is smaller on the women’s version of the Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin, Vacheron has incorporated a specially designed, slimmed-down bezel to open up the surface of the dial for even sharper visibility.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin – closing thoughts
Framing the dial with a spark of fire, 76 round-cut diamonds circle the case and punctuate the stepped lugs. Each of the two presentations comes with an alligator leather strap in grey-blue for the white gold model and rosy beige for the pink gold model. The buckles also flash with 17 round-cut diamonds. This is the first time in the Traditionnelle collection that the straps are easily interchangeable with the press of a button. This is a nice little perk because a strap can completely change the vibe of a watch, a feature that is especially useful for different occasions.
Vacheron heeds the call of women who appreciate complexity and refinement in a watch, yet with feminine touches and individuality that make it special.
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle perpetual calendar ultra-thin
- Reference: 4305T/000G-B948 / 4305T/000G-B948
- Case: 18k white gold / 18k 5N pink gold; diameter 36.5 mm; height 8.43 mm; water resistance 3 ATM (30 m); sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Hour; minutes; perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, 48-month display with leap year indication)
- Movement: Calibre 1120QP; self-winding movement, frequency 19,800 vph (2.75 Hz); 36 jewels, power reserve of approximately 40 hours
- Strap: Blue-grey (4305T/000G-B948) / Rosy beige (4305T/000R-B947) Mississippiensis alligator leather with calfskin leather inner shell, stitched tip, square scales. Includes integrated self-interchangeable system. Buckle – 18K white gold/18K 5N pink gold pin buckle set with 17 round-cut diamonds
- Total diamond-setting – 94 round-cut diamonds, for a total weight of approx. 1.20 carats (guaranteed minimum carats)
- Price: £84,500 including VAT (RRP as of 22.9.2023)