Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G Watch Review
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G was released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders 2022. With its syringe hands and richly textured dial, the 5226G looks very different from its Calatrava stablemates. US-based journalist, Meehna Goldsmith examines the composition of the three-hander (with date) while endeavouring to suppress any acquisitive thoughts.
Cadrans Stern Frerès
If you’re at all familiar with Patek Philippe then you’re most certainly acquainted with the Calatrava. It’s one of the brand’s signatures, perhaps the very definition of a dress watch. But where did the idea for this icon come from?
The year was 1932. The world was at the beginning of the long, harsh Depression. The days of the Roaring 20s, where decadence and fun kicked up their heels, were a hazy fragment of memory. During this year, dial maker Cadrans Stern Frerès purchased a stake in Patek Philippe, with a full buyout completed within the year. Did you spot the ‘Stern’ name? Yes, that is the same Stern family that continues to own the Genevan watchmaker today.
James Ward Packard watch
When the Sterns stepped up to purchase Patek Philippe, the watchmaker was in danger of shuttering its doors. As you can imagine, the global mood at the time was quite sombre. Art Deco, frippery and flappers had been shown the door. These rowdy partygoers were replaced by a more practical and lean aesthetic. In its history, up to that point Patek Philippe had staked out a place creating high-end complicated watches. The (James Ward) Packard pocket watch in 1927 was the most complicated watch of the day.
Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 96
With changing tastes and depleted funds for extravagant purchases, the company had to pivot to appeal to a different clientele with slightly shallower pockets. The Calatrava reference 96, designed by David Penney, offered a clean yet sleek design. Encased in gold, the original featured an ivory dial with applied gold markers and a subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock. Instead of being soldered on, integrated, tapered lugs hugged the wrist for a more tailored fit. The model proved a winner and helped Patek Philippe survive an economic downturn, much like the Royal Oak did for Audemars Piguet during the quartz crisis.
A bit of research pulled up some interesting history I wasn’t aware of. The 1932 Calatrava used a calibre sourced from Jaeger-LeCoultre, but in 1934 Patek Philippe decided to equip the reference 96 with its very first in-house calibre. The Calatrava might be long in the tooth in terms of age, but those classic looks confer contemporary poise and polish.
Patek Philippe Museum
Patek Philippe has an amazing museum filled with many spectacular pieces, produced by the Maison since its founding in 1839. It’s a pretty jaw-dropping experience to see these beauties up close. If you ever go to Geneva, you must make time to visit this amazing place of horological treasures. You can plan your trip on the brand’s website.
Within this extraordinary treasure chest, Patek Philippe finds inspiration for its contemporary collections. Issuing a re-edition would be too easy and lacks imagination. Evolving a beloved design and creating a new model, while still respecting a model’s lineage can prove hazardous, and requires a delicate and considered approach. Brand devotees can be ruthless if they feel betrayed.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G – a sportier appearance
Patek Philippe has been expanding its design language in recent years. When the Genevan firm introduced a pilots’ watch in 2015, the first since the military-issue models of the 1930s, it caused a bit of a stir. It was the first ‘tool’ watch in the best part of a century. Change can be hard when the expectations of fans go in a different direction. However, collectors came around to appreciate the upstart pilots’ watch and welcomed it into the fold.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G – syringe hands
While it’s not a pilots’ watch, the 5266G does exhibit a sportier than usual appearance. The charcoal-coloured textured dial has a fine-grained appearance, which Patek says resembles the body of an antique camera case, and is further enriched with a black-gradient rim. A Chemin de Fer encircles white gold, applied numerals filled with a beige lume that emits a green glow in dark conditions. Like the numerals, the syringe-shaped hands are also crafted from white gold and filled with lume. A date discreetly sits at 3 o’clock, its beige numerals rest against a black background, perfectly complementing the picture. A beige sweep seconds hand completes the scene.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G – hobnail motif
Now, let’s take a look at the well-proportioned 40mm case. Patek is known for using a Clous de Paris hobnail motif to decorate some of its bezels. For the 5226G, that traditional pattern finds a new home, gracing the flanks of the case. It’s not easy to relocate a cherished feature, but Patek has pulled it off with aplomb. Apparently, in order for the pattern to seamlessly encircle the case, the designers had to redesign the housing, integrating the lugs to the rear.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G – Caliber 26-330 S C
Seen through the exhibition case back, the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C, with a 21k gold rotor, keeps the train of the 5226G running on time. And you know how serious the Swiss are about time. A nice feature of this movement is the stop-seconds mechanism for, you guessed it, precisely setting the time.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G – two straps, two looks
Patek provides this model with two different looks, achieved with the accompanying interchangeable straps and secured to the wrist with a white gold prong buckle. One strap comes in beige calfskin with a nubuck finish, while the other is black calfskin with an embossed fabric pattern. This embossed finish imbues the strap with a sportier look that mirrors the dial texture.
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G – closing thoughts
The 5226G veers from the dress watch archetype for which the Calatrava collection is known, but in so doing delivers a breath of fresh air. It manages to straddle both worlds with a design that’s both classic and au courant. Put simply, I want one.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Patek Philippe Calatrava 5226G
- Case: white gold, diameter 40 mm, height 8.53 mm, water resistance to 3 ATM (30 m), sapphire crystal to the front with an exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, central sweep seconds, date
- Movement: Caliber 26-330 S C, automatic movement, 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Power reserve minimum 35 hours / maximum 45 hours.
- Strap: beige calfskin with nubuck finish, hand stiched. An additional strap is also supplied – black calfskin, embossed with fabric pattern, hand-stitched. Both worn in conjunction with a prong buckle
- Price: £31,430 (RRP as of 23.10.2022)