NOMOS Glashütte Tangente rose gold neomatik Watch Review
The NOMOS Glashütte Tangente rose gold neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte pays homage to the town, the brand calls ‘home’. Housed in a sumptuous 18-carat rose gold case, the model features the brand’s highly regarded in-house movement, the Calibre DUW 3001. US-based Meehna Goldsmith takes a look at this latest expression of German horology.
NOMOS Glashütte watch review
In 1992, NOMOS launched its inaugural watch collection that included the Tangente, Orion, Ludwig and Tetra. From its introduction, the Tangente stood out as a star. While all NOMOS models are inspired by the Bauhaus school of design, the Tangente has always adhered most closely to this aesthetic.
Bauhaus design
Founded in Germany in 1919 by Walter Gropius, the word Bauhaus translates to ‘house of building’. This artistic movement sought to integrate fine art with function to create practical objects. The result was items that were clean, geometric and with little ornamentation. A watch defined by function and utility doesn’t exactly sound like a work of art. But more than creating useful items, the idea behind the Bauhaus movement was to infuse the piece with soul. Interestingly, it was a woman, Susanne Gunther, who conceived and defined the Nomos style language.
Inaugural NOMOS Tangente (1992)
When the Tangente first hit the scene, it was presented in a 35 mm stainless steel round case. Angular lugs hugged the wrist for a comfortable but snug fit, while tempered blue hands were set against a white silver-plated dial with grey detailing. And then there were those graceful, stylised Arabic numerals alternating with batons, bringing the canvas into crisp focus. Later, in 2005, NOMOS called upon the Alpha calibre, a hand-wound movement developed and manufactured completely in-house. The whole picture encompassed beauty, function, and most importantly, soul.
NOMOS 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte series
In honour of Glashütte’s watchmaking tradition, NOMOS produces limited anniversary editions. This year the brand will release a special series of 175 Tangente pieces for the first time in 18-carat rose gold. Although the new Tangente rose gold neomatik hews to the same design codes, it stands out from its brethren not only with the case material but also with the dial presentation.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente rose gold dial
Echoing the rose gold case, a gold-coloured chapter ring and gold-coloured sub-seconds are set against the white silver-plated centre, while 18-carat rose gold hands mark the hours and seconds.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente rose gold neomatik DUW 3001
What also differentiates this 18-carat rose gold edition is the engine. The original was fitted with a hand-wound calibre, but the Tangente rose gold neomatik is equipped with the DUW 3001, a thin and precise automatic calibre with a 43-hour power reserve. While a manual-wind provides a pleasant interaction with the watch, an automatic is more practical and convenient – something the Bauhaus school would most certainly appreciate.
NOMOS Glashütte Tangente rose gold case
When presented over 30 years ago, the Tangente came in a 35 mm case. Today that case size remains the same – and it continues to hit the sweet spot despite persistent industry trends to scale up. As a dress watch, the Tangente is sleek and discreet yet also delightfully arresting when it comes into view. The size works well for both male and female wrists.
Straps, wallets, wrists and closing thoughts
Speaking of wrists, the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente rose gold neomatik is presented on a genuine Horween Shell Cordovan strap. Thick, supple and pretty darn near indestructible, this world-renowned leather is tanned in Chicago. NOMOS also provides a black leather wallet with the watch. Though I expect you won’t have much need for it, as it will surely spend most of its time on your wrist.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Tangente rose gold neomatik – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte
- Reference: 160.S1
- Case: 18K rose gold, diameter 35 mm, height 6.9 mm, water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
- Movement: Calibre DUW 3001, automatic, 27 jewels, power reserve 43 hours
- Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan brown
- Price: £8,600 (RRP as of 13.11.2023)
Images – copyright: NOMOS Glashütte