TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 Watch Review
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 is the latest co-branded watch from the two luxury marques. With its ‘Tubular’ skeleton dial and forged carbon bezel, the motorsport influences are clear to see. Interestingly, the brand has bucked the trend by ‘going large’, delivering a welcome alternative to the current trend for smaller case sizes.
TAG Heuer Carrera watch
As any blushing bride will attest, size matters. In the world of watches, 39-40 mm cases are currently on-trend. Looking back 10 to 15 years ago, hockey-puck dimensions were all the rage. However, looking back at the horological catwalks of several decades, it is clear that ticking creations have come in a multitude of shapes, sizes and styles.
In 2023, TAG Heuer, no doubt sensitive to the prevailing market desires, released a new Carrera Chronograph with glassbox glazing in a 39 mm case. I’ve worn this watch on a few occasions and, despite having leviathan-like wrists measuring 19 cm in circumference, I’ve found it looks and feels very at home on my hirsute arm.
However, for any brand to be successful it must always remain attentive to those potential clients who yearn for something different. When it comes to watches, not everyone sits at the centre of the bell curve. This may be due to their physical stature or simply because they have a predilection for either very small or extremely large case sizes. Indeed, one glance at the vintage scene reveals there continues to be widespread interest for 35 – 36 mm case widths.
Now, TAG Heuer has just unveiled a new model, housed in a 44 mm steel case. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 is unapologetically large by modern-day standards and brims with masculinity. It represents the latest co-branded model produced since the two luxury marques entered into a strategic partnership back in 2021.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 dial
The dial of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 is described as a ‘Tubular’ skeleton dial. Its appearance is reminiscent of a space frame chassis, a strong structure underpinning many a race car. It provides small glimpses of the skeletonised date disc below, but doesn’t reveal much more. This is not a criticism, on the contrary, it means that the dial indications remain highly legible.
Consistent with several other Carrera references, the hours and minutes are proclaimed with baton-style hands, lined with white fill. A 30-minute register is located adjacent the crown and a 12-hour register is positioned opposite at 9 o’clock. The hands gracing these registers, along with the central chronograph seconds hand, are executed in an ebullient shade of red.
A small seconds display resides at 6 o’clock, while a small opening below reveals the prevailing date set against a white backdrop. The minute track is mounted on an upper flange which is punctuated with angled indexes. All the indexes are white save for the marker at 4 o’clock which is dressed in red, a reference to the time the 24 Hours of Le Mans race begins. The white detailing found on the hands, indexes, counters and date is dressed in Super-LumiNova and emits a blue emission in dim light.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 case
The case is the product of much time and effort. Formed of steel, it unites polished and fine-brushed surfaces. By way of contrast, the caseband has been milled and dressed in finely-grained black PVD with the name ‘Porsche’ presented in relief.
Looking to the world of motorsport and its fondness for lightweight materials, TAG Heuer has executed the bezel in forged carbon. This ultra-modern material involves cutting lengths of carbon fibre thread, weighing them precisely, placing them in a bespoke mould and adding a specialist resin. The thread and resin mix is then subjected to heat and pressure to form the desired part. As the thread is randomly arranged within the mould, the resultant part has a unique marbled appearance with no two parts looking exactly the same. The bezel is marked with a tachymeter scale and, once again, bears the car marque’s moniker.
The crown, chronograph pushers and black rubber strap are executed in a stealthy shade of black. In between the lugs, just below 6 o’clock, a stainless steel plinth sports three engraved numbers, ‘963’, a nod to this year’s Porsche Le Mans car.
While the watch measures 44 mm in diameter, the lugs don’t project far from the dial. Indeed, measuring 49.7 mm lug-to-lug, the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 wears smaller than its stated diameter would imply.
TAG Heuer Calibre TH20-00
The Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 is fitted with the tried and tested TAG Heuer Calibre TH20-00 (aka Caliber Heuer 02). Visible via the caseback, this automatic movement has also seen service in several other TAG Heuer models, including the aforementioned Carrera Chronograph glassbox 39 mm. An integrated chronograph movement, crafted in-house at the Swiss marque’s Chevenez Manufacture, it unites a column-wheel and vertical coupling, a winning combination beloved by purists. My review of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Panda provides more details about the Calibre TH20-00.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 – closing remarks
As you would expect with TAG Heuer, the dial of the new Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 is a paragon of lucidity, even in the dark. The 44 mm case is rich in detail, incorporating a tasteful blend of finishes and materials. Lastly, as any racing driver knows, the engine is critical to performance and, when it comes to the Calibre TH20-00, TAG Heuer has clearly delivered a winner.
Further reading
Technical specifications
- Model: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963
- Reference: CBU2010.FT6267
- Case: fine brushed steel, diameter 44 mm, water resistance 10ATM (100 metres), sapphire crystal to front, exhibition caseback.
- Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
- Movement: Calibre TH20-00, automatic, frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 33 jewels, power reserve 80 hours
- Strap: black integrated rubber strap, with “963” engraved on a fine brushed, polished steel central link. Fine brushed, polished steel folding clasp with double safety push-buttons; TAG Heuer shield
- Price: £8,050 (RRP as of 16.6.2024)