Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Watch Review
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon, released at Watches & Wonders 2021, is an extraordinary timepiece, produced by one of the world’s most prestigious Maisons. Carl Eady provides an in-depth analysis of Louis Vuitton’s ultimate travel accessory.
LVMH watches
Founded as a purveyor of travel goods back in 1854, Louis Vuitton has witnessed many changes, mergers and acquisitions along the way. Today, it is a subsidiary of one of the world’s largest luxury holding companies. Under its roof, LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey) currently boasts seventy-five ‘houses’ across multiple luxury sectors, including fine wines, Haute Couture, leather goods, perfumes, jewellery and even luxury yachts and hotels. Certainly, LVMH has an impressive portfolio. In the watch segment, the group has acquired impressive names such as Bulgari, TAG Heuer and Zenith. However, it wasn’t until 2002 that the first watch appeared bearing the Louis Vuitton name. It was an imposing black and gold chronograph, sporting a distinctive case shape (inspired by Japanese taiko drums) and was aptly called ‘Tambour’, the French word for ‘drum’. To this day, Tambour’s remain the mainstay of Louis Vuitton’s watch collection.
Like many brands, Louis Vuitton called upon the expertise of established movement and component manufacturers when creating its first watches. Indeed, Zenith’s legendary ‘El Primero’ powered Louis Vuitton’s inaugural chronograph. Whilst Zenith’s input gave the watch credibility, there was internal recognition that Louis Vuitton needed its own manufacturing capabilities in order to be a ‘Manufacture’.
La Fabrique de Temps
Under the stewardship of industry veteran Hamdi Chatti, Louis Vuitton acquired the specialist movement manufacturer, La Fabrique de Temps (Time Factory), in 2011. Three years later, Louis Vuitton acquired expert dial maker, Léman Cadrans. Slowly but surely the Maison secured the necessary talents to become a fully integrated Manufacture.
During its relatively short existence, a surprising amount of freedom has been given to the design teams and the brand has gained an enviable reputation for its innovative displays. Pieces such as the Tambour Spin Time introduced eye-catching spinning hour markers, an innovative detail that remains popular to this day. As well as offering watches blessed with prepossessing features, Louis Vuitton has demonstrated it can also deliver functionality. For instance, in 2004, a yacht timer, the Tambour LV Cup Régate, was launched to celebrate the brand’s long-standing association with the prestigious America’s Cup.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève
In 2020, Louis Vuitton unveiled the outrageously styled ‘Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève’. It featured a uniquely modern lightweight outer case fashioned from Carbostratum®. This consisted of 100 layers of carbon, arranged randomly, subjected to heat and thereafter milled to the desired shape. Finally, the carbon overlay fitted over a grade 5 titanium frame and was cleverly coupled with an openworked face. Despite a price tag pushing well into six figures, it proved very popular.
Luxury travel has always been an intrinsic part of Louis Vuitton’s DNA. It is not surprising, therefore, that its patrons, who succumb to a peripatetic calling, wish to accompany their journeys with a suitable timepiece of sufficient stature and functionality. A year on from the ‘Curves’ launch, the brand unveiled a new model, dedicated to travel, ‘The Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon’.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon – case
The case of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is certainly unconventional. Extrapolated from the geometrically phenomenal ‘Möbius strip’, its subtle stretching and bending of the circular form is true to the creative spirit of the brand. The bezel and sapphire crystal are shaped to form a convex dome, creating an eye-catching arena-like structure around the dial. Whilst the morphing of the case shape may be subtle, the dimensions are unequivocally bold. The case of the Tambour Curve GMT is very masculine, measuring an imposing 46mm in diameter, suiting those individuals who prefer their watch to make a statement.
Whilst the GMT’s case options are not quite as light as the brand’s earlier models made from ‘Carbostratum®’, they are made from Grade 5 Titanium, a lightweight alloy known for its low mass. As an alternative to the all-titanium look, there is a two-toned case option with the prominent lugs presented in 18k pink gold with matching crown and pushers. On the reverse side, an exhibition caseback grants sight of the LV 82 calibre within.
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon shuns the engraved ‘Louis Vuitton’ lettering found on the case edge of previous Tambour pieces. In so doing, this new case looks far more sophisticated. Whilst the case doesn’t fanfare the identity of its maker, one glance at the dial and the model’s origins are clear. Indeed, this timepiece is 100% Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon – ultra-contemporary dial
In keeping with the ultra-contemporary look of the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon, the dial exhibits a wonderful sense of depth and unites some extraordinary details. A black shot blasted skeletonised grid sits upon the dial. Beneath each grid is a contrasting brushed metal base (pink gold or titanium). For ‘next level’ adventurers, the brand has also fashioned one of the dials from exquisite Gibeon meteorite, sourced from Namibia.
The hour markers prove particularly interesting, sloping downwards from the top of the flange to the flat areas of the dial. Fashioned from solid blocks of Super-LumiNova, or baguette diamonds if you prefer a more opulent option, they sit atop a raised gold bed. The hour and minute hands are a simple, elegant baton-shape and are more functional than flamboyant. They are partially skeletonised and half-filled with Super-LumiNova®. Furthermore, they are supremely legible and cleverly mimic the hour markers, delivering a cohesive display.
The GMT function is presented on a small dial at the 3 o’clock position. Featuring the brand’s interlocking LV logo, it sports a small yellow arrow at the base of the ‘V’, indicating the home time. It is one of the easiest GMT indications to set, adjusted with a simple click of the forward or backward pusher. This is the first GMT in the Tambour Curve collection, so naturally, it is a strong talking point, though given that it is sharing centre stage with a flying tourbillon, it cannot expect to hog all the limelight.
Located at 9 o’clock, an aperture reveals the eponymous flying tourbillon. Its scale and position opposite the GMT display confer an agreeable dose of symmetry. The complication’s cage is V-shaped, honouring the work of Louis’ grandson who adopted the ‘V’ logo during his time at the helm. Rotating 360° every sixty seconds, the flying tourbillon delivers a hypnotic element to the dial estate.
Louis Vuitton LV 82 Calibre
To power the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon, La Fabrique du Temps has developed the highly precise LV 82 Calibre. This self-winding mechanical movement, in common with the brand’s other high-end pieces, is regulated by a flying tourbillon. This form of tourbillon eschews an upper bridge, granting superior views of the escapement, regulating organ and cage in motion. The movement has a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) and will run autonomously for 65 hours once fully wound.
When viewed through the exhibition caseback, the 28-jewel LV 82 Calibre shuns traditional movement finishing, adopting a minimal style in keeping with the watch’s modern character. The large semi-circular rotor is skeletonised, complementing the dial, and is finished with fine linear brushwork. Blackened bridges sit beneath the rotor. These are shot blasted, delivering a fine matt finish, and secured with mirror polished screws.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon – strap
Louis Vuitton is synonymous with leather goods, therefore it is refreshing to see the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon paired with a rubber strap. This provides the perfect accompaniment to the watch and reinforces the model’s contemporary persona. The sturdy black band offers comfort and practicality, especially in hotter climes. The Louis Vuitton name is embossed into the rubber and the band is secured with a folding clasp bearing the LV logo.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon – closing thoughts
There is much to admire in Louis Vuitton’s latest high-end timepiece and given the prestige of the brand, it will certainly attract attention from the firm’s loyal followers. However, as with any design that seeks to push boundaries, the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is likely to polarise opinion.
For many purists, two-tone watches can often prove a challenge. Consumers are becoming much more educated when it comes to Haute Horlogerie and may prefer more traditional movement decoration, such as ‘anglage’ and ‘mirror polishing’ on various components. A solid rather than skeletonised dial would also prove an interesting option and may proffer even greater legibility.
However, there is no question, the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon is certainly fit for purpose as a luxury travel companion. The inclusion of a GMT complication, that is effortlessly easy to set, a beautifully executed tourbillon, a daring case design and the exquisite hour markers are all worthy of commendation. What is beyond doubt is that the intriguing design of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon will attract admiring glances wherever the wearer chooses to visit, even the world’s most select destinations.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon
- Case: Titanium, diameter 46 mm, height 13.15 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Case: Titanium and pink gold, diameter 46 mm, height 13.15 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Case: Titanium with meteorite dial, diameter 46 mm, height 13.15 mm, water resistance 5 ATM (50 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, GMT and flying tourbillon
- Movement: LV 82 Calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 29 jewels; power reserve 65 hours; components=201
- Strap: Black rubber strap made paired with a titanium double folding buckle
- Price: Price on application