Time Æon Foundation Naissance d’une Montre 3 – trickledown watchmaking
In 2019, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud announced it would be working with the Time Æon Foundation to produce the ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’. The project is intended to provide a vehicle for imparting know-how and skills that will eventually trickle-down to future generations of watchmakers.
Time Æon Foundation – established in 2007
Early in the new millennium, Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey and Philippe Dufour, all leading lights in the world of Haute Horlogerie, came to a startling realisation. As the watch industry collectively rushed towards mass production and automation, traditional skills were at risk of being lost forever. Indeed, several machines that were used in yesteryear are increasingly becoming redundant and the individuals capable of using them are diminishing in number. As a result, the three men established the Time Æon Foundation in 2007.
Initially, the Foundation decided to recruit a student and impart knowledge to him/her. It was intended they would make a timepiece using traditional manual methods. Ultimately, the student, with their amassed skills and knowledge, would then go on to share this expertise with others, perpetuating traditions for future generations.
In 2009, Michel Boulanger, a watchmaking teacher based in Paris, was selected as the first recruit. He began work on ‘Naissance d’une’ Montre 1’ (Birth of a Watch). This watch was officially launched at SIHH 2012.
Naissance d’une Montre 1 – SIHH 2012
I recall visiting the pop-up workshop at SIHH 2012 where both Michel Boulanger and Philippe Dufour were in attendance. I watched Michel drill a base plate using a device resembling a violin bow. The resultant finish looked very different from a modern plate produced using a CNC machine.
Clearly eager to convey the expertise required to use this machine, Mr Dufour invited me to ‘have a go’. I was required to turn a wheel with one hand at one speed while simultaneously operating the bow with my other hand at a different speed. I confess that I cannot remember which hand I used for each task or the relative speed of each operation. However, having produced a mass of metal swarf together with a destroyed base plate, I quickly established that this artisanal technique requires superb hand-eye coordination, empathy for the materials employed and a bowing action worthy of Yehudi Menuhin. At the time, I remember Mr Dufour saying he felt it was ‘his duty to ensure such skills were not lost’.
Naissance d’une Montre
While Michel Boulanger embarked on this professional journey, he spent much time travelling between his workshop in France and La Chaux-de-Fonds. It was in this latter city, famous for watchmaking, where he received instruction from Greubel, Forsey, Dufour, et al. The resultant watch from his extraordinary endeavour was termed the ‘Montre École’ (School Watch). Historically, trainee watchmakers produced a School Watch as part of their apprenticeship, however, this practice is sadly less common these days.
The brief for the Montre École was to produce ‘an understated, rounded wristwatch driven by a hand-wound three-hand movement and featuring a tourbillon mechanism’. Moreover, another stipulation was the watch had to encompass ‘extreme hand craftsmanship’ even on parts that weren’t visible.
The inaugural watch was auctioned by Christie’s in Hong Kong and raised $1,461,507 which was used to finance both ‘current and future projects’.
Naissance d’une Montre 2 – Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey
The Foundation’s second project involved Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, two young watchmakers who shared a passion for historical watchmaking machines and tools. Indeed, over the years, the duo has amassed many examples. Buser and Devanthey established a company called ‘Oscillon’ and embarked on a project to make a watch, a pièce unique, entirely crafted using traditional ‘hand-made’ techniques. As well as receiving financial support from the Time Æon Foundation, the creative duo were able to count on the support of Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, Felix Baumgartner and acclaimed watch designer, Martin Frei.
From the outset, it was agreed the project, ‘Naissance d’une’ Montre 2’, would uphold watchmaking traditions while at the same time embracing contemporary design. By setting aside modern-day industrialisation, Buser and Devanthey could enjoy the creative freedom to make lone components and fully exploit their ingenuity without the restraints of ‘minimum orders’. Indeed, the men set out to make their watch with tools used in the 1950s.
Housed in an intricately-shaped case, the resultant watch is equipped with an inverted movement. The horological feast, presented front of house, includes ‘a constant-force regulating organ system with its differential, a large balance wheel with an extraordinary shape, fitted with four arms, as well as hours and minute at the centre’. In addition, a sizeable power-reserve indicator is positioned at the rear of the watch.
Time Æon Foundation Naissance d’une Montre 3 – Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud
In 2019, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard and President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud announced the latter firm would be working on the next project with Time Æon Foundation.
Image (left to right) – Daniel Bolognesi — Chopard watchmaking responsible & Naissance d’une Montre 3 project coordinator, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele — Chopard co-president & Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud president and David Bernard — Time Æon Foundation director
Assigned with the name, ‘Naissance d’une Montre 3’, the approach was slightly different to that of the first ‘Birth of a Watch’. Instead of imparting knowledge to one student, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele wanted the project to develop the skills and know-how of several individuals. His objective was the same as that of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, namely to ‘ensure the art of watchmaking lives on’. Likewise, Mr Scheufele wanted to make a timepiece using only traditional, manual techniques, thereby upholding the founding principles of the Time Æon Foundation.
When the Chronomètre FB1 was released in 2015, it was endowed with a chain and fusee mechanism, a characteristic of Berthoud’s marine chronometers, produced for the French Navy during the 18th century. This system is a type of constant force device, ensuring the power from the barrel and subsequently delivered to the escapement remains uniform, thereby augmenting chronometry. Since the Maison was revived in 2015, the chain and fusee mechanism has been featured on several modern-day Ferdinand Berthoud models. Needless to say, the Naissance d’une Montre 3 will also feature a chain and fusee mechanism. Indeed, upholding the sequential approach employed on the previous Time Æon Foundation projects, ‘Act I’ of the project was to unveil this historical mechanism as a key aspect of the Naissance d’une Montre 3.
‘Act II’ involved the Manufacture acquiring the necessary tools and machines for the project, mindful that all tasks would be performed by hand. As such, ‘five pieces of equipment dating from the 1950s and 1960s have been brought together in a new venue designed to promote artisanal work: the “Hand Made” space’.
The inventory of period equipment includes ‘a 1960 Schaublin 102 Lathe, used to fashion circular components: shafts, fusees, pillars, pinions, gears, barrel drums, pins, winding stems, screws, and the like’.
A 1960 SIP jig borer, an Ewag machine and an Aciera F3 milling machine also enjoy pride of place within the dedicated facility located within the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. Put simply, there’s not a CNC or wire erosion machine to be found in this microcosm of artisanal excellence.
Historically, watchmaking students spent much time making their own tools, however, all too often, this skill becomes forgotten after working in an industrial setting for a period of time. Thankfully, in the “Hand Made” space, ‘the experts from the firm’s different departments will use only tools that are themselves also custom-built – and handmade’.
Time Æon Foundation Naissance d’une Montre 3 – moving forward
Having agreed to include a fusee and chain mechanism and, thereafter, procuring the tools and machines to make the ‘Naissance d’une’ Montre 3’, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is now fully engaged in ‘Act III’ of this ambitious project.
The Maison plans to complete its first timepiece, a three-hand watch, in 2024 with the aim of ultimately producing 11 timepieces in total.
Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud & the Time Æon Foundation
Since 2007, the objectives of the Time Æon Foundation have always been clear:
- Index and catalogue endangered crafts.
- Preserve the crafts associated with watchmaking excellence and help pass them on to new generations.
- Help protect the world’s watchmaking heritage.
- Inspire people to take up watchmaking as a profession.
- Support the training of future independent watchmakers wishing to promote watchmaking excellence.
When the Time Æon Foundation joined forces with Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, the watch brand agreed to appoint personnel from various departments within the Chopard Group. These individuals have since been tasked with acquiring the expertise to make Naissance d’une’ Montre 3 and, thereafter, transmit this knowledge to other staff members.
Time Æon Foundation Naissance d’une Montre 3 – closing remarks
The unrelenting march towards greater automation may lead to greater production yields, however, this inevitably comes at a cost.
The dumbing down of an industry will diminish its allure. Highly prized, traditional skills are at risk of being lost as cutting-edge technology rears its head. Although historical machines, tools and techniques require a greater understanding when contrasted with their modern-day alternatives, this artisanal triumvirate often bestows a unique appearance seldom found with mass-produced alternatives.
Without the work of the Time Æon Foundation and brands such as Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, it is inevitable that some knowledge will be forgotten and some of watchmaking’s heritage will fade away forever.
Ferdinand Berthoud recently published a newsletter providing a ‘behind the scenes’ update on its Naissance d’une Montre 3 project. One passage of text caught my eye, ‘Knowledge is built up, often passed on, but sometimes lost. Restoring such knowledge is not an idle pursuit; it’s a duty and a responsibility’. The word ‘duty’ stood out, it was the same sentiment expressed by Philippe Dufour when I spoke to him at SIHH 2012 whilst I was sat, busily destroying a base plate.
It just goes to show that the Time Æon Foundation has united several kindred spirits who wish to pass on amassed knowledge and learned skills to the next generation. Indeed, by cherishing the past, the future of watchmaking will inevitably shine brighter.