Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel Watch Review
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel pays tribute to the first timepiece crafted in the brand’s Manufacture back in 1997. It showcases the Maison’s exceptional watchmaking expertise courtesy of numerous technical refinements and exquisite finishing. Furthermore, the timepiece, a COSC-certified chronometer, bears the Poinçon de Genève on its case and movement, providing independent assurance of product excellence. Angus Davies provides an in-depth look at this peerless creation, crafted for ‘Haute Horlogerie collectors’.
Chopard Manufacture founded in 1996
In 1996, Chopard took the bold step of opening its own Manufacture in Fleurier. The capital investment required to make in-house movements, including the purchase of CNC and bar-turning machines, would have been substantial. Nevertheless, the brand’s courageous decision has certainly paid off.
Since creating its inaugural Manufacture movement, the Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L (formerly known as the Calibre L.U.C 1.96), Chopard has repeatedly demonstrated to the watch collecting community that it has extraordinary expertise in the field of watchmaking, manifest with lots of silverware sitting in the company’s trophy cabinet.
Chopard and complications
Over the years, the Swiss marque has released several in-house movements endowed with a variety of complications, including the chronograph, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeater. Moreover, the brand has not been afraid to embrace innovation.
Image – Chopard L.U.C 8HF (2012)
Chopard and silicium
In 2012, it released the L.U.C 8HF, a COSC-certified, neoteric timepiece that featured a high-frequency calibre with a cadence of 57,600 vph (8 Hz). The movement, the Calibre 01-09-L, was equipped with various silicium components, including the impulse pin, pallet lever and escape wheel. Silicium, a glass-like material offers several benefits. In particular, it is very light and friction-free. Moroever, the high frequency of the movement confers impressive accuracy as well as superior rate resumption and stability.
Image – Chopard L.U.C 8HF featuring the Calibre 01-09-L
Chopard and crystal gongs
The Chopard L.U.C Full Strike was yet another example of the family firm’s penchant for blue-sky thinking. With this model, the Maison reimagined the minute repeater, a historical complication dating back to the 17th-century. Traditionally, the hours, quarters and minutes were proclaimed with a combination of hammers and steel gongs; however, Chopard chose to do things a little differently. Instead of steel gongs, it chose to integrate crystal gongs within the sapphire crystal front of house. The resultant sound proved notably rich and powerful.
Image – Chopard L.U.C Full Strike
The model’s brilliance was recognised in 2017 with the award of the ‘Aiguille d’Or’ at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Image – Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, collecting ‘Aiguille d’Or’ at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2017
Chopard Lucent steel
Back in 2019, Chopard used a premium steel, Lucent Steel™️ for its Alpine Eagle model. The metal is smelted twice, thereby enhancing its purity. Made in Austria by specialist firm, Voestalpine, the metal proffers several benefits. For instance, it is hypoallergenic and 50% harder than conventional steel, thereby improving its scratch resistance. It also looks different from regular 316L stainless steel, appearing whiter. Furthermore, Lucent Steel™️ is made of recycled steel.
Initially, in 2019, the metal consisted of 70% recycled steel; however, this figure is scheduled to rise to 80% by the end of 2023 and to ‘a minimum of 90% by 2025’. So, not only does this premium steel deliver wearer benefits it also serves to reinforce Chopard’s green credentials.
Chopard return to 1997
Having released a variety of complications over the years as well as incorporating cutting-edge technology, Chopard now invites horophiles to return to 1997. This was the year when the Maison unveiled its first timepiece endowed with a Manufacture movement. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel pays tribute to the past, while simultaneously embracing the present and beyond.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel – dial
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel immediately arrests the onlooker’s attention with its glorious salmon-coloured dial. The allure of the dial is further heightened with the addition of guilloché decoration, gracing the central portion of the display. While some watches employ modern-day plant to execute this intricate pattern, Chopard has respected watchmaking tradition, imparting the dial motif by hand.
Dauphine-style hour and minute hands, formed of white gold, proclaim the time in a clear, seemly tone. The ‘chevron-type’ hour markers, again formed of white gold, sit atop a smooth track. A satin-brushed chapter ring sits beyond the hour track, hugging the periphery of the dial.
The L.U.C 1860 is endued with a small seconds display at 6 o’clock. It is snailed at its centre and framed with a circular satin-brushed track. A white gold, baton-type small seconds hand indicates the running seconds and is appointed with a small circular counterweight. Four circlets of sauté piqué delineate each section of the dial.
A cartouche, located beneath the double indexes at noon, plays host to the ‘Chopard’ name, proclaimed in cursive text. At the base of the dial, just below the aforementioned small seconds display are the words ‘Genève Swiss Depuis 1860’, providing a tasteful reminder of when Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his eponymous firm.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel – case
Measuring 36.5 mm in diameter, the model’s modest case dimensions would have not looked out of place back in 1996 when the Maison inaugurated its Manufacture. Over the last 30 years, purists have witnessed various trends including the release of numerous ticking leviathans back in the early 2000s. By releasing the L.U.C 1860, the Swiss brand has tapped into the prevailing fondness for sub-40 mm watches. At just 8.20 mm in height, the case is elegantly slender.
As previously mentioned, Chopard has chosen to encase this model in its up-to-the-minute, premium steel, referenced with the model’s name. Not only does this metal confer additional wearer benefits, it also plays its part in ‘Chopard’s ongoing commitment to responsible luxury’, a journey the Maison commenced back in 2013.
One of the strengths of Chopard is that it consistently adheres to the same design language. While some brands flit from one trend to the next, Chopard subscribes to timeless styling that confers lasting appeal. For example, the firm often juxtaposes two different case finishes. The caseband and the vertical flank between the horns are adorned with a vertical satin-brush while the bezel and remaining surfaces are presented in highly polished form. This model upholds this Chopard tradition.
The lugs gently arc downwards, coaxing the strap to encircle the wrist. To the rear of the watch is a pane of sapphire crystal provides the wearer with the opportunity to see the movement in all of its glory. The watch is fitted with an anthracite grey calfskin leather strap which incorporates reserved tone-on-tone stitching along with a Lucent Steel pin buckle.
Chopard L.U.C 96-40L movement
The Chopard L.U.C 96-40L movement shares much in common with the Manufacture’s inaugural movement, the Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L. Indeed, just like its antecedent of 1996, the L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel features a 22-carat gold micro-rotor.
In 1996, when Chopard released the Calibre L.U.C 96.01-L, it revealed its incredible watchmaking ambitions. To create sufficient inertia from a micro-rotor is technically challenging. Indeed, only a few brands have been able to surmount all of the potential obstacles. Rather than having a full-size rotor positioned atop the bridges, the micro-rotor sits flush with the bridges, thereby mitigating movement thickness. In addition, the view of the finely decorated movement is not obscured by a full-size oscillating weight, an attribute that will appeal to discerning purists.
The movement is exquisitely finished with chamfered bridges which are also embellished with Côtes de Genève. The mainplate is adorned with perlage and the jewel and screws sit in polished sinks. Both the case and movement are marked with the Poinçon de Genève, an independently audited quality standard. As part of the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève, there must be no traces of machining; criteria this movement clearly fulfils.
The rate is adjusted using a swan-neck regulator, a classical means of altering the effective length of the hairspring and, by default, the rate. While some traditional movements may feature poising screws or timing screws (if a variable-inertia balance is used), the Chopard L.U.C 96-40L is equipped with an annular balance. Poising is done by removing heavy spots from the rim of the balance wheel. The smooth finish of the annular balance mitigates air perturbation, aiding precision. The balance spring is endowed with a Philips terminal curve. By reducing the radius of the outer coil of the balance spring, it breathes more concentrically, improving isochronism.
The Chopard L.U.C 96-40L is equipped with Chopard Twin technology, a term employed by the Manufacture to describe two stacked barrels. While the movement is not fitted with a constant force mechanism, by employing two barrels instead of one, the force serving the escapement will certainly be more consistent, aiding rate stability.
From the outset, Chopard Manufacture has expended many resources in the pursuit of chronometric excellence. In this instance, the L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel has passed the scrutiny of COSC, culminating in chronometer certification.
Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel – closing thoughts
After releasing its first timepiece endowed with a Manufacture movement back in 1997, Chopard has since created numerous expressions of Haute Horologerie. It has produced watches equipped with different complications and has repeatedly shown it is not been afraid of exploring new technologies where they provide advancement.
However, Chopard has also gained an enviable reputation for perpetuating artistic crafts such as the hand-guilloché featured on this model. It has also conceived watches that sidestep fashions or vulgar and outré styling. Indeed, the Maison is known for its considered design that imbues each timepiece with lasting appeal.
In this instance, the Lucent Steel case serves as a foil, allowing the comely salmon-toned hand-guilloché to come to the fore. Unquestionably beautiful, the dial proves effortless to read. Likewise, the movement fulfils all functional requirements superbly while indulging connoisseurs with a delightful mechanical vista finished to a flawless standard.
Throughout my career, I’ve handled hundreds of fine watches, but only a few have come close to the brilliance of the Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel. Quite simply, there are very few examples of ‘Haute Horlogerie’ that surpass the merits of this timepiece.
Further reading
Technical specification
- Model: Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel
- Reference: 168860-3003
- Case: Lucent Steel™, diameter 36.5 mm, height 8.20 mm, sapphire crystal to front and exhibition case back
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre L.U.C 96-40L, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 29 jewels, power reserve 65 hours, certified chronometer (COSC), Poinçon de Genève
- Bracelet: anthracite grey calfskin leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching paired with a Lucent Steel™ pin buckle with L.U.C engraving
- Price: £21,100 (RRP as of 11.10.2023)