Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
The historical Maison from La Chaux-de-Fonds has just unveiled the Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition, a one-off creation produced for a worthy cause. Featuring an evolution of the brand’s groundbreaking Constant Escapement, this neoteric expression of Haute Horlogerie proffers exceptional rate stability. Recently, Angus Davies visited the company’s headquarters and tried the watch on for size.
Luc Pettavino
As a parent of two children, I cannot think of anything worse than outliving either of them. It’s a nightmare that languishes in the back of every parent’s mind as soon as their newborn emerges from the delivery suite.
In 2000, Luc Pettavino, the former Managing Director of the Monaco Yacht Show, along with his wife, Monique, were informed their son, Paul, just four years of age at the time, had Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD). While it would have been understandable if Luc had hidden away from the World, overwhelmed by the magnitude of this grave situation, he chose to confront the illness head-on.
Only Watch
Luc Pettavino co-founded the ‘Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM)’ in 2001, just one year after receiving the diagnosis of his son’s condition. Simultaneously, he conceived ‘Only Watch’, a memorable public-facing name for the charity’s money-raising efforts. Luc’s idea was for watch brands to create unique, one-off timepieces for free that would be sold at auction.
Initially, Antiquorum, the prestigious auction house, headquartered in Geneva, agreed to stage the auction, again for free. The rationale was simple, to raise as much money as possible for research into DMD, a genetic disease weakening the muscles of one in 3500 boys.
The inaugural auction was held in 2005 and, thereafter, subsequent auctions have been held on a biennial basis. Over the years, numerous brands have participated in the prestigious charity event, giving their time, and most notably, their watches for free. As well as Antiquorum, other auction houses have come forward, again offering their services at no cost to the charity. These include Patrizzi & Co, Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo, and Christie’s. The list of partners extends to suppliers of Champagne, catering, display showcases and venues. This combined generosity reveals a gentler side to the world of commerce.
Sadly, Paul Pettavino passed away in November 2016, aged just 21. Nevertheless, Luc has never wavered from his desire to search for therapeutic solutions to DMD.
The sole beneficiary of Only Watch, the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (AMM) is a cost-efficient organisation. Its running costs are less than 1% of auction proceeds, leaving the remaining amount to fund research into DMD. Since it was established, Only Watch has raised approximately €100M. Throughout his journey, Luc has been able to count on the support of HSH Prince of Albert of Monaco, a regular presence, often pictured by his side.
Girard-Perregaux Casquette – Only Watch Edition
Girard-Perregaux has been a loyal supporter of Only Watch for many years, crafting a series of one-off timepieces. The charity auction has gained a reputation for fuelling creativity, evident with several brands unveiling new, highly inventive expressions of horology. For example, in 2021, Girard-Perregaux collaborated with Bamford Watch Department, reimagining the Maison’s iconic model of the 70s, the Casquette.
Image – Girard-Perregaux Casquette – Only Watch Edition
The resultant charity watch featured a red sapphire glass and LED, details that strongly resembled the 1976 original. However, the pièce unique also featured a new movement, proffering additional functionality, as well as a cutting-edge carbon-fibre case incorporating Grade 5 titanium pushpieces.
Image – Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0
Incidentally, having received a positive reaction to the charity watch, Girard-Perregaux went on to release the Casquette 2.0, a further interpretation of the 1976 classic. Housed in a black ceramic case, weighing a mere 107 grammes and limited to just 820 pieces, the Casquette 2.0 proved a huge hit, promptly selling out.
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
This year, Girard-Perregaux revisits another model from its back catalogue, the Constant Escapement L.M. Released in 2013, after five years of extensive research, the avant-garde exemplar of Haute Horlogerie received wide acclaim when it was released. Recognised for its ingenious solution to the so-called ‘constant force problem’, the timepiece went on to win the much-coveted ‘Aiguille D’Or’ at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horologerie Genève) in the same year. I will return to this groundbreaking watch shortly, but first, what is the ‘constant force problem’?
Constant force problem
For many years, watchmakers have tussled with the problem of constant force. When a watch is fully wound, the force from the spring barrel, passing through the gear train, ultimately serving the regulating organ, is invariably too great. Conversely, as the energy within the barrel wanes, there is a lack of power reaching the regulating organ, impairing precision.
A constant force mechanism ensures the force supplying the regulating organ is uniform. The rate remains stable irrespective of the energy held within the barrel. Assuming the movement is correctly regulated, it will deliver incredible chronometric performance.
Over the years, clock and watchmakers have conceived an array of mechanisms to deliver constant force, including the fusée and chain, Geneva stopworks and remontoir d’egalite. However, Girard-Perregaux masterminded an ingenious device using high-tech silicium technology, creating a mechanism that pulses the regulating organ with a consistent dose of energy.
Image – Girard-Perregaux Constant L.M
The Maison’s inventive solution, the Constant Escapement, was truly revolutionary at its unveiling in 2013 and the intellectual know-how underpinning the Constant Escapement L.M remains protected with several patents.
Image – Girard-Perregaux Constant L.M
An up-to-the minute evolution of the Constant Escapement L.M.
This year, Girard-Perregaux has unveiled an evolution of its prize-wining 2013 model, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition. This pièce unique will be auctioned in support of the biennial auction on the 5th November 2023.
Image – Girard-Perregaux Constant L.M
The new watch features even more patented technology, yet contains fewer components, a clear indication of how optimising a design can deliver advancement. Unlike its forbear of 2013, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition is a COSC certified chronometer. Once fully-wound, the movement will run autonomously for seven days, one day longer than its predecessor, further demonstrating that Girard-Perregaux hasn’t rested on its laurels.
A different look
While some entries in the Only Watch auction embrace a new dial colour or case material, Girard-Perregaux has chosen to go much further with its one-off model. On the 2013 watch, the hour and minutes were presented on an off-centre dial, however, on this exclusive 2023 model, the indications are positioned centre-stage, imparting information in a large-screen format.
Consistent with the 2013 model, this Only Watch entry presents an escapement spring, with a buckling blade at its centre, in the lower half of the display, indulging curious eyes with a fascinating dynamic performance. However, with this latest reference, this elaborate collection of parts is supported using the brand’s Neo bridges, presented in a sumptuous golden hue.
Housed in a pink gold case, the diameter of the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition measures 3mm less than the 2013 model. Moreover, despite measuring 45mm in diameter, the watch appears much smaller courtesy of its short curving lugs. The black rubber strap fitted to the model is paired with a buckle featuring an ingenious micro-adjustment system, allowing the wearer the opportunity to fine tune the size to achieve the optimum wrist-fit.
Symmetry – respecting GP tradition
While the Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition is unequivocally avant-garde, it subscribes to the Maison’s traditional predilection for symmetrical design. The famous three gold bridges, first seen in 1889 on a prize-winning pocket watch, exploited symmetry to glorious effect.
Forming an imaginary line from 6 o’clock to noon, the Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition subscribes to the aforesaid formula. The twin barrels sit at 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock, the twin escape wheels (yes, this model has two) straddle the imaginary axis. Girard-Perregaux has positioned a power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock and counterbalanced this with the addition of text a 3 o’clock. Every dial element contributes to a harmonious whole.
Fusing modernity and tradition
Throughout the composition of this charity watch, Girard-Perregaux has juxtaposed traditional and contemporary elements. The ‘box’ sapphire crystal imbues the model with a contemporary vibe and invites light to bathe the dial with a rich glow. The dauphine-style hands, a traditional means of expressing the time, are openworked, feature black nickel treatment and incorporate luminescent fill, culminating in a contemporary aesthetic. Interestingly, Girard-Perregaux has repeated this look, with black suspended, luminescent indexes that project from the minute track, appearing to almost float above the dialscape.
Closing thoughts
Having seen this watch at close quarters and trying it on for size, I could not fail to notice the complexity of its creation. The Swiss marque has skilfully navigated between the pillars of tradition and modernity, taking its own route to success. Each element is highly original, but everything coalesces wonderfully.
The resultant watch is comfortable to wear, appearing to shrink in size when affixed to the wrist. The design of the lugs and the strap’s micro-adjustment system confer an ergonomic union with the wrist. However, the headline act is undoubtedly the Constant Escapement, a mechanism that supplies the regulating organ with a uniform dose of energy, thereby delivering incredible rate stability.
The Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition is a pièce unique, created for a worthy cause. Along with other one-offs from various watch brands, currently numbering 62 entries in total, Only Watch demonstrates a kinder, friendlier face to commerce and serves as a lesson to us all to consider the greater good.
And finally, based on the vast amount of effort the brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds has expended on this model, I suspect this won’t be the last time we see GP’s Constant Escapement.
Further reading
https://www.girard-perregaux.com/
Technical specification
- Model: Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement Only Watch Edition
- Reference: 93510-52-3280-5GX
- Case: pink gold, diameter 45 mm, height 14.80 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central seconds, power-reserve indicator
- Movement: GP09200-2196, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz), 29 jewels, power reserve (minimum) 7 days, 266 components.
- Strap: black rubber with a fabric effect
- Buckle: pink gold triple folding with micro-adjustment system
- Price: to be auctioned at Only Watch (5.11.2023 – Geneva)