Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black upholds the Maison’s reputation for no-compromise traditional craftsmanship, however, its looks are decidedly contemporary. Housed in a tastefully, understated ceramised titanium case, this fine watch may prove the ideal timepiece for stylish globetrotters.
Chopard Watch Review
During the 1990s, the Swiss watch industry was still licking its wounds after the so-called ‘quartz crisis’. However, Chopard, a family-owned business, courageously embarked on becoming a Manufacture, crafting its own watch movements in-house.
Having taken the decision to become a Manufacture, Chopard acquired premises in Fleurier, an area synonymous with fine watchmaking. Interestingly, Fleurier is approximately 45 km from Sonvilier, the small village where Louis-Ulysse Chopard established his eponymous company back in 1860.
Chopard L.U.C 1.96
In order to create the Manufacture, Chopard had to invest vast sums of money. Many brands would shy away from such an undertaking, however, as history has shown, the Swiss firm has never lacked courage. In 1996, Chopard released its inaugural movement, the ‘L.U.C 1.96’ (now called the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L).
Some companies may have been tempted to ‘play it safe’, producing a straightforward movement, however, such an approach is alien to Chopard. Indeed, as the brand has repeatedly shown, it shuns mediocrity. Instead, ambition is an all-pervading trait evident throughout the business.
The L.U.C 1.96 was a self-winding calibre featuring a micro-rotor. This element differentiated Chopard’s first movement from the majority of automatic watches at the time. While some other brands offered watches endowed with a micro-rotor, they were few in number. The technical challenge of creating sufficient energy to tension a mainspring has frustrated the aspirations of many watch brands, but not Chopard.
A micro-rotor was located in a circular recess within the movement, sitting flush with neighbouring bridges. By adopting this approach, the movement was especially thin. Indeed, the L.U.C 1.96 measured a mere 3.3mm in thickness. Moreover, by using a micro-rotor, the design afforded sublime views of the beautifully decorated bridges.
Two stacked barrels delivered a prodigious power-reserve of 65 hours, the balance featured a swan-neck regulator and the movement bore the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (these days the symbol appears not only on the movement, but the case as well). The precision of the movement was beyond reproach, a fact independently certified by COSC. Lastly, the finishing of the L.U.C 1.96 was exemplary, with Côtes de Genève motif, perlage and gleaming bevels much in evidence.
In 1997, the L.U.C 1.96 featured within the company’s first L.U.C model, the aptly named ‘L.U.C 1860’, named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard and the year he founded his company. With the advent of this watch, the Swiss marque demonstrated it was able to compete in the upper echelons of Haute Horlogerie.
Over the last 25 years, the Chopard Manufacture has produced an array of in-house movements, including two-handers, chronographs, perpetual calendars, GMTs, tourbillons and flying tourbillons. In fact, the Maison has even produced Grand Complications, the ultimate expressions of horological virtuosity.
In 2021, Chopard celebrated the Manufacture’s 25th birthday, it will inevitably unveil a number of new watches. Recently, I was granted the opportunity to view one of its novelties prior to its launch and wear it for a few days, evaluating its composition at close quarters. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black is based on the Time Traveler One launched back in 2016 but with an added dose of modernity.
Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black dial
The dial of the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black is, as its name implies, black, however, close examination reveals this horological vista is enriched with a myriad of subtle shades and details. Some elements of the dial composition are reassuringly familiar while other details are refreshingly new.
The dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands will be familiar to most disciples of Chopard L.U.C products. These hands are used to indicate the ‘local time’ and are lined with Super-LumiNova, aiding readability in restricted light. The grey hour track is marked with Arabic numerals and tear-shaped indexes and is adorned with a series of concentric circles.
A slim circlet sits inside the hour track and is marked with date values. A truncated hand with a prominent triangular tip points to the prevailing date. The indication is understated yet eminently legible, two characteristics seldom mentioned in the same sentence. The central area of the dial features vertical brush.
Beyond the hour track is a two-tone GMT disc. The hours 0630 – 1830 hours are depicted against a grey backdrop, while the hours 1830 hours – 0630 hours are shown on a black section of the GMT disc.
A city disc, marked with the names of 24 important locations around the globe, occupies the periphery of the dial. The crown positioned at 4 o’clock allows the wearer to rotate the city disc. When the city disc for the local time is set to the 12 o’clock position, the wearer is able to determine the prevailing hour in all 24 locations, simultaneously.
While a GMT or dual-time watch, displaying the local and home time, meets the requirements of many wearers, there are some individuals who need to juggle several time zones at the same time. This latter group of individuals are best served with the worldtimer.
A central sweep seconds hand completes the inventory of functions. Despite the dial displaying much information, its layout, monochrome tones and different textures, provide a tasteful, harmonious and highly intelligible display.
Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black case
Since the opening of the Chopard Manufacture in 1996, the company has shown respect for watchmaking traditions while working with modern-day materials and technology. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black is housed in a 42 mm ceramised titanium case. This material is formed from titanium that has been through an oxidation process where the surface layers of the titanium are subjected to extreme heat using electro-plasma technology.
The resultant lightweight case material has a dark grey appearance and, according to the brand, is ‘more resistant to damage and corrosion than normal titanium’. Moreover, the material has an impressive hardness of 700 Vickers (Hv). By comparison, 316L stainless steel has a hardness of circa 150 – 200 Vickers. I found that the case always looked pristine while in my possession shunning the annoying smears typical of a highly polished steel case.
As previously mentioned, the case is equipped with two crowns. The crown at 2 o’clock has three positions: winding (position 0), altering the date (position 1) and, lastly, adjusting the local time, including the GMT disc (position 2). The second crown, marked with a globe motif on its vertical flank, rotates the city disc. As the city disc rotates counter-clockwise, it confers a positive click, something that never fails to elicit a smile. Indeed, throughout the composition, each touchpoint delivers tactile delight.
The lug-to-lug distance measures approximately 50cm, with the horns sharply tapering downwards. The strap is made of ‘vegan-certified fabric-patterned rubber’ and features grey stitching. If I had not read the specification sheet, I would have assumed the strap was fabric. Personally, I found the watch incredibly comfortable to wear.
The ceramised titanium case and accompanying fabric-patterned rubber strap provide the watch with a modern, yet notably elegant appearance. An exhibition caseback, fitted with a pane of tinted sapphire crystal, affords sight of the Calibre L.U.C 01-05-L movement.
Chopard L.U.C 01-05-L
The self-winding Chopard L.U.C 01-05-L was first released in 2016 to critical acclaim. The initial models were housed in steel, rose gold and platinum. Now, the same movement powers the new Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black, dressed in ceramised titanium.
As stated earlier, the Swiss Maison has chosen to reinforce the stealthy nature of the dial and case by placing the movement behind a pane of tinted sapphire crystal. However, rest assured the beauty of the movement remains clear to see. The movement is hand-finished with chamfered bridges and Côtes de Genève decoration. The oscillating mass is partially openworked, granting superior views of the decorated bridges below.
The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement contains 39 jewels. Assuming the watch is fully wound, it will run autonomously for 60 hours. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black is chronometer-certified by COSC, providing independent reassurance of the model’s accuracy and performance.
Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black – closing thoughts
I have previously worn the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One in various metals, including highly desirable platinum. On one hand, the new Time Traveler One Black shares much in common with its older siblings. For example, the pleasingly familiar dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands. On the other hand, this latest model is refreshingly new and brims with modernity.
Initially, I thought the watch was best suited to thirty somethings, however, having worn the watch for a few days, it looked perfectly at ease on my fifty something wrist. Moreover, I paired the watch with casual attire as well as my favourite grey suit. Quite simply, the Time Traveler One Black looks at ease with any form of clothing and would befit any sartorially-astute gentlemen.
The dial displays numerous functions, yet it remains highly legible and simple to interpret. The case may look modern, but it upholds Chopard’s longstanding reputation for ergonomic design and, by default, delivers sublime levels of wearer comfort. But ultimately, all roads lead to the movement. It is beautifully appointed and impressively precise. However, this comes as no surprise to me, after all the Chopard L.U.C 01-05-L is a product of the brand’s Manufacture in Fleurier, a place where excellence has been a way of life since 1996.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One Black
- Reference: 168574-3008
- Case: ceramised titanium; diameter 42 mm; height 12.09 mm; sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date; world time function
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 01-05-L; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 39 jewels; power reserve 60 hours
- Vegan-certified fabric-patterned rubber strap with grey stitching paired with a pin buckle in ceramised titanium
- Price: £15,200 (RRP as of 3.11.2023)
- Limited Edition: 250 pieces