Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons Watch Review
Recently, at London’s WatchPro Salon, Patrik Ulm exhibited the Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons 1809-6. During this event, the model caught the eye of Carl Eady prompting him to discover more about this high-end brand.
Charles Girardier Watch
Charles A. Girardier was born in Geneva in 1759. Watchmaking was firmly in his blood, with his father passing on his considerable horological skills. Upon his father’s death, Charles had the good fortune to inherit his house in Fleurier and, along with it, an impressive collection of antique clocks. Through much experimentation and guidance, rather than formal horological schooling, he equipped himself with the necessary skills to establish his own workshop aged just 21. Despite his tender years, he made the decision to sign his creations Girardier l’Ainé (The Elder) perhaps in a bid to elevate his status and project an air of superiority. With hindsight, this was unnecessary, as the quality of his work was admired by many watch aficionados, so much so that in 1809 (referenced in the model’s name), he was awarded the accolade ‘Maître Horloger’ (Master Watchmaker).
Just a year later, his body of work was recognised by the Society of Arts of Geneva. His reputation attracted a distinguished clientele, including royalty, who clearly admired Girardier’s technical prowess and the exquisite dials gracing his pocket watches. Executed in fine enamel, the dials depicted rural life, hunting scenes and even erotica, which was in vogue during this time. As well as fine hand painting, Girardier’s dials also featured mechanical art, termed ‘automata’ or ‘Jacquemarts’. This legacy has since influenced the design of modern-day Charles Girardier creations.
Girardier died in 1839 but, thanks to their exceptional quality, many of his accomplished works still exist today. It is due to the preservation of one of his timepieces, held at ‘Greenway’, the Agatha Christie museum in Devon, West England, that the Charles Girardier name has been given a new lease of life. It was on a visit to the museum that Patrik Ulm was transfixed by Girardier’s creation. Indeed, such was the magnitude of his enchantment that he embarked on a journey to resurrect the brand.
In a remarkably short space of time since his fortuitous encounter, Patrick Ulm has achieved incredible success with a collection of timepieces worthy of the Charles Girardier name. One highlight in the company’s history came in 2020 when the Swiss firm enjoyed success at the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève. The Maison secured the top prize in the Ladies Complication category for the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse’ Fleur de Sel.
The brand’s Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ collection comes in a number of beautiful iterations, for both men and ladies, all with playful complications which uphold the spirit of Girardier. The sophisticated, decorative techniques of Métiers d’Art are again evident throughout the Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons 1809-6.
Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons dial
The dials created for the modern-day Charles Girardier’s timepieces all encompass artisanal and horological excellence. In the case of the Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons 1809-6, two large circular apertures sit atop each other in a figure of eight and pay homage to the mechanical prowess of Girardier l’Ainé. The figure of eight appertains to the pseudoscience of numerology, being a symbol for eternity, infinity, prosperity and wealth.
This model features a recessed circlet beneath 12 o’clock, within which are beautifully polished C and G gold letters that pivot on a single axis and are interwoven to form the company’s logo. As the owner’s wrist moves into various positions, an oscillating weight hidden beneath the dial causes the letters to rotate in separate directions, creating the Mystérieuse signature. This resets itself as soon as the watch is read in the ‘normal’ vertical position. Interestingly, Charles Girardier, like an increasing number of brands, now offers bespoke products. In this instance, clients have the opportunity to specify up to three personalised initials in the aforementioned recess beneath 12 o’clock. Finally, a stunning ‘flying tourbillon’ is positioned at 6 o’clock and rotates 360° every minute.
The Grand Feu enamel dial is created by taking a simple golden baseplate and hand decorating it with eight layers of enamel powder, all subjected to 800° C. The resultant appearance includes a decorative Chevron pattern which exhibits a sublime sense of depth. It is a lengthy process, with each dial taking approximately five days to complete, but the resultant earthy tones and striking pattern provide a wonderful backdrop for the gold dauphine-shaped hands and faceted hour markers.
Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons case
The case of the Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons 1809-6 is finished in 18 K rose gold. Measuring 41 mm in diameter, the case combines a highly polished bezel with fine brushwork on the lugs and caseband. The thickness of the bezel gives the watch a masculine air, while the lugs are short and elegantly curved, coaxing the strap to hug the wrist and fit comfortably. The look is completed with an elaborately formed onion-shaped crown emblazoned with the brand’s logo.
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass to the front and rear of the case ensures clear sight of the dial and the Calibre 1809 within.
Charles Girardier Calibre 1809
To power the Signature Mystérieuse collection, Ulm sought out the high-end atelier ‘Timeless’ in Geneva. Eager to meet Ulm’s technical and aesthetic requirements, the specialist firm created the self-winding ‘Calibre 1809’. With its ‘one minute’ tourbillon, a highlight of the watch, the brand has also chosen to reveal it to the rear, via an exhibition caseback. This rotating mechanism is surrounded by four German silver bridges all finished with an elegant frosted effect, achieved by the application of silver powder. Each bridge also sports a degree of bevelling and is secured with heat-blued screws.
The energy for the automatic movement is harnessed using a bi-directional peripheral weight. Its design also grants unbroken views of the elaborate tourbillon. Beating at 4Hz, the Calibre 1809, once fully wound, will run autonomously for 42 hours.
Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons strap
The strap is fashioned from rich brown leather. It’s hand-sewn in Geneva and enlivened with vibrant blue stitching, delivering a playful note to the watch. A highly polished, micro-adjustable folding buckle securely affixes the timepiece to the wearer’s wrist.
Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons – closing thoughts
It is almost unheard of for a brand to go from a standing start and achieve the quality of watchmaking proffered by Charles Girardier. Patrick Ulm should be congratulated for his achievements. By remaining true to the adventurous spirit of Girardier L’ Ainé, producing dials that combine automata and fine enamel work, the Swiss entrepreneur has created a hugely impressive body of work.
The ability to change interlocking initials in the ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ proves inspired. It illustrates how the world of luxury is evolving, especially with regards to bespoke elements. With the technical capabilities of the engineers at Timeless and Ulm’s aspirations to adapt Girardier’s creativity for a modern-day audience, it will be fascinating to see what will ensue over the coming years.
Further reading
https://charles-girardier.com/
Technical specification
- Model: Charles Girardier Tourbillon ‘Signature Mystérieuse’ Chevrons 1809-6
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 41 mm; height 12.2 mm; water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front; exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours; minutes; flying tourbillon
- Movement: exclusive Calibre CG 1809; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 Vph (4Hz); 32 jewels; power reserve 42 hours; 308 components.
- Strap: brown leather with folding clasp and blue stitching
- Price: 80,000 CHF (RRP as of 11.1.2022)