Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817 emulates the appearance of a former model from 1971. The dial, case and steel ladder bracelet are period correct. The El Primero 400 movement makes a small concession to modernity, allowing the wearer to measure smaller fractions of time than the original El Primero movement, first released in 1969.
In recent months, Zenith, the brand based in Le Locle, has been prolific, unveiling a plethora of new models. While I have been a longstanding admirer of the El Primero movement, I have been especially dazzled of late by the brand and its interesting product strategy.
On one hand, the Manufacture has embraced avant-garde design, cutting-edge materials and has not been afraid to dress its products in eye-popping tones. Conversely, the esteemed Maison has been happy to delve into its archives and revisit designs of yesteryear.
The latest release, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817 taps into this latter market segment. The A3817 was released in 1971. It blended a tonneau-shaped case with the brand’s beloved tri-compax dial design with each counter presented in a different hue. This latter detail continues to feature on many of the firm’s modern-day creations.
The inaugural Zenith El Primero movement was released in 1969. This was a year when a horological space race was playing out, namely, to be the first to release a self-winding chronograph.
Breitling, Buren, Dubois-Dépraz and Heuer were collaborating on ‘Project 99’, a modular chronograph movement featuring a micro-rotor with a frequency of 2.75Hz. This was also released in 1969. Likewise, in the same year, Seiko unveiled its Calibre 6139, a 3Hz movement featuring a column wheel and vertical coupling.
However, of the three movements, the fully integrated El Primero, Codename 3019PHC, stood out for a variety of reasons. Most notable was its surprisingly slender profile and its remarkable 5Hz frequency. This latter feature delivered superb precision and, even today, the movement’s hi-beat frequency remains a technical feat that eludes many rival firms.
Returning to Swiss brand’s latest release, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817. This new model shares the same appearance as its 1971 antecedent. Moreover, the Swiss marque has stayed true to the original, housing this latest version in a period-correct 37mm case. One concession the brand has made to modernity relates to the movement which is the El Primero 400, first released in 2009. This movement is more compact and can measure smaller fractions of time.
Lastly, the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A3817 is offered with either a light brown calf leather strap or a steel ‘ladder’ bracelet. The bracelet fitted to the original 1971 was made by Gay Frères, the pre-eminent bracelet specialist at the time that supplied a plethora of watch brands, including, most notably, Rolex. The design of the bracelet is interesting because of the rectangular apertures positioned between each link. By upholding this original detail, Zenith has imbued this latest model with additional retro charm.
The brand’s press release
When the El Primero calibre made its groundbreaking debut in 1969, Zenith chose to house it in two broad but distinct watch categories. On one hand, there were sportier models in tonneau-shaped steel cases, such as the A384, and on the other, more classical round cases in steel or gold, most notably the A386.
Released in 1971, the A3817 was the exception to the rule. It combined the sportier steel tonneau-shaped case of the earliest steel El Primero references with the striking tri-colour dial of the A386, resulting in a unique and appealing aesthetic that continues to resonate with vintage chronograph enthusiasts. Given that only 1000 of the A3817 were ever produced, it remains one of the most distinguished, elusive and sought-after references among the early El Primero watches.
The Chronomaster Revival A3817 is crafted in the same angled tonneau-shaped case with pump-style pushers as the original, using historical blueprints and reverse-engineering to preserve the original proportions and finishes. Zenith waited two years after the launch of the El Primero in 1969 before introducing the iconic tri-colour dial to its sportier tonneau case, albeit with a slightly different execution in both function and aesthetic when compared to the A386. Like its progenitor of 1971, the Chronomaster Revival A3817 features a white lacquered dial with chronograph counters done in the instantly recognizable tones of grey and blue, with the running seconds counter at 9 o’clock done with blue markers, indicated by the single blue hand on the dial. The outer tachymeter scale also serves as a pulsometer, an especially handy and precise function provided by the high-frequency 5Hz (36’000 VpH) escapement of the El Primero movement. The seconds track is done in a pyramid pattern affectionately nicknamed the “shark tooth” scale, which enhances legibility with a distinctly retro touch.
Through the open display case back, one of the few differences between the original A3817 with a solid steel case back and the Revival model, one can admire the legendary El Primero high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre that has remained a staple among chronograph movements for over 50 years.
Completing the retro look and feel of the Chronomaster Revival A3817, two strap options are proposed: the first is the steel “ladder” bracelet, a modern remake of the Gay Frères bracelets that became emblematic of the early El Primero watches; and the other is a light brown calf leather strap that will develop a patina unique to each wearer.
The Chronomaster Revival A3817 is undoubtedly a welcome addition to the collection for those who appreciate one of the rarer early steel El Primero references, faithfully reproduced with all the charm and performance of the original.
The Chronomaster A3817 is exclusively available at Zenith Boutiques around the world as well as its online shop from May 2021.
Further reading