Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 Watch Review
The Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 is a reinterpretation of the first Radiomir prototype created in 1935 which was a precursor to the first military divers’ watch in history, the Panerai Radiomir, released in 1938. Angus Davies delves into Panerai history and also explores the specification of this new limited-edition, vintage-inspired watch.
Giovanni Panerai opens a watch shop in Florence (1860)
In 1860, Giovanni Panerai (1825-1897) opened a watch shop in Florence, forging close ties with various producers of Swiss timepieces. A few years later (approximately 1864-1870), a new family business was formed, Guido Panerai & Figlio. The firm branched into ‘high precision mechanical engineering’ and became an official supplier to the Royal Italian Navy. It is this relationship that set Panerai on a course that ultimately led to its present-day status as a maker of fine Italianate watches.
Radiomir is patented (1916)
The company began making luminous instruments around 1913. These included gun sights, timing mechanisms, depth gauges and mechanical calculators for the Royal Italian Navy. A notable characteristic of these products was the outstanding luminescence they exhibited in dim light. This nocturnal glow can be attributed to the use of a radium-based substance, named ‘Radiomir’, patented by Guido Panerai in 1916.
The first Radiomir prototype (1935)
Back in 1935, Panerai began to supply precision stopwatches to the Royal Italian Navy. In the same year, it was commissioned to make a prototype wristwatch. The Italian-Swiss watch brand has now chosen to honour this timepiece, releasing the Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385, a model I will return to shortly.
First military divers’ watch (1938)
Three years after producing its Radiomir prototype, the Florence-based firm produced the ‘first military divers’ watch in history. Named the ‘Panerai Radiomir’, the watch measured 47 mm in diameter and contained a Rolex movement. Most notably, the strap was affixed to the watch head using wire loop strap attachments, had a screw-down winding crown and was equipped with a luminous dial.
Luminor is trademarked (1949)
Panerai remained at the vanguard of military watch production, continuously improving its products. For example, the wire loop strap attachments were replaced by sturdier horn-shaped lugs in the 1940s. Panerai later trademarked ‘Luminor’ in 1949, a luminescent material that was safer and more visible in restricted light than Radiomir.
Panerai enters the civilian market (1992)
The name ‘Luminor’ would ultimately become familiar to horophiles after the firm began serving the civilian market in 1992 with watches bearing the same name. While the Panerai product portfolio has expanded since 1992, everything can be traced back to the Radiomir and Luminor military models.
Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 – dial
The Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 is new, yet familiar. Presented in a 45 mm cushion-shaped case, executed in polished steel, the watch is generously proportioned, conferring much wrist presence. The scale of the watch affords much room for the limited inventory of functions to breathe, imparting meaning in a highly legible format.
The ‘sandwich dial’ is formed of two layers, one superimposed over the other. The sepia-toned upper layer features cut-out sections that afford partial sight of a luminous lower layer, presented in beige. In this instance, Super-LumiNova® emits a nocturnal glow. This modern-day substance is highly popular due to its high performance and safety. The hands and lower layer bestow a green emission in dim light. Typical of many Panerai watches, the dial features a small seconds display at 9 o’clock.
By using sepia and brown hues, Panerai has imbued the dial with a period look. The hour and minute hands are baton-style, silver-coloured and lined with beige luminescent fill. The hour hand is ‘segmented in half’, a signature detail that can trace its roots back to the 1935 prototype.
Panerai OP logo
The dial eschews Panerai’s ‘OP’ logo, a detail that features widely on the brand’s models. However, the famous logo does appear on the vertical flank of the trapezoidal-shaped crown.
Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 – additional details
The cushion-shaped case has a solid caseback, typical of divers’ watches of yesteryear. A hand-wound movement, the P.6000 calibre, powers the various dial indications and, assuming it is fully-wound, will run autonomously for 100 hours.
Panerai has chosen to fit the PAM01385 with a dark brown Scamosciato calf-leather strap incorporating contrasting beige stitching providing a fitting addition to this harmonious composition.
Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 – closing thoughts
While Panerai has created many neoteric references in recent years and encased several models in new cutting-edge materials, it continues to respect its heritage. In this instance, the PAM01385 upholds the vintage styling of the 1935 prototype with its chosen colourway.
Interestingly, despite its military origins, the Radiomir has never looked utilitarian, indeed, it has always looked handsome. Its cushion-shaped case and wire lugs continue to entice legions of horophiles to join the famous ranks of brand devotees, the so-called Paneristi. However, with just 300 pieces available and numerous Panerai fans around the globe, it is inevitable these watches will sell-out very quickly.
Further reading
Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 – technical specification
- Model: Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385
- Case: AISI 316L Polished steel, diameter 45 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 m); sapphire crystal to the front and solid caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds.
- Movement: P.6000 calibre, hand-wound movement, frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz), power reserve 3 days
- Strap: dark brown Scamosciato calf leather, beige stitching, 27/22 taper, standard length. Trapezoidal polished steel pin buckle
- Price: £4,700 (RRP as of 24.10.2023)
- Limited Edition: 300 pieces – online exclusive