Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar Watch Review (2022)
The inaugural version of the Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar was released in 2009. Presented in the neo-classical style advocated by Abraham-Louis Breguet, this masterpiece has always had a timeless allure. Therefore, it came as a surprise when the Swiss marque revisited the reference, releasing two new versions of the model. However, Breguet devotees can relax, the model now looks even better than before.
Compulsive behaviour
In England, there was a long tradition of comedians telling ‘mother-in-law’ jokes, portraying them as mean-spirited battleaxes. Thankfully, such stereotypes and ill-judged witticisms are a thing of the past. Personally speaking, I’m very fond of my mother-in-law and she often accompanies my wife and I as we embark on a relaxing Sunday afternoon drive, taking in local beauty spots. However, as a keen horticulturist, she often implores us to stop at the nearest garden centre, where she feels compelled to purchase a variety of plants and annoyingly trail soil into my otherwise pristine car.
On balance, I can’t say too much about her compulsive behaviour as I find it difficult to walk past a jeweller’s window without eyeing a watch or two. On some occasions, I’ve even been known to cross the threshold and try on a couple of watches for size. My passion for watches rivals my mother-in-law’s love for plants and I suspect I will forever be obsessed with the staccato sound of a Swiss lever escapement.
Abraham-Louis Breguet – a multi-talented individual
One of my biggest horological obsessions is the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823). I remain in awe of his exquisite creations, produced in an era predating CAD, CAM, CNC, wire erosion or profile turning machines. His ideas were skilfully rendered to paper and subsequently crafted with deft use of hand, but his talents were not one-dimensional. Breguet was indeed a talented watchmaker, but he was also an innovator, a consummate businessman and an aesthete. Several of his inventions, some conceived nearly 200 years ago, are still in use today.
Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar – a timeless beauty
The inaugural version of the Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar was released in 2009. Subscribing to the neoclassical style for which Breguet is known for, it was endowed with a glorious guilloché dial featuring an off-centre hour and minutes display, moon phase, day, date and small seconds indication. Each element was sympathetic to Monsieur Breguet’s creations of the 18th and 19th centuries, but clearly adapted for the wristwatch.
Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar – 2009 release
While Abraham-Louis Breguet famously patented the tourbillon and also conceived numerous other ingenious mechanisms, this modern-day Breguet shuns complexity in favour of artisanal craftsmanship and aesthetic charm. Indeed, it’s the comparative simplicity, when contrasted with the Maison’s high complications, that actually heightens the appeal of this model.
Given the 2009 release still looks fresh and applicable to the present day, one has to question what changes has the Maison made? Allow me to elaborate.
Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar – a new look for 2022
Firstly, the Clous de Paris hobnail motif is now finer, a characteristic seen on some of the brand’s other recently launched models. Holding the watch between forefinger and thumb, the main dial surface resembles silk, charmingly delicate and wonderfully fine. What proves surprising is that this ethereal appearance is achieved by taking a gold dial and executing various guilloché patterns using a traditional rose engine lathe. This process is time-consuming and unforgiving. Quite simply, there is no margin for error.
The interior of the off-centre dial is adorned with Clous de Paris and framed with an hour track encompassing satiné circulaire and sauté piqué. The small seconds display shares the aforementioned Clous de Paris canvas. Beyond the off-centre dial, the remaining areas of the display are appointed with grain d’orge, while the moon phase indicator plays host to a myriad of refined details.
With regards to the moon phase indicator, Breguet state: ‘The gold moon is hand-hammered and the clouds surrounding it have been given a fine sandblasted treatment with a matt texture. Its sky is coated with a blue lacquer composed of spangles subtly revealing the stars depending on the angle from which the timepiece is viewed.’
Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar – guilloché dial
The resultant guilloché dial is exquisite with each pattern wonderfully defined and discrete from neighbouring elements. Indeed, the delineation between each section of the dial is beyond reproach.
There are two apertures, both biased towards the upper reaches of the dial, displaying the day and date. These indications both employ bold, blue dials. They are significantly different from the models released in 2009 and imbue the composition with a tasteful smidgen of midnight blue, matching the nearby moon phase display.
Breguet devotees will be pleased to see that Roman numerals, blued Breguet-style hands and the legendary secret signature, all make an appearance centre stage.
Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar – the case
This latest version of the Classique 7337 Calendar is 39mm in diameter, matching that of the 2009 release. This is a size which is currently on-trend and I suspect will remain popular for years to come. The caseband fluting and slender welded lugs will, once again, appeal to my fellow Breguet obsessives. To the rear, the watch is fitted with a pane of sapphire crystal, revealing more of the Maison’s notable artistry.
The model is offered in a choice of 18-carat white or rose gold and comes presented on a colour-coordinated alligator leather strap.
The Calibre 502.3QSE1
Examine the Calibre 502.3SQE1 via the exhibition caseback and the first thing you are likely to notice is the oscillating weight. Positioned slightly off-centre, it is adorned with grain d’orge, again executed by hand using a rose engine lathe. The bridges, appointed with Côtes de Genève motif, include polished jewel and screw sinks and are adorned with sublime anglage.
The automatic movement does hold a couple of additional surprises. Firstly, the barrel has no cover, allowing the wearer to admire the mainspring in various states of tension. Secondly, Breguet has equipped the pallet lever with silicon horns. This material is not susceptible to corrosion, magnetism, temperature changes or, courtesy of its low frictional properties, wear.
While the movement encompasses some modern-day know-how, it remains reassuringly classical and worthy of the Breguet name.
Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar – closing thoughts
Breguet was courageous when it decided to revisit the Classique 7337 Calendar (2009 version) and change what many Breguet devotees considered to be perfection. However, the brand’s boldness has been vindicated. This masterful study in textures, proportions, colours and lines upholds Abraham-Louis’s reputation for accomplished design while encompassing some modern-day know-how.
Certainly, this new model is a tad more contemporary than its predecessor, but it remains faithful to Breguet’s neo-classical style.
Idée fixe, compulsion and obsession are all descriptions that can be used to describe my fixation for watches and, most pertinently, Breguet. This latest version of the Breguet Classique 7337 serves to validate my fondness for the marque and my extreme respect for Abraham-Louis Breguet. Moreover, this watch indulges my horological fetishism, a passion that even surpasses my mother-in-law’s love of plants.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Breguet Classique 7337 Calendar
- Reference: 7337BR/12/9VU (18ct rose gold) / 7337BB/12/9VU (18ct white gold)
- Case: diameter 39 mm; height 9.95 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours, minutes, day, date, off-centred chapter ring, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre 502.3 QSE1; self-winding movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); power reserve 45 hours.
- Strap: Midnight blue alligator leather strap for the white gold version and mysterious brown alligator leather for the rose gold model.
- Price: £39,300 (RRP as of 21.9.2022) – price applies to both versions