Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph
Angus Davies provides an in-depth review of the Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph. This watch features an interesting 20-second retrograde seconds hand and freely shows many of the movement components via a partially open-worked dial.
Compteur de Tierces
My first encounter with the Swiss brand Louis Moinet was earlier this year when the company presented the Compteur de Tierces to a small group of invited journalists. This timepiece was the first chronograph ever produced, dating back to 1816. It features a super fast frequency of 216,000 vph (30 Hz), representing a mind-boggling technical feat. Indeed, some two hundred years later, only a few other maisons have matched the dizzying alacrity of the central chronograph seconds hand. Quite simply, I would liken it to the McLaren P1 cruising at speeds of over 200mph when everyone else is chugging along in Ford Model Ts. This historical chronograph has a modernity befitting the 20th century.
Image – historical Louis Moinet clock circa 1810
Recently, whilst touring Neuchatel, I grasped the opportunity to visit Les Ateliers Louis Moinet in Saint-Blaise. I was hungry to learn more about this illustrious name and, within moments of my arrival, I was overwhelmed by the sight of several mouthwatering creations placed in front of me.
Louis Moinet specialises in creating limited series timepieces that capture the aesthetic prowess of the 19th century watches produced by the great man, but tailored to suit a modern-day audience. Despite the re-emergence of the Louis Moinet name some 15 years ago, the company has already secured five Red Dot design awards, a record which, I am sure, will evoke envy in many rival brands.
Louis Moinet 10-second Tempograph in 18-carat rose gold
In 2011, the Tempograph, with its 10-second retrograde display, won the Red Dot design award. The model has a technically exciting movement and a sumptuous dial design. Now, the Swiss firm has released a brand new Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph and its beguiling beauty demands discussion. Indeed, within moments of seeing it, I fell for its abundant charms.
Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph – dial
The Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph is available with a choice of three case variants, grade 5 titanium, 18-carat rose gold or 18-carat white gold, with each version limited to a mere 60 pieces. All the models feature a white off-centre hour and minutes display, positioned in the south-easterly area of the dial.
Gouttes de Rosée hands
The white dial occupies only about 25% of the watch face, yet remains eminently clear and legible. The hours and minutes are imparted with “Gouttes de Rosée hands”, a trademark of Louis Moinet watches and, in this instance, they are presented in a regal blued steel. Roman numerals feature at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, whereas other hours are marked with slender elongated lines. A minute rail frames the white dial, enhancing the ease of use and delineating the border.
Retrograde seconds
An aspect I particularly like about the 10-second Tempograph is the retrograde seconds positioned adjacent to the crown. It reminds me of a ballet dancer at the barre, moving their leg with pointed toe, upwards and downwards in a graceful arc. The retrograde seconds display on the Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph is positioned higher, located in the north-easterly area of the dial. The svelte blued seconds hand traverses a greater range of angles, but proves no less balletic in its motion.
Adjacent 9 o’clock is an openly disclosed gear. It features a coloured indicator, nestled within its spokes, showing each 20-second phase that combines to form one minute. Beneath this, the cam mechanism is freely disclosed. Again, I find myself comparing the Tempograph to a prima ballerina, revealing her every intention with each choreographed movement of her lithe torso.
Indeed, the parallels with a balletic performance culminate with the exposed screwed balance, pirouetting for the delectation of the wearer in a spellbinding combination of clockwise, then counterclockwise dance.
Louis Moinet has brilliantly engaged the wearer with a hypnotic bravura, coquettishly charming the wearer with its artistic prowess.
The finale of this elegant performance is the Clou de Paris guilloché circlet, framing the stylish vista with small pockets of light and shade.
Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph – the case
The Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph has a diameter of 43.50mm and case height of 15.60mm. Yet, despite its substantial dimensions, it feels comfortable in its skin, never appearing unduly large. Moreover, the scale of the case allows sufficient room for each element of the aforementioned dial display to breathe in stylish splendour.
Image – Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph in 18-carat rose gold
Despite being an incredibly beautiful watch, Louis Moinet has not eschewed practicality. This is a watch which is very wearable and grants a very pleasing wrist feel.
Whilst I like the 18-carat rose gold version, I am especially drawn to the grade 5 titanium option. This latter model expertly blends polished and matt surfaces to deliver a very handsome mien.
The crown is framed with a plate, secured with four screws and affixed to the case band. The “independent stem is integrated within a watertight system”. A patent is pending for the know-how and provides a further illustration that, despite being relatively small, this maison continues to invest significant resources into innovation.
The case back is affixed with seven screws and the movement is presented centre-stage via a sapphire crystal.
Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph – calibre LM39
The self-winding Calibre LM39 is a “manufacture-made” movement produced by Louis Moinet in collaboration with Concepto.
The first aspect of the specification immediately noticeable when looking at the watch is the free movement of the oscillating mass. It rotates with amazing alacrity with just the merest hint of motion. This attribute is courtesy of high-tech ball bearings which bestow an incredibly fluid locomotion. Louis Moinet expended much effort and resources developing the “Tempograph technology” with the ingenious display taking three years to bring to fruition. The complication is patented and exclusive to the brand.
This is a complex movement, consisting of 261 parts, all presented to a very pleasing standard. Most notably, the movement is adorned with an unusual, but highly attractive, motif, the “Côtes du Jura” design. Again, it is a design detail unique to the maison and confers a wonderful individuality to the company’s watches.
Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph – closing remarks
I expend much energy searching for timepieces which justify comment. Regular readers of ESCAPEMENT will note that I have eclectic tastes and review watches from the accessible and meritorious to those models which are priced at altitudinously high levels. However, all watches I review on ESCAPEMENT are, to my mind, worthy watches, deserving of praise. The Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph proves to be no exception, for it is a stunning watch, blessed with sublime styling, an interesting seconds display and a notable quotient of ingenuity.
Today’s Louis Moinet watches are a worthy legacy to a great watchmaker of the 19th century and under the aegis of Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO Les Ateliers Louis Moinet, the company’s future looks very bright indeed.
With an array of models that readily tempt me to consider acquisition, I can assure readers that the 20-second Tempograph won’t be the last Louis Moinet timepiece I review on ESCAPEMENT. Indeed, I have fallen for the immense fluidity and grace of several Louis Moinet timepieces, succumbing to their near balletic poise and the immense beauty of its artful designs.
Technical Specification
- Model: Louis Moinet 20-second Tempograph
- Reference: LM-39-20.80 (grade 5 titanium)
- Case: Grade 5 titanium; diameter 43.50 mm; height 15.60mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: hours; minutes; 20-second retrograde seconds
- Movement: Calibre LM39; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 36 jewels; power reserve 48 hours
- Strap: black hand-sewn Louisiana alligator leather strap with crocodile leather lining presented on a stainless steel deployant
- Limited Edition: 60 pieces
- Price: CHF 22,000 (RRP as of 29.9.2014) for the Titanium version