TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato – Ref CBS2211.FC6545 and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green Ref CBS5011.FC6566 have just been launched in Miami. Both references feature a glassbox sapphire crystal, a column-wheel chronograph and, most notably, a teal green dial. Angus Davies provides an introduction to these latest creations from La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Heuer Carrera released in 1963
Last year, TAG Heuer was in a celebratory mood, marking the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, often to the accompaniment of disco beats. In between grooving on the dance floor and repeatedly singing ‘Happy Birthday’, the avant-garde brand was busy releasing new iterations of the Carrera, the iconic chronograph conceived by Jack Heuer in ’63.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox
At Watches & Wonders 2023, TAG Heuer released two Carrera Chronograph Glassbox models. Both references are housed in a 39 mm steel case, one with a blue dial and the second with a black dial.
Blue dial – Ref CBS2212.FC6535
At first glance, the blue dial resembles a two-register design, but closer inspection reveals an unassuming small seconds display positioned just below the prominently snailed counters. In addition, the dial features a date indication at 6 o’clock.
Black dial – Ref CBS2210.FC6534
The second version of the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox launched at Watches & Wonders 2023, is unequivocally a three-register design. Each counter is snailed and executed in silver, contrasting notably with the adjacent black-hued backdrop. Unlike the blue dial, this model features a date aperture at 12 o’clock, a nod to the Carrera reference 3147 of 1966, commonly termed the ‘Dato’. The overall look of the 2023 release is overtly retro with its old-radium-style SLN, panda dial configuration and perforated leather strap.
Glassbox
Both the blue and black dial variants feature a distinctive glassbox sapphire. The domed sapphire resembles the hesalite crystals of the 70s but with the added benefit of robustness.
TAG Heuer has employed the glassbox inventively by pushing additional indications beyond the extremities of the dial onto the outer flange. The flange slopes downwards towards the caseband and plays host to a tachymeter scale, mitigating dial clutter.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon – Ref CBS5010.FC6543
The Swiss marque also released another ‘novelty’ at Watches & Wonders 2023, the stunning TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon – reference CBS5010.FC6543. As its name suggests, this watch unites a chronograph with an ultra-desirable tourbillon. Housed in a 42 mm steel case, the watch sports a becoming blue dial with an orange central chronograph seconds hand.
The tourbillon counters the adverse influence of gravity on the rate. This is achieved by placing the escapement and regulating organ within a rotating cage that revolves 360° every 60 seconds. The rotation of the cage ameliorates positional errors. A ‘regular’ tourbillon cage is supported by an upper and lower bridge; however, the cage on this model eschews the upper bridge, hence it is referred to as a ‘flying tourbillon’. The benefit of a flying tourbillon is that it confers unhindered views of the balance wheel oscillating to and fro as well as affording sight of the pallet lever repeatedly kissing the escape wheel. Quite simply, this watch delivers a sublime dose of horological theatre.
Once again, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon – reference CBS5010.FC6543 features the aforementioned glassbox glazing.
LVMH Watch Week 2024
This week, Miami plays host to LVMH Watch Week. TAG Heuer, along with some of its fellow LVMH subsidiaries, has topped up its tan while simultaneously unveiling several new models. Indeed, TAG Heuer made a bold statement in Miami, releasing three watches dressed in shades of green, including the Connected Calibre E4 – reference SBR8A14.BT6317 and two mechanical Carrera models decked out in teal green. These latter two models share much in common with the aforementioned releases of 2023 but encompass some new and very interesting details. Allow me to elaborate.
Image – Connected Calibre E4 – reference SBR8A14.BT6317
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato – Ref CBS2211.FC6545
Presented in a 39 mm steel case, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato – reference CBS2211.FC6545 shares much in common with the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox, albeit on this occasion, a crisply marked minuterie supplants the tachymeter scale found on the 2023 releases.
Once again, the watch is equipped with an in-house integrated chronograph movement featuring a column-wheel.
However, the dial of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato differentiates it from its contemporary siblings and, to be honest, just about anything else I can think of.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato and the Ref 3147 (1966)
When Heuer released the inaugural Carrera in 1963, the reference 2447, it was a three-counter design sans date. Three years later, in 1966, the company launched the reference 3147, a two-register arrangement with a date aperture located at 12 o’clock. Containing a Landeron movement, this watch was affectionately referred to by Heuerphiles as the ‘Dato’.
Unlike the reference 3147, the latest TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato presents the date at 9 o’clock. Moreover, the dial features just one counter, positioned at 3 o’clock. The original reference 3147 featured a 45-minute chronograph counter adjacent to the crown, whereas the modern-day watch swaps this for a 30-minute chronograph. Another difference is that the small seconds display found on the reference 3147 has made way for the aforementioned date indication.
In addition to having a teal green complexion, the dial of the Carrera Chronograph Green Dato has been subjected to some serious gentrification. Besides the practical touches such as the highly legible hands and indexes, both incorporating luminescent treatment, the dial is enriched with a circular brushed finish, while the lone counter is adorned with azurage (snailing).
Often in the watch world, we talk about the merits of symmetrical design, a characteristic that TAG Heuer has chosen to reject with this model. At this point, I am somewhat ambivalent about the topography of the dial and, to this end, I intend to reserve judgement until I am able to get hands-on and appraise the watch at close quarters.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green Ref CBS5011.FC6566
Returning to the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon reference CBS5010.FC6543, I was immediately smitten with this watch and readily succumbed to its devilishly handsome appearance.
Now, TAG Heuer has released the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green reference CBS5011.FC6566 and despite swearing undying love to the 2023 release, the teal green dial has won my heart. The circular brushed dial, two-register configuration with snailed detail and the sumptuous black alligator strap are designed to seduce the unsuspecting horophile.
Whereas the 2023 release had orange accents, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green pares back the flamboyance, placing silver-toned elements within the dial’s teal green landscape. The result is a watch that looks slightly more formal than its blue-toned sibling of 2023.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green is also equipped with the same movement as last year’s release, namely the Calibre TH20-09. This movement features a column wheel, a detail much loved by purists, as well as a variable-inertia balance. When contrasted with an index-adjusted balance, a variable-inertia balance proffers superior precision. Furthermore, should the watch be subject to a shock it is less likely to require remedial regulation. The variable-inertia balance is fitted with C-shaped weights, positioned in-board, an approach that mitigates air turbulence, again, aiding precision.
Closing remarks
TAG Heuer has crafted two interesting additions to its hugely successful Carrera collection. The Green Dato is likely to polarise opinion. Its sparsely populated dial may not appeal to some; however, brand devotees may appreciate the courageous styling and the refined circular brushed dial finish. As I mentioned earlier, I wish to reserve judgement until I have worn the watch over several days. In terms of the case, movement and glassbox, there is no question that these components are beyond reproach.
In terms of the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green, the avant-garde brand has knocked it out of the park. The marriage of silver and teal green hues, the refined dial textures and the highly specified movement collaborate to deliver an ultra-desirable ticking ensemble. Indeed, I think this is probably my favourite TAG Heuer to date, which is high praise indeed.
Availability
- TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato – Ref CBS2211.FC6545 – now on sale.
- TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green Ref CBS5011.FC6566 – goes on sale in May 2024
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dato
- Reference: CBS2211.FC6545
- Case: polished steel, diameter 39 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
- Movement: Calibre TH20-07 automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz), power reserve 80 hours
- Strap: black alligator strap. Fine brushed, polished steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons
- Price: £6.000 (RRP as of 29.1.2024)
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Green Dial
- Reference: CBS5011.FC6566
- Case: polished steel, diameter 42 mm, water resistance 10 ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, chronograph: 1/4 second, 30 minutes counter, 12 hours counter, Tourbillon 1 minute
- Movement: Calibre TH20-09 automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 65 hours
- Strap: black alligator leather strap. Fine brushed and polished steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons
- Price: £20,950 (RRP as of 29.1.2024)
