Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 Watch Review
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 is the latest iteration of the hugely popular men’s dress watch. The inaugural Calatrava, the Ref. 96, was released in 1932. Almost 90 years later, the Genevan Maison unveiled two new references bearing the historic name. Carl Eady delves into the history of the Calatrava. Furthermore, he appraises the latest generation model which includes a brand-new calibre.
Jean and Charles Henri Stern
Given the status and adoration that Patek Philippe enjoys today, it is incomprehensible that in the early 1930s, the brand was facing severe financial troubles. Despite having an enviable clientele and a reputation for creating watches of undoubted quality, it was serving a relatively niche market and failing to garner mass appeal.
In the midst of the Great Depression, the brand was suffering declining sales and was racking up a pile of unpaid bills. Still in the hands of the Philippe family, the company knew that survival would depend on going into partnership. Fortunately for the brand, in the wake of some aggressive approaches from would-be suitors, they were rescued in 1932 by white knights, Jean and Charles Henri Stern, then owners of the dial manufacturer ‘Stern Frères’. As long-standing suppliers to the brand, the brothers were well-versed in the cultural values of the company and quickly became major shareholders. They identified a number of key changes which were required in order to reverse the fortunes of Patek Philippe. The brothers sought to broaden the brand’s appeal by introducing a commercially viable watch with universal appeal.
Calatrava Ref. 96
The Stern brothers enlisted the help of English horologist David Penney, whose sketches of an elegant, understated and minimalist design, inspired the brothers to produce the inaugural ‘Calatrava’, which was named after the company’s iconic logo registered back in 1887. Known as the Ref. 96, this beautifully simple watch was clearly inspired by the Bauhaus ‘form follows function’ doctrine, which had dominated the world of design in the previous decade.
Image – Ref.96
The dial of the Ref. 96 dial was uncluttered, with elegantly facetted gold batons for the hours, gold dauphine-style hands and tiny golden dots to denote the minutes. The inclusion of a ‘small seconds’ display at 6 o’clock was a comparative indulgence on what otherwise proved an exemplar of simplicity. At just 31mm, slender integrated lugs and a simple, flat gold bezel provided both the blueprint and benchmark for generations of sophisticated dress watches.
The Stern brother’s acquisition of Patek Philippe and the introduction of the Ref. 96 would prove instrumental in reversing the fortunes of the Genevan firm. To this day, the Stern family proudly retain control of the brand, which is now in the rudest of health. Furthermore, some nine decades after its introduction, the Calatrava remains an incredibly popular collection. Over the decades, the design of the Calatrava has received several updates and yet it has always remained a classically styled dress watch.
LeCoultre movement
The original Ref. 96 featured a hand-wound LeCoultre movement. Commercially, the initial and most logical transition instigated by the Stern brothers was to equip the Ref. 96 with an ‘in-house’ calibre. This was achieved just two years later in 1934, when Jean Pfister, the brand’s new Technical Director, introduced calibre 12”’120. This in-house movement was beautifully executed, with much of the gear train displayed amongst expertly bevelled and striped bridges. It would remain the template for Calatrava movements for nearly forty years until it was superseded by the caliber 215 PS.
Image – caliber 215 PS
Patek Philippe Calatrava design
Despite many attributing the success of the Calatrava to its design simplicity, Patek Philippe has never let allowed its creativity to be constrained. Numerous changes, some radical, some more subtle, have seen the Calatrava presented in an endless procession of beautiful forms. There have been a multitude of case finishes, hand styles, hour markers and dial configurations employed all helping to preserve the Calatrava’s extraordinary appeal.
Calatrava hobnail pattern
Above all, one recurring attribute has never failed to stir the passions of the brand’s loyal followers. The hobnail pattern, known as ‘Clous de Paris’, has made numerous appearances ever since it first appeared on the 1934 Ref. 96D (D standing for Décor). This pattern comprises a series of pyramidal squares adorning the bezel, granting a three-dimensional profile. ‘Clous de Paris’ decoration has graced the cases of the most iconic Patek Philippe timepieces, including the 1985 release Ref. 3919, which ran for two decades and helped the brand through the ‘quartz crisis’ when many other firms floundered. In recent times, the Genevan Maison hasn’t employed the hobnail design very often, save for its inclusion on the case band and the upper dial of the Grandmaster Chime (Ref. 6300). After a 3-year period, the Clous de Paris motif returns.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 – case
At 39 mm, the case of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 is modestly sized by today’s standards, albeit comparatively large when contrasted with the 1932 model, the Ref. 96 with its 30 mm case. Despite its undoubted presence on the wrist, its slender proportions (just 8.1 mm thick) ensure this new incarnation remains the epitome of elegance. The integrated lugs are long and curvaceous, clearly deriving inspiration from the original Ref. 96. To ensure widespread appeal, the model is available in either 18K rose gold (Ref. 6119R-001) or 18K white gold (Ref. 6119G-001) providing devotees with a difficult choice to make. Whilst Calatrava traditionalists may well favour the warmth of rose gold, the white gold case set against a black dial should appeal to younger clients.
As one would expect from one of the most luxurious watch brands in existence, the execution of the Clous de Paris on either case option proves flawless. Painstakingly guillochéd, the resultant myriad of diamond-polished pyramid-shaped squares plays with every available chink of light to dramatic effect. In addition to being aesthetically striking, Clous de Paris adds a wonderful tactility to the watch that I suspect many owners will find irresistible.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 features a ‘box shaped’ sapphire crystal to the front, affording sight of two subtly different dial variants which are determined by the case material selected. To the rear, an exhibition caseback shows off the wonderfully decorated, new ‘30-255 PS’ movement.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 – dials
The rose gold model, Ref. 6119R-001, has a ‘silvery grained’ dial. Its soft tone provides the perfect backdrop, ensuring effortless legibility. In contrast, the white gold version, Ref. 6119G-001, is matched with a charcoal grey dial with a ‘vertical satin finish’ which, depending on the angle of the light, can present as grey or a sombre black canvas.
The display encompasses sublime proportions. Nestling just inside the case perimeter is a slender minute track, punctuated by tiny golden dots, presented every 5-minutes. Applied ‘obus’ hour markers are yet another respectful nod to the original Ref. 96. Diamond polished and multi-facetted, their style perfectly complements the hobnail bezel and draws the eye towards the centre of the dial.
The hour and minute hands are dauphine-style and prove wonderfully graceful. The look is completed with the inclusion of a small-seconds indicator in the traditional 6 o’clock position. Housed in a circular frame and sectioned into quadrants, this represents a playful tiptoe into avant-garde design.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 – Caliber 30 255 PS
With much dial refinement evident, it would be easy to overlook the fact that Patek has chosen the Ref. 6119 to usher in a spectacular new movement. With its crystal-clear exhibition caseback, the wearer can view the Caliber ’30 255 PS’ and become immersed in the rarefied world of Haute Horlogerie.
The finishing is exemplary, with exquisite Côtes de Genève and bevelling on each of the bridges. The architecture is dominated by two large bridges underneath which sit the two golden mainspring barrels. The inclusion of two barrels, working in parallel, delivers an impressive overall power reserve of 65 hours. In addition, the balance is equipped with Patek’s ‘Gyromax’ system, the Maison’s proprietary free-sprung balance. By rotating weights on the spokes of the balance, the moment of inertia alters, thereby changing the rate. This system greatly improves the rate stability and simplifies the precise adjustment of the rate. The hand-wound caliber 30-255 PS delivers impressive accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds in 24 hours.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 – straps
For the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119, the Maison has stuck with tradition, opting for highly polished alligator leather straps. A deep natural brown item accompanies the rose gold case, while the white gold model has been paired with a black strap. For a touch of nostalgia, the gold prong buckles share the same shape as those designed for the American market by Henri Stern during his reign as Patek’s president.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119 – closing thoughts
Leonardo Da Vinci is attributed with the quote, “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication”. It is, however, one of the hardest design challenges to achieve, but one that Patek Philippe has repeatedly mastered since the inception of the Ref. 96 Calatrava. Over the years, the Swiss Maison has given much freedom to its designers in order to ensure the Calatrava remains at the forefront of luxury watchmaking.
Nevertheless, the design language of the Ref. 96 can still be seen in these latest models. Indeed, I suspect many purists will be delighted that the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119 is infused with DNA from the original Ref. 96, a model which revived the firm during its darkest hours. From a practical stance, the introduction of the new Caliber 30-255 movement is of equal significance. Superior to its predecessors, such as the 215 PS, it can be viewed via the exhibition caseback. It’s a stunning example of refined finishing that delivers a significant increase in the power reserve, thanks to its twin barrels.
These additions to the collection certainly add a new dimension to an already diverse portfolio and will help to ensure that the Calatrava remains the benchmark for dress watches for the foreseeable future.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119
- Case: White gold (6119G) or rose gold (6119R); diameter 39 mm; height 8.1 mm; water resistance to 3 ATM (30 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds
- Movement: Caliber CHR 30-255 PS caliber; hand-wound movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 27 jewels; power reserve min. 65 hours
- Strap: Alligator leather with prong buckle
- Price: £23,680 (RRP as of 4.3.2022)