Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold
The Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold were recently unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2023. Both references are presented in a new 42 mm case size, feature an automatic movement, the Calibre A&S6203, and include a becoming white opal off-centre hour and minute display. Angus Davies provides an overview of these latest additions to the Maison’s catalogue.
Arnold & Son shrewdly sidestep obsolescence
While releasing new models often attracts column inches it can undermine the desirability of former references. It is my assertion that true luxury should sidestep obsolescence.
Clearly, I’m not alone in my view. Arnold & Son has released new models over the years but it has never abandoned the horological gems within its product portfolio. Indeed, in recent times, it has made subtle improvements to existing models, often making small upgrades to its in-house movements. Moreover, Arnold & Son has focussed on adding new references that embrace different case materials, dial colours and even gems, without losing the essence of the original design.
Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold – launched at Geneva Watch Days 2023
Last week, at Geneva Watch Days, the firm unveiled two new versions of its DTSB model, the Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum and the DTSB 42 Red Gold. Both models embrace new colourways yet remain refreshingly familiar.
Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold – seconde-morte
The four letters ‘DTSB’ are an abbreviation of ‘Dial-Side True Beat’. This refers to a particular complication termed a seconde-morte or dead-beat seconds. With a regular watch fitted with a Swiss lever escapement, the seconds hand advances three, four or five times per second depending on the frequency of the balance. However, with a seconde-morte, the seconds hand advances in discrete steps, once every second.
This complication can trace its origins to marine chronometers and the measurement of Longitude. Back in the 18th century, John Arnold developed highly precise marine chronometers and was a principal supplier to the British Royal Navy. Longitude is measured in degrees (minutes) and seconds. The seconde-morte allowed mariners to precisely determine the longitude and, by default, the precise position of a vessel.
While the seconde-morte may appear simple to a casual observer, it is actually a complex mechanism. An independent pallet system fitted with a pallet stone, works in collaboration with a thin blade-like spring, causing the seconds hand to advance in precise, one-second increments. Shown dial-side, this mechanism includes an anchor-shaped counterweight fitted to the pallet, reinforcing the maritime theme.
Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold – a new case and the new Calibre A&S6203
The new Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum and the DTSB 42 Red Gold are both housed in a smaller case measuring 42 mm in diameter (former models measured 43.5 mm in diameter). The new models also include a new Manufacture movement, the Calibre A&S6203. This movement is thinner than its predecessor, measuring just 5.54 mm in height, a characteristic that contributes to the modest case thickness of 12.95 mm. Another improvement relates to the power-reserve which is now 55 hours (previously 45 hours).
Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold – a white opal off-centre dial
Upholding the design of the inaugural DTSB, the hours and minutes are presented off-centre. However, in this instance, and consistent with several recently released Arnold & Son models, the dial is made of white opal, conferring a high quotient of elegance. The bridges are positioned front of house and are beautifully polished and chamfered. Furthermore, the movement, visible to the rear, is made, assembled and regulated at the company’s facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Endowed with an oscillating weight made of 22-carat gold, the self-winding movement makes this watch ideal for daily use.
Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold – dials
The Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum is paired with a sunray-brushed dial enriched with a rose-gold PVD treatment, bestowing a glorious salmon-toned complexion. Meanwhile, the DTSB 42 Red Gold comes with a bewitching blue PVD-treated dial.
Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum & DTSB 42 Red Gold – closing thoughts
Arnold & Son does not subscribe to the ‘pile it high, sell it cheap’ business model, preferring to make limited numbers of watches. In this instance, the DTSB 42 Red Gold is limited to 88 pieces and the enchanting DTSB 42 Platinum, my personal favourite, is limited to just 38 timepieces. While the brand dwells in the rarefied heights of Haute Horlogerie, its watches are always keenly priced and these two new models prove no exception with prices starting at CHF 42,600, including taxes.
Once again, Arnold & Son demonstrates the wisdom of pursuing a policy of evolution.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Platinum – 1ATCX.P01A.C200X
- Model: Arnold & Son DTSB 42 Red Gold – 1ATCR.U01A.C200A
- Case: diameter 42 mm, height 12.97 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Hours, minutes, true-beat seconds (seconde-morte)
- Movement: A&S6203 calibre; hand-wound movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 32 jewels; power reserve 55 hours
- Strap: dark blue alligator strap, hand-stitched, paired with a pin buckle in platinum or 18-carat red gold.
- Swiss retail price: – Platinum – CHF 54,400 including taxes (RRP as of 29.8.2023) – 38 timepieces
- Swiss retail price: – Red Gold – CHF 42,600 including taxes (RRP as of 29.8.2023) – 88 timepieces