Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin Collection Excellence Platine Watch Review
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin, Collection Excellence Platine is a work of art. This watch is housed in a 42.5mm platinum case, features a platinum dial and includes the ultimate chronograph, the ultra-complex split-seconds or ‘rattrapante’. Mark McArthur-Christie writes about this model at length and clearly struggles to hide his unbridled respect for its towering specification.
When people know you love watches
If people know you love watches, every now and then someone will say to you, often with a snigger and a nudge, “Why on earth do you need one of those things? If I want to know the time I can look at my phone.” They will do this as though it is, perhaps, some sort of revelation. The same people probably wonder why cathedrals bother retaining choirs to sing evensong when a recording would do just as well and believe that libraries are a relic of a past age. When you come across poor souls like this, take pity on them and show them this watch. If they are not immediately converted, Damascene style, to the One True Faith, there is nothing more you can do for them.
Vacheron Constantin Collection Excellence Platine
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin, Collection Excellence Platine (let’s just call it the Traditionnelle for short) is, perhaps, the most elegant watch to have come off a bench this side of the Longines ref. 6474 and I’ll fight anyone who says otherwise. There are watches that are delightful to look at and others where the movement is technologically innovative – the Traditionnelle is both.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin – case
Let’s start with the obvious bit – the case. The ‘platine’ in the name rather gives the game away. The 42.5 mm case is cut from a block of 950 platinum (as is the dial, but more of that later). Not only is this rather more understated than yellow gold, platinum is around a fifth as heavy, so gives a properly solid feel and heft to a watch case.
The Traditionnelle’s case is completely polished, front, sides and back, lugs and all. It says a lot for VC’s design that this doesn’t result in a slab of blingy. over-shiny metal, just a clean, simple case. Not too thick at just under 12 mm either, particularly given the complexity of the movement. In fact, the only variation from polished metal is in the caseback opener slots (stippled) and its coin-edging. Lugs are 22 mm and the whole thing is water-resistant to 3atm, not that many people will be getting their watch wet doing the washing up, one suspects.
There are just two features relieving the case surface; a single crown with an integral button at 3 and a solo pusher at 2. Push the button on the crown and the chronograph snaps into operation. What appears to be a single chronograph hand is actually two – one behind the other. You can tell which is which as they have different bases, one a crescent the other a circle.
Start the chronograph by pushing the plunger in the crown. Snick the pusher at 2 and one of the chronograph hands stops while the other happily carries on. This lets you time two things at once. So if you are stuck in a particularly tedious meeting, you can time its duration as well as for how long your equally tedious colleague hogs the floor. Another snick of the pusher brings the two chrono seconds hands back together. Stop the plot with the crown plunger. It’s all wonderfully simple and a joy to watch in operation.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin – dial
On the dial – that’s platinum too – you also get 18ct white gold applied hour markers, the VC logo just under 12, three sub-dials and a tachymeter scale. The semi-circular one at 6 deals with the power reserve (48 hours, since you asked) whereas the running seconds is at 9 with the chrono minutes at 3. The scales of the different dials and counters are worth a look. Starting from the bezel and working in, there’s the tachymeter scale, a combined minute/fifths of a second scale and then the subdials. The two subdials are different, with running seconds marked at 15-minute intervals and chrono minutes at 20-minute intervals. The chrono seconds uses a blued hand whereas the running seconds follows the convention of the hour and minute hands in polished 18ct gold – a neat separation of time and timing functions. The whole dial is a fine example of how a watch face can tell you everything you need to know without shouting, fussing or over-informing.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin – Calibre 3500
Then there’s the movement. VC really should think about supplying the Calibre 3500 in a sapphire case with a clear dial; it’s that gorgeous. But it’s not just a beauty to look at, it’s an engineering beauty too. You could probably take any of the 473 parts, mount them in settings and make a decent living selling them as jewellery. If they’re not mirror-polished they’re straight-grained. If they’re not straight-grained, they’re probably circular-grained and have a bit of anglage for good measure. This is yet another VC that you could very happily wear movement-side up (and yes, even use your phone to tell you the time).
There’s nothing as uncouth as a centrally-mounted winding weight to get in the way either. The VC Calibre 3500 uses a peripheral weight in good old, heavy 24ct gold so your view of the movement is unimpeded, enhanced even. It’s engraved too – you didn’t think it was about to be just plain, surely? Interestingly, VC didn’t stick with the “fleurisanne” engraving they chose for the same movement in their Harmony Ultra-Thin. But it’s not just a pretty weight; once the watch is fully powered, it’s designed to stop moving to avoid over-tensioning the mainspring.
At the centre of the movement you can see the clamp that looks after the split-seconds mechanism, controlled by its own column wheel (there are two in total) topped with a VC symbol. The springs guiding it aren’t much thicker than a hair. But when you press the 2 o’clock pusher for the second time, the clamp lets go of the mechanism, and the split-second hand instantly catches up with the main chrono seconds hand. The chronograph uses a lateral clutch AND a column wheel – not something you’ll often see. It has a friction-coupled driving wheel though, so you don’t get that stutter when the chrono first starts.
Even the strap is a triumph of detailing. Not only is it made from Mississippi alligator (one can almost imagine the reptiles queuing up for the privilege), the stitching is a combination of silk and platinum thread. The clasp is – you guessed it – platinum too.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin – closing thoughts
It seems a little odd to talk about a solid platinum-cased, gold winding weight watch as restrained, but that’s exactly what the Traditionnelle is. It’s as understated as a royal blue Bristol but as sophisticated as a McLaren. It’s a watch you could, in theory, wear anywhere without anyone really noticing what you had on your wrist. It’s the sort of watch you buy when you know exactly what you want watch-wise but don’t want to yell about it.
You’ll be lucky to spot one of these in the wild though; there will only be 15 made, selling at $288,000 a pop. By comparison that would buy you two Porsche 911 Carreras with enough change for a very good weekend in Paris. But Carreras are, by comparison, common and weekends in Paris don’t last. Our money’s on the Traditionnelle. We just need a midnight conversation at a crossroads with a chap with a forked tail…
Further reading
https://www.vacheron-constantin.com
Technical specifications
- Model: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle split-seconds chronograph ultra-thin Collection Excellence Platine
- Reference: 5400T/000P-B637
- Case: 950 platinum; diameter 42.5 mm; height 10.72 mm; water resistance 3 ATM (30 m); sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: Hour; minutes; small seconds; chronograph
- Movement: Calibre 3500; self-winding movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 47 jewels, power reserve approximately 48 hours
- Bracelet: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator leather inner shell, hand-stitched with 950 platinum and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales. Folding clasp in 950 platinum with polished half Maltese cross-shaped clasp section
- Price: $288,000 including VAT (RRP as of 19.9.2021)