Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon Watch Review
The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon is the latest version of the Swiss brand’s highly innovative Double Independent Chronograph Evolution. Embracing green and yellow hues and featuring a carbon fibre bezel, this new reference looks different to its forebears, while still sharing the same family likeness. However, as Angus Davies reveals, this is not a mere animation of what has gone before but a watch incorporating a number of product enhancements.
Cyrus Watch Review
Most days I receive a number of press releases accompanied by an array of ‘hi-res’ images. In some instances, a quick glance is all that is necessary before ‘the assets’ are despatched to ‘trash’. Conversely, some ‘novelties’ immediately stir my soul with a seductive blend of prepossessing looks and mechanical intellect and I place them in the ‘possible features’ folder.
However, nothing matches the product evaluation process quite as well as a ‘hands-on’ experience. Gripping a watch between the forefinger and thumb while simultaneously holding a loupe to the right eye, provides much information. Indeed, all senses come into play, providing the best means of forming an opinion. Recently, I had the opportunity to wear the Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon, the latest neoteric creation from the exclusive Swiss watch brand.
The culture underpinning a watch brand
Beyond making a near-forensic appraisal of a watch, there is the issue of which firm has made it. I often ask myself questions such as: ‘What is the culture of the organisation that has produced this timepiece?’ How much emphasis does the firm place on marketing, production and research? What are the aspirations of the company? And what values does the brand hold dear?
Jean-François Mojon
I’ve been familiar with Cyrus for a number of years. The Maison was founded in 2010 and I’ve had the privilege of meeting several of its employees, including its famous Technical Director, Jean-François Mojon.
Monsieur Mojon will be familiar to most die-hard horophiles. He is one of only a few go-to experts serving the needs of the watch industry, a fact that was recognised when he was awarded the ‘Best Watchmaker Prize’ at GPHG 2010. Underpinning Mojon’s reputation is his remarkable inventiveness.
Moreover, Chronode, a company Mojon founded in 2005, has been entrusted to make movements, modules and complications for numerous brands. Indeed, the company’s list of clients, both past and present, includes Breva, Czapek, Cyrus, HYT, Harry Winston, Hermès, MB&F, et al. Today, Chronode is part of Cyrus Watches Group and is the internal Manufacture of the brand.
Cyrus culture
Cyrus has gained a reputation for making avant-garde expressions of Haute Horlogerie. Contemporary materials and finishes are united with traditional craftsmanship and exacting standards. Most notably, sitting at the heart of the firm’s culture is an unwavering pursuit of progress. This philosophy is conveyed with the firm’s motto, ‘The Conquest of Innovation’. This is not merely marketing hyperbole, it is also manifest in the composition of various Cyrus models.
Image – Cyrus Klepcys Alarm
For example, the Klepcys Alarm watch is endowed with a single gong and hammer. While gongs and hammers have been a feature of minute repeaters since the 17th century, they are seldom used within alarm watches. This Cyrus model surpasses the customary shrill of a regular alarm watch, instead delivering a dulcet chime, free of annoyance.
Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon Skeleton Gold
Likewise, in 2018, Cyrus released another highly original creation, the Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon. In this instance, the gravity-defying mechanism, patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, was reimagined by Mojon. Instead of the tourbillon cage, containing the escapement and regulating organ, sitting parallel to the mainplate, it was oriented at 90°. The Cyrus Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon was the first watch to place the tourbillon at the centre of the dial. Again, breaking with convention, the upper tourbillon bridge, arched over the dial, creating a sublime three-dimensional aesthetic.
Cyrus Klepcys DICE collection
In 2021, Cyrus released the inaugural Klepcys DICE, a groundbreaking watch featuring two independent chronograph mechanisms.
Image – inaugural Cyrus Klepcys DICE (2021)
Inevitably, at the time of its launch, comparisons were made with the split-seconds chronograph or rattrapante; however, this was misguided as the DICE (Double Independent Chronograph Evolution) is not the same complication. In the interests of clarity, I will explain the difference.
What is a rattrapante?
A ‘rattrapante’, sometimes termed a ‘split-seconds chronograph’ can measure two elapsed periods that start simultaneously but have different durations. The complication features two coaxial hands, positioned at the centre of the dial, namely, the central chronograph seconds hand and the rattrapante hand. One hand is superimposed over the other, and they both rotate in unison, appearing as a lone hand. Pressing the rattrapante pushpiece, usually located at 10 o’clock, causes the chronograph hand to stop while the rattrapante hand continues to rotate. This allows the wearer to determine the ‘split’, ideal for contrasting the performance of two athletes in the same race.
What is the DICE?
DICE is very different. It features two independent chronograph mechanisms, capable of measuring two intervals independently. Unlike a rattrapante, there is no requirement for both events to start at the same time. Indeed, one chronograph mechanism could be used to time a 400 metre athletics race, while the second mechanism could simultaneously time the period it takes to boil an egg.
However, should the wearer choose to time two athletes competing in the same race, starting at the same time, then the DICE will ably fulfil this requirement. With the advent of DICE, Cyrus produced a chronograph that delivered unrivalled versatility.
Colour coded details
To aid understanding, Cyrus has repeatedly used colour to differentiate one chronograph from the other. With the inaugural model, the Cyrus Klepcys DICE, released in 2021, the luxury marque used a combination of blue and red hues. These colours were employed on the central chronograph hands, the hands on the 30-minute register at 3 o’clock, the minute tracks encircling the openworked dial and the anodised aluminium circlets gracing each crown (one at 3 o’clock and a second at 9 o’clock).
In April 2022, Cyrus released the Klepcys DICE Lime, this time employing green and yellow hues, supplanting the aforementioned shades of blue and red found on the 2021 release. A few months later, in October 2022, Cyrus released the Klepcys DICE Racing, returning to red and blue tones, but on this occasion endowing the model with a carbon fibre bezel.
Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon – introduction
Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders 2023, Cyrus released a new iteration of its innovative Double Independent Chronograph Evolution model, the Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon. As its name suggests, this latest model, once again, features citrus hues and includes a carbon fibre bezel. However, this new addition to the DICE family also incorporates some very significant changes.
Cyrus offers the Klepcys DICE Lime in two versions, one presented on a green Cordura fabric strap and a second fitted on a brushed Grade 5 titanium bracelet. Both references are limited to just 50 pieces each. The Manufacture kindly provided a sample of the bracelet version for a period of hands-on evaluation.
Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon – more than an animation
The watch industry often refers to a new model as an ‘animation’ when the watch features a different dial colour or an alternative shade of strap. Despite first impressions, the Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon is much more than an animation. In fact, this new model encompasses some significant enhancements that are deserving of your attention.
Grade 5 titanium bracelet
As mentioned earlier, my press sample came supplied on a new Grade 5 titanium bracelet, the first time a DICE model has been available on a metal bracelet. However, this is not the first time that Cyrus has used the lightweight alloy.
All previous versions of the Klepcys DICE have been housed in a Grade 5 titanium case, some presented in naked form, while other versions have been dressed in a suit of black DLC.
Grade 5 titanium is composed of almost 90% titanium, 6% aluminium, 4% vanadium as well as traces of iron and oxygen. This should not be confused with cheaper Grade 2 titanium which is almost pure titanium with subtle hints of iron and oxygen. Both materials are not liable to corrode and are hypoallergenic. However, Grade 5 titanium is stronger and it can also be polished to a brilliant gleam.
Appraising the case of the Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon, the Manufacture has endued the housing with a combination of polished and brushed surfaces. In addition, the sides of the case are recessed and feature a microblasted finish. The integrated bracelet also juxtaposes polished and brushed surfaces with both finishes discrete from one another. In fact such is the precise execution of each finish, there isn’t even a suggestion of one section encroaching on its neighbour’s territory.
The bracelet is enlivened with a central row of polished hexagonal links and includes a folding clasp with a polished Cyrus helix logo at its centre. The exhibition caseback features four faceted sides that ergonomically nuzzle the fleshy part of the wrist, while the bracelet encircles the arm gently, without snagging wrist hairs. Quite simply, the Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon proffers superb wearer comfort.
While the Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet combo provide an array of wearer benefits, they present watch brands with a number of technical challenges that have to be surmounted. When the case and bracelet are made, they are processed using a CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machine.
As previously stated, Grade 5 titanium is very hard and strong hence it has a propensity to wear CNC tools more quickly, necessitating replacement and increasing downtime, both factors that heighten costs. Another challenge when milling Grade 5 titanium is that the material can suffer heat damage or even catch fire. To avoid this happening, the milling speeds need to be reduced, extending production times and, once again, increasing costs. Lastly, due to its hardness, Grade 5 titanium is more difficult to polish than 316L stainless steel, a metal widely used in the watch industry. It is for these reasons that machining Grade 5 titanium is far costlier to work with than steel, Grade 2 titanium or gold.
Carbon fibre bezel with inclusions of luminescent material
In October 2022, when Cyrus unveiled the Klepcys DICE racing, it equipped its revolutionary chronograph with a carbon fibre bezel. The making of this lightweight component is protracted; however, as Cyrus has repeatedly shown it is not afraid of the odd challenge or two.
Carbon fibre, supplied in thread form, is cut into lengths, precisely weighed and placed in a mould. Epoxy resin is poured into the mould and then the mixture is subjected to heat and pressure. The random arrangement of the threads imbues each bezel with a unique appearance, a characteristic that is highly prized in the world of luxury.
Now, with the release of the new Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon, Cyrus has gone further. It has added ‘inclusions of luminescent material’. Turn off the lights and the bezel emits numerous speckles of green hue, conferring a unique nocturnal appearance. The hands, indexes and minute track deliver a blue emission in dim light, delivering becoming contrast with the bezel’s neon-like glow.
This may sound like a small detail but it is the sum of these tiny details which engenders ownership delight and, in this instance, differentiates the Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon from many of its pedestrian rivals.
Variable inertia balance
One of the significant upgrades found on this latest version of the calibre CYR718 is the move to a variable inertia balance. Previous versions of the DICE were equipped with an index-regulated balance. With this form of regulation system, the balance spring passes through two curb pins. Moving the curb pins towards or away from the stud alters the effective length of the hairspring, making the watch run faster or slower.
Image – index-adjusted balance
However, the effective length of the hairspring on a variable inertia balance is fixed. The rate is adjusted by moving inertia weights attached to the balance wheel. Traditionally, these weights were in the form of timing screws set within the rim of the balance wheel. As the screws were tightened or loosened it would alter the moment of inertia, again making the watch run faster or slower.
In this instance, Cyrus has mounted c-shaped weights (masselottes) in-board, positioned on the spokes of the balance wheel. By adopting this approach there is less air perturbation, thereby conferring superior precision.
Image – variable inertia balance
When contrasted with the index-regulated balance, the variable inertia balance can be regulated more precisely. Furthermore, should the balance be subject to a shock, the variable inertia balance is less likely to require remedial regulation.
This inevitably raises one question, ‘Why don’t all watches feature a variable-inertia balance?’ Again, it comes back to the matter of time and expertise. An index-regulated balance is far simpler to adjust. With a variable-inertia balance, the opposing pairs of weights have to be adjusted in combination, a tweak here and a turn there. This approach is more labour intensive but then again, that’s what differentiates true luxury from mediocrity.
Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon – closing thoughts
The Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon, in common with its antecedents, delivers an unparalleled degree of versatility. It has the capacity to time not just one event but two. Furthermore, unlike a rattrapante, such events don’t need to start at the same time or be related in any way.
Unquestionably, this latest iteration builds on the excellence of previous DICE models by adding new features that promise to enrich the overall ownership experience.
At the start of this feature, I discussed the influence of culture on the creation of watches. Cyrus has repeatedly shown it does not simply subscribe to watchmaking conventions. On the contrary, it questions, challenges and invents. In fact, the brand’s motto is ‘the conquest of innovation’, an apt sentiment for a company that has shown that it never ceases to pursue horological advancement.
Further reading
Video
Technical specifications
- Model: Cyrus Klepcys DICE Lime Carbon
- Reference: 539.508.TCM.B
- Case: Grade 5 titanium, diameter 42 mm, height 16.5 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to the front and an exhibition case back
- Functions: Central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, 30-minute counter of the double independent chronograph at 3 o’clock, double hands in green and yellow, two central chronograph hands, green hand resets-to-zero at 12 o’clock, yellow hand resets at 6 o’clock
- Movement: Calibre CYR718, self-winding movement, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), 51 jewels, power reserve 55 hours, 443 components
- Strap: integrated bracelet in Grade 5 titanium with polished central hexagonal links and folding clasp with two safety pushers
- Price: CHF 41,300 excluding taxes (RRP as of 13.11.2023)
- Limited Edition: 50 pieces