Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph
The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph is the latest creation from the Jura-based watch brand. Featuring a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel, it unites a day-date display and a chronograph. With its shrewd use of different hues and textures, the Swiss marque has produced a contemporary and sporty watch that also exhibits an extraordinary degree of elegance. Angus Davies examines this latest M-branded model in close detail.
What does ‘Pontos’ mean?
Appraising a brand name inevitably leads one to ponder the origin of the name. The word ‘Pontos’ has an array of meanings in various languages, including ‘bridges’, ‘spots’ and ‘God of the Sea’. However, while the intended meaning of Maurice Lacroix‘s family of watches may be the subject of much debate, there is no question that the Pontos collection has been an important member of the Swiss brand’s product portfolio for over 20 years.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos collection launched in 2000
Since its launch in 2000, the Pontos collection has gradually evolved. The materials used have improved and the finishes have become more refined. This year, at Geneva Watch Days, the Jura-based brand unveiled a new model, the Pontos S Chronograph, which is available in a choice of two dial colours, silvery-white or dark blue. In addition, the would-be owner can select a 3-rows stainless steel bracelet or an ‘M-branded nylon strap with tone-on-tone stitching’.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph – the clue is in the name
The addition of the letter ‘S’ signifies there are notable differences with this latest model.
Updated in 2020, the Pontos Chronograph 43mm, with its traditional steel bezel, remains in the collection. However, the new ‘S’ Chronograph comes with a ceramic bezel, imbuing the model with a noticeably sportier appearance.
Another significant difference with the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph is that at 3 o’clock, it features two apertures displaying the day and date. The regular Pontos Chronograph 43 mm lacks a day indication while the date is shown at 6 o’clock. In my opinion, positioning the day and date at 3 o’clock makes for a cleaner display. Moreover, the location of the day and date indications counterbalance the small seconds display at 9 o’clock, conferring a more harmonious appearance.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph dial
The dial of this Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph differs from many of its counterparts by arranging the dominant counters along a north-south axis rather than the customary east-west horizontal line. By adopting this approach, the dial somehow feels more cohesive.
As stated earlier, the prospective purchaser has a choice of two dial options, silvery-white or dark blue. Interestingly, the different dial hues endow each model with a slightly different persona. The dark blue feels less sporty and is a little more reserved while the silvery-white dial, my preferred option, looks incredibly fresh and is eminently simple to read.
Focussing on my preferred dial, the hour and minute hands are silver-toned and facetted. An interesting departure from other Pontos models is the hands are partially openworked, again underscoring the sporty theme. Both the hour and minute hands are lined with Super-LumiNova®, granting enhanced readability in restricted light conditions.
The baton-style indexes are, once again, silver-toned and facetted. A minute track is positioned on a flange encircling the dial. A rectangular section of Super-LumiNova®, positioned in between the indexes and the minute track, improves nocturnal legibility.
Throughout the dial composition, Maurice Lacroix has masterfully played with colours and textures. The brand’s ‘M’ logo, positioned adjacent to the crown, sits proud of the main dial and exhibits a gleaming, sumptuous appearance. Both the 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph registers are dark grey and incorporate sandblasted centres. Encircling each subdial is a snailed track marked with grey and red strokes. A gleaming silvery circlet delineates each subdial from the main silvery-white sandblasted vista. Maurice Lacroix has also chosen to equip the small seconds display with a sunken, snailed track. Finally, tasteful smatterings of red enliven the display, again reinforcing the sporty appearance of the model.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph – ceramic bezel
The active character of the Pontos S Chronograph is boosted with the addition of a black ceramic bezel marked with a tachymeter scale, a useful device for ascertaining the speed of an object over a known distance. An increasing number of high-end brands are favouring ceramic as it doesn’t fade over time and is scratch-resistant. The brand from Saignelégier has enriched this timepiece with numerous details, some seemingly small when viewed in isolation, but all contributing to the luxury feel and overall considered design.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph – case
Measuring 43 mm in diameter, the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph delivers much wrist presence. The arcing lugs are comparatively short, guiding the strap downwards, almost perpendicular to the watch head, thereby readily encircling the wrist. As well as bestowing an ergonomic union with the wrist, the lug and strap ensemble also make the watch wear smaller than its stated dimensions would suggest.
While the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph is a new model, it includes several historical Pontos design codes. The lugs are stepped, surpassing the often mundane designs of some rival watches, reinforcing the perception of luxury. Moreover, Maurice Lacroix has repeatedly juxtaposed polished and brushed surfaces. This is far more difficult than it may sound. For this aesthetic detail to work, both finishes must be positioned in close proximity to one another yet remain discrete and without the merest incidence of wavy lines.
However, some other design elements have changed. For example, the crown design is new. The twisted fluting found on other Pontos models has, in this instance, been superseded with a new design that incorporates straight fluting.
To the rear of the watch, five screws hold the caseback in place. At the centre of the caseback, a pane of sapphire crystal affords sight of the automatic ML112 calibre.
Some prospective purchasers may deliberate over whether to select the nylon strap or the 3-rows bracelet. However, Maurice Lacroix offers the option of procuring both items at the time of purchase, a feature that can be easily exploited courtesy of the brand’s Easy Strap Exchange system (a simple means of swapping the strap or bracelet for an alternative without the need for tools).
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph – automatic ML112 calibre
The Pontos S Chronograph is fitted with the Calibre ML112, an automatic movement adorned with a combination of Côtes de Genève, perlage and sunbrush decoration. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and the movement contains 25 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully tensioned, the watch will run autonomously for 42 hours.
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph – closing thoughts
By endowing the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph with alternative hues and textures, adding a day-date display, ceramic bezel and a newly-designed crown, the Maison has created a watch that looks very different from its predecessors. However, some things don’t change, consistent with the brand’s ethos of ‘delivering high perceived value’, the quality-price ratio remains impressive.
The design of this model unites two seemingly disparate worlds, namely elegance and sport, granting an impressive degree of versatility, with the watch equally complementing a lounge suit or a pair of jeans. However, this model’s appeal is not merely restricted to its handsome looks. The dial is simple to read, it delivers an array of useful functions and the shape of the case, with its short lugs, proffers a superb ergonomic relationship with the wrist.
Lastly, while the word ‘Pontos’ may signify different things to different individuals, in my opinion, in terms of Maurice Lacroix, the Pontos name has come to symbolise many things, including practicality, style, wearer comfort, elegance and an impressive quality-price ratio. Based on my observations, I predict the Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph will reinforce these attributes synonymous with the name ‘Pontos’.
Further reading
https://www.mauricelacroix.com/
Technical specifications
- Model: Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Chronograph
- Reference: PT6038-SSL24-130-2 (silvery-white dial & nylon strap) – PT6038-SSL22-130-1 (silvery-white dial & 3-rows bracelet)
- Reference: PT6038-SSL24-430-4 (dark blue dial & nylon strap) – PT6038-SSL22-430-1 (dark blue dial & 3-rows bracelet)
- Case: stainless steel; diameter 43 mm; height 15 mm; water resistance 10 ATM (100 m); sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours; minutes; small seconds; day; date; chronograph; tachymeter scale
- Movement: automatic ML112 calibre; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 42 hours.
- Strap/bracelet: nylon strap lined with nubuck leather with butterfly buckle or steel 3-rows bracelet. Both options come with Easy Strap Exchange system
- Prices: Strap + Bracelet – CHF 3,550 including VAT (RRP as of 5.9.2023)