Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli Watch Review
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is a high-frequency chronograph but with the addition of a complete calendar. The brand from Le Locle is currently celebrating its 160th anniversary and is marking the milestone with a series of models featuring blue dials. Mark McArthur-Christie, a die-hard El-Primero fan, explores the specification of this latest reference, a watch blessed with a becoming lapis lazuli dial.
Zenith El-Primero – being a fan from a young age
When Zenith’s new El Primero-powered Chronomaster arrived, it took me straight back to 1977 and being 11 again. I’d just started collecting watches and I had no idea about anything so magpied everything I could afford. That ranged from 30p Smiths pocket watches and old Timex pin-pallet movements from the junkshop to piles of brochures I’d wheedle from local jewellers.
Mallory’s in Bath were very kind to a brassic 11 year old and would load me down with watch literature when I summoned the courage to call in. Having spent hours with my nose in catalogues, one of the watches I decided I wanted was the TV dial Zenith El Primero, that slab of square, solid 70s integral bracelet gorgeousness with its pushers fared into the case sides. Back then, owning a Zenith was as realisable as owning a Maserati Autovettura, but it didn’t stop me dreaming. I’ve had a soft spot for the maker ever since.
This is all a very self-indulgent way of saying that if you want a rational and impartial view on a Zenith with an El Primero movement behind the dial, I’m probably not the best person to ask.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli – the blue period
Best to start with the facts, then. In simple terms, the new Chronomaster Triple is a 38 mm diameter, 14 mm thick (about the same as a Speedmaster) stainless steel cased triple calendar chronograph, powered with an El Primero calibre 3610 automatic movement. So far, so familiar, but this one also has a not-so-familiar lapis lazuli dial.
Although the firm has gone a little nuts with the blue this year, there’s only one other lapis-dialled watch in the 160th anniversary collection; the G.F.J. running the observatory standard calibre 135 – very much a dress watch. This makes sense. It’s a stone we’re accustomed to seeing as the dial-facing on evening watches from makers like Rolex, Piaget and JLC. It’s interesting, then, to see Zenith pairing it with a much more practical and functional watch like the Chronomaster.
It’s also a brave move. Cutting any stone for a watch dial is a challenge with plenty of opportunity for cracks, breaks and shattering – and that’s just the poor dial maker. A watch dial needs at least one hole – for the cannon pinion. So far, so easy – boring a hole in a stone disc isn’t for the amateur, but it’s perfectly possible. Cutting holes for three subdials isn’t beyond the wit of man either, but just look at the proximity of the holes here. There’s very little material left between them, significantly increasing the chances of a break – and it doesn’t take much pressure with lapis lazuli. But now try cutting the three right-angle corner holes (far harder) for the day, month and date indicators, especially with the fraction-of-a-milimetre thread of stone between them and the subdials.
It’d be much easier with reconstituted stone, so of course Zenith didn’t use that – they used the proper stuff. Once the dial is cut it’s mounted to a brass dial baseplate, so will be absolutely fine in use, but the plate won’t make the process of cutting any simpler or less stressful. Apparently, the firm needs around 200 blanks to get 100 usable dials. We’ve often mentioned the atelier swearbox, but surely, thanks to the lapis dials this year, there’ll be enough to fund a decent Christmas lunch at La Croisette.
Looking at the new Chronomaster it’s hard to deny it’s worth all the bother. Natural lapis is a glorious stone to use for dials. It has all the depth you need but isn’t full of distracting, fussy inclusions. Those that there are just add to the appeal – flecks of gold-coloured pyrite particularly. And there’s the brag factor that no two will be alike.
Zenith El Primero 3610 automatic
The co-star of the show here is the El Primero movement, as designed by a team headed by Raoul Perret and brought back from the dead by the patron saint of Le Locle, St. Charles Vermot. It’s a testament to the architecture and adaptability of the movement Perret and his team designed that, since its debut in January 1969, the El Primero has been through more incarnations than Doctor Who. All based on the original high-beat engine, there have been flybacks, annual calendars, stop seconds, moonphases and even the remarkable calibre 9004 from 2017 that ran two separate escapements and a 1/100th second chronograph.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli – dial
This one sees a true 1/10th of a second function where the chronograph seconds hand runs round the dial in just 10 seconds, precisely indicating 1/10ths on the silver-toned chapter ring. There’s also a triple calendar complication that shows the day, month and date and, as if that wasn’t enough, there’s a moonphase at 6.
Here’s a challenge for you if you fancy yourself as a watch designer. Come up with a dial format that combines a 1/10th of a second chronograph, a Complete Calendar (so day, date & month), add in a moonphase display. Run hours and minutes in the centre with a small seconds at 9, a central chronograph hand, a 60-minute counter at 6 and – finally – a 60-second counter at 3. As the social media influencers say, we’ll wait.
Does the result look like a dog’s dinner or, at best, one of those watches you see for a tenner at Gatwick? It’s to be expected. Although we realise that many watch designers feature among Escapement’s readers, they are a (worthy) minority. But any of them will tell you how difficult it is to design even a basic three-hander. All the more credit to Zenith for playing a blinder with this new Chronomaster. Every function is clearly identifiable, easy to read and use and – hardest of all – works in visual harmony with all the other elements of the watch.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli – setting the time
Setting things is a bit more complicated. You change the date and month from the crown (it’s a bit of a faff, but still more than manageable) and the date and moonphase with the two pushers recessed into the left side of the case. You’ll need to manually set the date to deal with short months and February’s vagaries, but we’re not talking G-Shock levels of setting complexity.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli – a family likeness
It’s easy to see the DNA of the very first watch in this latest model. The case is, as you’d expect from an El Primero, proper 1960s. There are definite influences from the A386, with its pump pushers and sunburst brushed, edged lugs. The sapphire crystal is a box sapphire with barely a bezel to show and the case sides are polished. There’s also a useful 50 m of water resistance.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli – a strap and bracelet
Zenith has been thoughtful when it comes to securing things to your wrist – you get a blue calfskin leather strap as well as a matching steel bracelet, both of which are fitted with a folding clasp.
Closing remarks
A new El Primero is a tough brief – even if the significant change is only (only!) a new dial material. All that heritage from the A386 weighs heavy. This new watch manages to still be instantly recognisable as an El Primero, even without the famous script on the dial, but the lapis dial takes it to another level.
And I’m no closer to curing my El Primero addiction.
Further reading
https://www.zenith-watches.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli
- Reference: 03.3400.3610/51.C910
- Case: steel, diameter 38 mm, height 14 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, day, date, month, moonphase disply, chronograph
- Movement: El Primero 3610 automatic movement, frequency 36,000 vph (5 Hz), 35 jewels, power reserve approximately 60 hours
- Strap: comes with 2 straps: blue calfskin leather strap with steel folding clasp. Metal bracelet with a folding clasp included
- Price: £20,500 (RRP as of 14.8.2025)