Breitling Top Time Triumph
The Breitling Top Time Triumph is the first watch to bear the names of both the Swiss watch brand and the British motorcycle manufacturer. Despite the brilliance of the Breitling Caliber B01, the Grenchen-based firm has selected a third party movement and with just reason. Beyond its mechanical composition, this latest chronograph is a real looker with a becoming ice-blue dial enlivened with a bowtie motif.
When it comes to chronographs, Breitling is one of the leading players in the market. In 1934, Willy Breitling had the inspired idea of placing two pushers on the right flank of the case. Prior to this invention, chronographs had a lone pusher fulfilling the roles of start, stop and reset. Willy’s idea has never been bettered and most modern-day chronographs subscribe to his intuitive design.
In 2009, Breitling unveiled the Caliber Breitling 01, a Manufacture movement par excellence. Fully integrated with a column wheel and vertical coupling, this in-house chronograph movement was capable of whetting the appetite of any self-respecting horophile. The specification of the movement promised stutter-free starts and a creamy-smooth push piece action. Indeed, there has always been much to like about the Caliber Breitling 01.
Last year, Breitling released the Top Time Deus, a retro-themed, bi-compax chronograph, housed in a 41mm stainless steel case. Interestingly, the brand from Grenchen did not equip this model with its fabulous Caliber Breitling 01. On this occasion, the Swiss marque selected the Breitling Caliber 23, a third party movement sourced from ETA. This self-winding movement, the ETA 7753, is fully integrated, cam actuated and employs an oscillating pinion.
Purists may lament the watch brand’s decision to pass over the Caliber Breitling 01 in favour of a third party movement, however, the cost of producing the in-house option would have positioned the Top Time Deus in a different market segment. Indeed, while a cam can be stamped, a column-wheel requires labour intensive machining.
Nevertheless, based purely on its looks alone, the Breitling Top Time Deus was über desirable. I remember discussing its appearance with a friend who works for a competing brand. We both agreed the Top Time Deus was an extremely handsome watch. Indeed, the model, limited to just 1500 pieces, was shortlisted for last year’s GPHG ‘Petit Aiguille’ prize.
Now, Breitling has done it again, making a chronograph endowed with the same Breitling Caliber 23. But, does it have the same bewitching face? Oh yes, the new Breitling Top Time Triumph is devilishly handsome. Think David Gandy in his best tux and you’ll get the idea.
Breitling has collaborated with the British firm Triumph, producing two dual-branded watches and a spectacular motorcycle. This latter fire-breathing motorcycle is limited to just 270 examples. The owners of said motorcycles can complement their twin-wheel express with an exclusive version of the Breitling Top Time Triumph. However, those horophiles that prefer to travel on four wheels should not view the ‘regular’ model as anything less than stunning. Both dual-branded models feature a sublime ice-blue dial which is enlivened with a bowtie motif.
Priced at a very palatable £4500 (RRP as at 21.2.2022), the rationale for using the affordable Breitling Caliber 23 makes a lot of sense.
The brand’s press release
Meet the Top Time watches and Speed Twin motorcycle behind a spectacular new collaboration inspired by 1960s café racer culture.
In the mid-1960s, auto-racing was having a heyday, and a whole subculture had sprung up around “café racers,” stylish motorcycles, used to literally transport their riders from hip café to hip café.
Willy Breitling set out to capture the speed-driven style of the day with a completely new take on the timekeeper. The result? The Breitling Top Time, an unconventional chronograph designed for “young and active professionals.” It quickly became the watch of choice for a sporty in-crowd of men and women equally drawn to the watch’s bold proportions.
Today that freewheeling 1960s café racer spirit is back in a spectacular new Top Time collaboration between Breitling and British motorcycle brand Triumph. Now in its 120th year, Triumph combines historic craftsmanship with contemporary design to create its classic motorcycles.
“Triumph’s heritage and modern-retro aesthetic are just two of the many things we have in common,” said Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. “Their blending of tradition with technology is completely in sync with what we do.”
For their debut collaboration, Breitling is producing a Top Time Triumph watch with a distinctive brushed finish in the bowtie motif nicknamed “the Zorro dial” by Top Time collectors. Triumph, meanwhile, is launching 270 co-branded motorcycles—the Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition—whose buyers will have the privileged opportunity to purchase a special owner’s version of the Top Time Triumph, this one with a sunray dial and engraved caseback featuring the individual number of the bike.
The stars of both watches are their ice-blue dials. This unique colour has two major references: a blue Triumph Thunderbird 6T from 1951, and a rare, blue-dialed Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 from the 1970s.
Features include a subdued racing-themed calfskin leather strap that lets the hero dial shine; Breitling and Triumph logos that sit subtly at 12 and 6 o’clock; oversized mushroom pushers that allow for easy control over the chronograph’s stop-start and reset functions; and a high-contrast tachymeter scale that provides clear legibility of speed readings. The watches are powered by the Breitling Caliber 23, a COSC-certified chronometer with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. And one more cool feature collectors will love: The casebacks are etched with a detailed design sketch of Triumph’s parallel twin engine.
Of the co-branded watch, Triumph CEO Nick Bloor said: “This collaboration is born out of a shared philosophy of bold and original design. The Top Time Triumph brings that uncompromising style and craftsmanship together.”
At a 41mm diameter, the Top Time Triumph is, like the original, a fit for both sexes. For fans of the Triumph brand and prospective owners of the Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition motorcycle, it’s an absolute must have.
Triumph Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition
Only 270 of these motorcycles will ever be made. Here’s a closer look at their exceptional co-created design:
Polychromatic Blue scheme
Complementing the dials of the Top Time chronometers, the colour scheme was inspired by the Triumph immortalized in the legendary 1953 biker movie The Wild One.
Premium specification
Higher specification, fully adjustable Öhlins piggyback twin rear suspension units combine with all of the latest generation Speed Twin performance, capability and technology for the greatest Speed Twin ride ever.
Unique engine detailing
Billet-machined aluminium clutch and alternator embellishers with a dark anodized finish showcase an exquisitely machined Breitling logo.
Premium leather seat
Perforated black leather with contrasting grey stitching complements the Top Time Triumph watch strap and features an elegantly embroidered Breitling “B.”
Custom instrument faces
Co-designed by Breitling, the motorcycle’s speed and RPM gauges take their styling cues from the Top Time Triumph dial design.
Further reading