Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki Watch Review
Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki comprises three new models, each blessed with a matte green complexion. Building on the success of previous collaborations, the watch brand from Le Noirmont together with acclaimed watchmaker Alain Silberstein, have conceived a new Triptyque for 2023. The bold use of colour makes a welcome return; however, the creative duo have now ventured into new territory by unveiling a keenly priced tourbillon. Angus Davies provides an overview of the Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki, a timepiece that will resonate with many self-confessed horophiles.
The problem with luxury
Growing up as a kid, I would frequently stand outside a car showroom, my nose pressed against the glass, and dream of owning one of the sinuously-shaped sports cars on display. I couldn’t legally drive and my pocket money wouldn’t even stretch to buying a key fob bearing a prancing horse or three-pointed star, nevertheless, my youthful desires were much in evidence. Indeed, while I had oligarch dreams and a schoolboy’s budget, I recognised the lure of luxury from an early age.
As a self-confessed watch obsessive who frequently handles beautiful expressions of Haute Horlogerie, purely in a professional capacity, I’ve seen and touched many exquisite timepieces. However, reminiscent of my salad days, I’m painfully aware they are beyond my pecuniary grasp. Indeed, high complications such as split-second chronographs, perpetual calendars, tourbillons and minute repeaters are usually the preserve of the well-heeled who don’t worry about increasing utility bills and food inflation.
So with this in mind, I’ve become resigned to a life of simple two-handers. However, Louis Erard has, once again, conceived a trio of horological performers that deliver notable creativity and Swiss dependability while at the same time proffering much value for money. It seems there may be hope for cash-strapped horophiles like myself.
Manuel Emch
In 2019, Louis Erard appointed Manuel Emch as the company’s Artistic Director and Strategist. An industry veteran, Emch is clearly a visionary, recognising there is a market for accessibly priced, highly original, limited edition watches. During his time working at the brand, he has democratised hitherto financially inaccessible delights such as hand-guilloché, marquetry and grand feu enamel. The company has also collaborated with numerous A-listers from the watch industry such as Eric Giroud, Konstantin Chaykin and Vianney Halter, conceiving timepieces that stir the soul for comparatively modest sums.
Louis Erard winning formula
Louis Erard endows each model with its own personality while at the same time sharing some components across several references. In fact, if you look at several models you will note the crown, hands and movements are the same. This approach allows the brand to achieve economies of scale, mitigating costs. Moreover, it often produces limited edition models in small numbers, ensuring demand vastly outstrips supply, a policy that ensures prompt sell-through and avoids the cost of holding vast inventories of unsold watches. Lastly, the brand has chosen to work for smaller margins than most of its competitors.
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein
Back in 2019, Louis Erard and acclaimed watchmaker, Alain Silberstein, worked together for the first time, culminating in the release of a regulator, offered in two variants, each limited to 178 watches. The model was inspired by the Bauhaus movement and interpreted in Silberstein’s unique way. It sold like hotcakes, motivating the two parties to collaborate again.
In 2021, three new creations were released, Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. The Triptyque comprised three models; La Semaine, Le Régulateur II and Le Chrono Monopoussoir, each limited to 178 pieces. All models were appointed with a black dial, endowed with blue, yellow and red accents. The cases united both Grade 2 and Grade 5 titanium, blending matte and polished surfaces. Again, the models promptly sold out and were soon traded on the secondary market for prices above list.
The following year (2022), Le Diptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein was unveiled. On this occasion, the offering comprised two models Le Régulateur Louis Erard and La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Blanche, each limited to 178 pieces. In addition, a two-piece set was offered, limited to 56 watches. Dials were dressed in white, again enlivened with red, yellow and blue hues, albeit the latter colour was executed in a darker shade.
Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki – overview
Now, Louis Erard has created three watches in collaboration with its long-time friend, the aptly named series, Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki. As this name implies, the collection comprises a series of models, each presented in verdant tones. These include La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki and the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki, both limited to just 178 pieces each. Unlike the popular triumvirate of 2021, Le Chrono Monopoussoir is set aside in favour of a high complication, Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki. This latter model is only available as part of a three-watch set containing La Semaine and Le Régulateur timepieces and is limited to just 78 examples. It is the tourbillon reference that I focus upon hereafter.
What is a tourbillon?
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) recognised that gravity has an adverse influence on the behaviour of the regulating organ within a watch. His solution was to place the escapement and regulating organ within a rotating cage, driven by the fourth wheel. The cage would rotate 360° once every 60, 240 or 360 seconds. As the cage revolved, any positional errors were negated, augmenting precision. Breguet’s invention, originally designed for use within a pocket watch, was patented in 1801.
Today, the tourbillon is a highly-coveted complication, prized for its circling dance and the tantalising views it provides of various components such as the hairspring, pallet lever and escape wheel all in motion. Such complexity requires the skills of a highly trained watchmaker to bring to fruition, hence tourbillons usually attract commensurate pricing.
Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki – dial
The watch features a matte khaki dial, enlivened with white, red and yellow details. In recent years, Louis Erard has become widely known for making regulator watches. While the brand from the Franches-Montagnes region has an extensive portfolio of models, encompassing different genres/complications, the brand is one of the leading exponents of regulator timepieces. Historically, a regulator, either in clock or watch form, was used as a reference when setting other clocks or watches. Typically, it would feature a dominant minute hand with the hours serving a subservient role.
Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki subscribes to tradition with its voluminous minute hand, albeit the watch looks unequivocally modern. The minute hand engages in conversation with a black, raised minute track featuring a blend of khaki and white minute markers.
The hours are shown in the upper region of the dial, presented on a snailed display. A bold isosceles triangle serves as a hand, collaborating with red and white indexes to impart meaning. At the base of the dial, a large aperture reveals a three-arm cage, the balance and escapement. Louis Erard has chosen to make the opening particularly large, revealing parts of the motion works and gear train. The cage rotates 360° every minute and is fitted with a wavy, yellow seconds hand.
Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki – case
The watch measures a modest 40 mm in diameter and is housed in a combination of microblasted Grade 2 titanium and polished Grade 5 titanium. This latter metal is an alloy which lends itself to polishing, a characteristic Louis Erard has fully exploited. Both grades of titanium are light and hypoallergenic.
The watch is fitted with a red lacquered crown that subscribes to Alain Silberstein’s much-loved design language. Positioned to the rear of the watch, a pane of sapphire crystal grants sight of the movement. The watch is presented on a khaki nylon strap and features a loop and fastener system.
Olivier Mory of BCP Tourbillons
Later, I will discuss the matter of price; however, at this juncture, I feel it is incumbent upon me to say that this model upholds Louis Erard’s egalitarian pricing strategy. With this in mind, it may come as a surprise to learn that the movement is the brainchild of Oliver Mory of BCP Tourbillons. This specialist firm, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland, has gained a reputation for ‘making the inaccessible accessible’. It freely discloses the source of all of its movement components, all of which are Swiss in origin (see image below).
The movement, the BCP T02 Calibre, is hand-wound and will run autonomously for 100 hours. Unlike most watches which feature an index-regulated balance, this movement is equipped with a variable-inertia balance. This latter form of regulation proffers superior precision and, should the watch be subject to a shock, it is less likely to require remedial regulation. In addition, the inertia weights (masselottes) affixed to the spokes of the balance are positioned in-board, mitigating air turbulence, again augmenting precision.
Circular Côtes de Genève motif adorns the three-quarter plate to the rear. By employing a three-quarter plate instead of multiple bridges, the BCP T02 Calibre will be less prone to flexing, aiding reliability and performance.
Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki – closing thoughts
Despite the playful use of colour and shapes, the dial remains eminently simple to read. Louis Erard has masterfully used textures and different depths to further heighten the dial’s visual appeal and aid readability.
Image – my wrist (measuring 19cm in circumference)
The case is not unduly large and proves comfortable to wear courtesy of its low mass. By blending two grades of titanium, the watch juxtaposes two contrasting finishes to glorious effect.
But all roads ultimately lead back to the movement. The BCP T02 Calibre incorporates Breguet’s gravity-defying mechanism, offers 100 hours of autonomy and throws in a variable-inertia balance too. Moreover, it is not imported from a faraway land but crafted using 100% Swiss components.
And so we have the matter of price to discuss. Supplied in a box accompanied by khaki-toned La Semaine and regulator models, the Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki costs CHF 22,222. It’s not an inconsequential sum, but for three watches, one of which is a high complication, it represents incredible value.
The model’s styling is courageous and may not be to everyone’s taste but with only 78 box sets available, and based on past experience, I suspect all of these watches will disappear as quickly as snow in summer.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki
- Ref. 75357TT06.BTT89
- Case: microblasted grade 2 titanium and polished grade 5 titanium, diameter 40 mm, height 11.80 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, centre seconds, mood of the day/date
- Movement: Sellita SW220-1 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 261 jewels, power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: Khaki nylon and microblasted grade 2 titanium, hook-and-loop fastener system for quick adjustment, functional catch spring bars allowing the strap to be be changed quickly
- Price: CHF 4,000 excluding taxes (RRP as of 17.10.2023)
- Limited Edition: 178 pieces
- Model: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki
- Ref. 85358TT06.BTT89
- Case: microblasted grade 2 titanium and polished grade 5 titanium, diameter 40 mm, height 11.80 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Sellita SW266-1 calibre, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 31 jewels, power reserve 38 hours
- Strap: black toad leather with red attachment points, red rabbit leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
- Price: CHF 4,000 (RRP as of 17.10.2023)
- Limited Edition: 178 pieces
- Model: Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki
- Ref. 89356TT06.BTT89
- Case: microblasted grade 2 titanium and polished grade 5 titanium, diameter 40 mm, height 11.80 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100m), sapphire crystal to the front and exhibition case back.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, tourbillon
- Movement: BCP T02 Calibre, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), 19 jewels, power reserve 100 hours
- Strap: black toad leather with red attachment points, red rabbit leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
- Price: CHF 22,222 (RRP as of 17.10.2023)
- Special box set, 78 pieces (comes with La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki & Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Khaki)
