Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A Watch Review
The Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A combines an annual calendar, a 60-minute chronograph and a stunning ‘on-trend’ dial. Carl Eady takes an in-depth look at this highly sophisticated chronograph from the great Swiss Maison.
Antoine Norbert de Patek & François Czapek
The origins of the Swiss ‘Patek Philippe’ brand date back to 1839, when former Polish cavalryman Antoine Norbert de Patek joined forces with watchmaking compatriot François Czapek to form ‘Patek, Czapek & Cie’. The initial partnership lasted only six years before the company ceased trading. Patek brimming with horological passion, sought a new business partner, Jean Adrien Philippe. Jean had recently made a name for himself as the inventor of a watch that could be wound without a key; he subsequently enhanced the functionality of his invention to incorporate a hand setting system (mid 1840s).
Jean Adrien Philippe
It was Philippe’s inventive nature that attracted Patek and the pair went on to form ‘Patek, Philippe & Cie – Fabricants à Genève’, in 1851. From the outset, their reputation for excellence and innovation in all things horological was evident and almost two centuries later the brand has evolved to become the leading player in the luxury watch industry. It has been at the forefront of the market, introducing the perpetual calendar, worldtimer, ultra-thin models and, in 1996, the annual calendar. This latter complication features an ingenious mechanism that requires just one adjustment of the date each year. As February contains fewer than 30 days and varies in length depending on whether the prevailing year is a common year or a leap year, the wearer has to manually advance the date to the 1st of March.
Patek Philippe 5960P
Up until 2006, the brand always presented its annual calendars in something of a dress watch format. That changed with the advent of the 5960P, a platinum cased piece incorporating an in-house self-winding chronograph movement, a first for the brand. With it came a novel dial format that saw the traditional subdials replaced by three large apertures across the top of the dial, articulating the day, date and month. The 12 hour-chronograph was indicated in a single dial at the six o’clock position. At the time of its release, the format was considered quite radical by purists, however, it is rare for a brand with the heritage and pedigree of Patek Philippe to create a design that fails to stand the test of time. The arc-shaped calendar window format is now well established in the ‘Complications’ collection, with current editions in rose gold, white gold and platinum.
Patek Philippe 5905
In 2015, the Genevan marque capitalised on this unique styling by releasing the blue dialled, platinum cased Reference 5905, which introduced a new calibre, marrying an annual calendar with a 60-minute self-winding flyback chronograph. At Baselworld 2019, Patek followed up with a rose gold case housing combined with a sumptuous brown dial. While both are still part of the current collection, delivering sports watch functionality, given their alligator leather straps and precious metal cases, they also sit pretty firmly in the luxury camp.
Patek Philippe 5905/1A
Last year, to capitalise on the modern trend for stainless steel sports watches, the brand introduced the 5905/1A (‘1’ meaning on a metal bracelet and ‘A’ meaning Acier, the French word for stainless steel). Not only did the new 5905/1A deliver a third ‘genuine’ sports casing style for Patek (the others of course being the Nautilus and Aquanaut), it also carried a refreshing and exquisite olive-green dial.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – green dial
At Geneva’s ‘Watches and Wonders’ event in 2021, Patek Philippe sent the watch collecting world into meltdown when it announced the end of its iconic blue dialled Nautilus 5711. As a last hurrah for the 5711, a final run was created, the ultimate ‘Unicorn’ watch, presented with a green dial. This set a trend for the colour which has cascaded down through the watch world ever since. The popularity of the green dial among the Patek fan base proved there was an enormous appetite for the colour.
Depending on the light afforded to it, the dial of the 5905/1A transitions between a deep black hue to a natural olive green. In daylight, its beautiful sunburst motif provides a wonderful contrast with the other dial elements presented. Around the perimeter of the dial, the brand has bestowed the display with a sector dial feel. Two metallic circlets form a track, playing host to the applied white gold hour markers and three calendar windows.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – hobnail hour marker
At the 12 o’clock position, a double ‘hobnail’ hour marker sits above the framed ‘day of the month’ window, in a gentle nod to historical Patek icons that sported the historical ‘Clous de Paris’ finish. A large ’60-minute’ chronograph subdial sits at six o’clock. To contrast the sunburst effect on the rest of the dial, its silvered markings sit adjacent snailed detail. In perhaps the subtlest of features, a tiny aperture towards the base of the dial indicates the day/night, proving useful when setting the watch.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – dauphine-style hour and minute hands
Long elegant dauphine-style hour and minute hands reach out to the hour markers, both of which are filled with a slender but effective line of lume. The central chronograph seconds hand is a simple, very fine needle, remaining at 12 until summoned to action. The dial has been very well thought out and is blessed with a wonderful sense of balance. Furthermore, by keeping the annual calendar functions to the north of the dial and the chronograph register to the south, Patek has ensured the overall composition is supremely legible.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – 42 mm stainless steel case
When the inaugural 5905 Annual Calendar was launched in 2015, it featured a platinum case and, subsequently, in 2019, it was offered in rose gold. The latest Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A exhibits a more youthful and sporty look with its highly polished stainless steel case. In truth, at 42 mm, the case is close to the limit of popular sports watch sizing, and the case depth too is significant at 14 mm. However, despite its wrist presence, it is extremely comfortable to wear.
To the eye and touch, the architecture of the 5905 case is a masterful melange of mesmerising curves. From the concave bezel profile to the hollowed recesses in the tapered lugs and the softened edge of the chronograph pushers, the case is bestowed with the most sophisticated yet subtlest of touches.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – push correctors
For simple adjustment, push correctors for the Annual Calendar sit flush on the left-hand side of the case, whilst on the right, the lozenge-shaped chronograph pushers flank a fluted crown enlivened with Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Cross. To the rear, a pane of sapphire crystal affords sight of the movement with its fine details and exquisite finishing.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H
The caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H sits at the heart of the Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A. Pivoting on tiny ceramic ball bearings, a large unidirectional central rotor, fashioned from 21k gold, is decorated with radial Côtes de Genève, a perlage core and a large engraved Calatrava Cross. Beneath the rotor, each bridge is expertly finished with more striping, bevelling and mirror-polished screws.
Free-sprung ‘Gyromax’ system
Beating at 4Hz, the golden balance wheel features an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring and free-sprung ‘Gyromax’ system. The CH 28-520 caliber keeps time within -3/+2 seconds per day, an assurance that the ‘Patek Seal’ standard of finishing on display is more than matched by its accuracy.
To enable the smooth operation of the chronograph functions, the brand has kept faithful to the traditional column wheel operation, but in order to keep wear and tear (and servicing) to an absolute minimum, it has been paired with a vertical clutch. The architecture gives a crisp, responsive tactility when using the chronograph but also allows for the timer’s seconds hand to run as a ‘running’ seconds.
Flyback chronograph
There is no hacking feature when setting the watch, however, the flyback functionality allows for the second hand to be returned to 12 at any moment, enabling accurate setting. With the chronograph running, the power reserve will deliver some 45 hours on a full wind, extending to circa 55 hours in ‘normal’ mode.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – steel bracelet
The stainless steel 3-link bracelet, a first in this collection, upholds the style of the 5905’s case. It is also beautifully curvaceous, an attribute highlighted with the use of contrasting highly polished outer links set against fine satin brushed centre links. Everything is secured with Patek’s patented fold-over clasp.
Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A – closing thoughts
The Genevan marque’s decision to give the Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A such a modern refresh means it now has three ‘players’ in the fiercely competitive steel sports watch category. Sitting comfortably in the esteemed company of the Aquanaut and Nautilus, this Annual Calendar is arguably the most refined of the trio.
From a functional standpoint, the placement of the full ‘day, date and month’ calendar and the flyback chronograph means the watch has excellent legibility and is therefore extremely practical for everyday wear. The overall design is exceptional, combining a multitude of curved surfaces which deliver beauty and tactility in equal measure. The brilliance of the stainless steel also gives Patek Philippe’s polishing technicians the perfect vehicle to showcase their years of experience.
However, as is often the case with watches from brands that sit at the pinnacle of luxury, pieces such as the Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A are nearly always impossible to obtain, even if one is lucky enough to be able to afford the £47k list price. Delving into the second-hand market, the prices are already at least double, and in some cases pushing on treble, the recommended retail price; although this could bizarrely be seen as a comparative bargain when compared to the £500k plus being asked for a green Nautilus.
Brands such as Patek Philippe have become so successful and their timepieces so desirable as a status symbol, that sadly they seem to edge further and further away from even the wildest dreams of the everyday collector, destined to dwell solely on the wrists of multi-millionaires.
For those lucky collectors who manage to own one, they will readily see the extraordinary horological beauty synonymous with Patek Philippe ownership.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: Patek Philippe Flyback Chronograph Annual Calendar 5905/1A
- Case: Stainless steel; diameter 42 mm; height 14.3 mm; water resistance to 3 ATM (30 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; chronograph; day of the week; date; month and day/night indicator
- Movement: Caliber CH 28-520 QA 24H. Self-winding. 402 parts, 28,800 vph (4 Hz). Power reserve 45-55 hours depending on usage
- Bracelet: Stainless steel with contrasting high polish/satin finishing. Patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured with 4 independent catches
- Price: £47,360 (RRP as of 9.4.2022)