Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu
The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu is the latest creation from the independent watch brand based in Saint-Imier. Despite its modest size, this company makes refined timepieces imbued with excellence that promise lasting appeal.
Should you utter the name ‘Saint-Imier’, most horophiles will probably reply ‘Longines’. Indeed, the Swiss watchmaking giant has been resident in the town since 1832. However, there is another watch brand on the voters roll, Zeitwinkel.
Founded in 2006, the independent watch brand may be smaller than its famous neighbour, but it certainly understands how to make fine timepieces. Its name means ‘time angle’ in German which does sound a tad strange to a native English-speaker. However, rest assured, there is nothing strange about this company’s products.
Made in-house at the brand’s quaint atelier, the firm’s watches are rich in virtue. Thumbing through old diaries, I was able to establish that I visited the brand’s manufacturing facility in September 2013 (note to wife – that’s why I don’t throw anything away). I can still remember observing a watchmaker assemble one of the brand’s models at a bench. Mainplates and bridges sat beneath cloches, protected from dust but not from my inquisitive eyes. Every step was performed meticulously with absolute concentration.
The culture at this firm is the very antithesis of mass production.
The mainplate and bridges found within the brand’s models are made from Maillechort, untreated German silver. This acquires a becoming patina with the onset of years, a characteristic that is highly prized by watch aficionados. Thereafter, these parts are beautifully decorated with perlage, executed in two sizes, Côtes de Genève, chamfering and other forms of hand-finishing.
Over the years, Zeitwinkel has not flooded the market with a plethora of new models. Indeed, its watches possess a timeless quality that renders regular facelifts unnecessary. In 2013, I saw the 273° for the first time and it still remains a popular member of the firm’s collection.
Back in 2013, the 273° was available with a choice of dials in black, blue or silver. It comes as no surprise to learn that nothing has changed. It’s an endearing aspect about this brand that it doesn’t create watches that become obsolete a year following their release.
Lancine hour and minute hands collaborate with trapezoidal indexes to impart the prevailing time. A small seconds display is positioned in the lower portion of the dial. Its scale is bigger than its generic name suggests, providing a perfect illustration of the brand’s practical mindset and a welcome detail for those who are myopically challenged. A power-reserve indicator is located between 1 and 2 o’clock, employing one arcing hand that says all you need to know. However, the pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the large date display, positioned between 10 and 11 o’clock. Two discs proclaim the date in a highly legible format, one disc for tens and the other for units. As horological etiquette dictates, the discs match the dial hue. Clearly, Zeitwinkel doesn’t countenance a ‘one fits all’ compromise.
I think it was 2016 when Zeitwinkel released the 273° Saphir Fumé (note – I couldn’t find the appropriate diary). The ‘regular’ dials found on the aforementioned 273° triumvirate were set aside in favour of a smoky sapphire crystal disc. This detail allows the wearer to see various components normally hidden from view and showcases the brand’s impressive finishing. Consistent with Zeitwinkel’s paradigm, this model also remains a member of the brand’s portfolio.
Now the independent watch brand is back with a rare new model, the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu. Similar in concept to the 273° Saphir Fumé, the dial of this latest creation is formed from a disc of sapphire crystal, albeit on this occasion it is executed in a handsome shade of blue. Again, the model indulges horological voyeurs with a penchant for peeping at exposed movement parts.
Such complexity does present a number of technical challenges. Making the blue discs from sapphire crystal is time consuming and costly. In addition, Zeitwinkel has employed LIGA technology for the indices, again another expensive detail. However, the additional costs incurred by the brand are justified as the resultant watch is drop-dead gorgeous.
Zeitwinkel may be a small company, lacking the marketing budget of its neighbour, hence it will probably always lack the same brand awareness as the big firms. However, Zeitwinkel is a name all watch aficionados should note. Quite simply, it makes fabulous watches infused with excellence that promise lasting appeal.
The brand’s press release (June 2021)
Swiss watch brand Zeitwinkel introduces its new watch model “273° Saphir Bleu” with a unique transparent blue sapphire dial and patented large-date display at the “11” position.
Independent watchmaker Zeitwinkel releases its latest model 273° Saphir Bleu, available from June 2021. This watch is powered by Zeitwinkel’s own automatic in-house calibre ZW0103 with a patented large-date mechanism and a power reserve of 72 hours. Like all Zeitwinkel movements, the calibre ZW0103 features German Silver plates and bridges and is elaborately decorated even in places that cannot be seen unless the movement is completely disassembled.
The dial is reminiscent of Zeitwinkel’s successful model 273° Saphir Fumé, but significantly more difficult to manufacture. Explains Zeitwinkel’s co-founder Peter Nikolaus: “The process which allows us to achieve this special blue colour and the LIGA process we use to apply indices and other dial components are very time-consuming. We can only make very few of these special dials every year, which subsequently limits the number of watches we can manufacture.”
Every 273° Saphir Bleu is assembled by hand in Zeitwinkel’s atelier in Saint-Imier in the Swiss Jura. The watchmakers build every movement from its basic components, assemble the watch and then test and regulate each timepiece. Since Zeitwinkel uses untreated German Silver, extra care is necessary as any mistakes in decoration, assembly or handling would remain visible, even more so as the movement can be seen through the transparent dial as well.
The result is well worth the effort, outlines another co-founder of Zeitwinkel, Professor Ivica “Maks” Maksimovic: “The warm colour of the movement in combination with the exceptional blue transparent dial is absolutely amazing. From some angles, the dial gives the impression of a nearly solid, very elegant blue coloured dial. Just a small tilt of the wrist however reveals beautiful bright blue colour tones and the details of the movement are brightly lit.”
Zeitwinkel’s model 273° Saphir Bleu is available for order immediately, but only a very limited number can be made every year. The first watches have already been spoken for by Zeitwinkel’s launch partner Chronopeace in Tokyo as a “Japan Priority” model.
Retail price for the model Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu is CHF 15,500.00 ex Zeitwinkel’s Manufacture in Saint-Imier, Switzerland.
Further reading